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Old 06-08-2009   #1
 
penguin's Avatar
 
Tahoe City, California
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Oar mounts: high captain can't get the oars out of drink

Hey all!

Want to thank everybody for answering my question ahead of time. Here's my situation.

I've got an NRS Otter 14' self-bailer with oar frame. From front to back, it's set up like this: (a) flat table with drop bag; (b) open area for captain; (c) cooler (seat); and (d) drybox.

I usually sit on an oar frame seat, which pushes me up 3" above the top of the bar. But for bigger trips I pull the seat and sit on the cooler, and it pushes me about 5-6" above the top of the oar frame. I'm using oar rights and I'm not a feather-paddling kind of guy.

And the problem: the oars whack my legs, or at least shave them very closely when pulled from the water. The geometry just feels all screwed up. The oar shafts are 9.5' long. Now that I'm sitting sky-high on a cooler it's all worse. Note: I can't sit on the table with drop-bag: kids, wife need good seating in this confined boat. Note #2: dry box also sits high, so I can't swap cooler with drybox.

The oar stands are 6" tall, and it looks like both Clavey and NRS offer something around 8" tall. OK. . . another hundred bucks as usual. .

This will help me, I'm sure, but I don't expect it to give me the clearance I really want. 10" would be better.

Do you have any suggestions for me?

Thanks, Penguin

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Old 06-08-2009   #2
 
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Icebox, Colorado
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DRE towers

I have a pair of Down River oar towers that give me about 9 inches when fully extended. I also have a captains’ seat that puts me up high and have had no problems.

How big is your captains’ space? What kind of frame are you using? Do you leverage off of a kick bar? Have you tried moving the towers forward or back?

I have also seen some people with the rainbow towers and they look like the were pretty high... How big are the rainbows?
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Old 06-08-2009   #3
 
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Portland, Oregon
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If you go with the 8" stands you can have someone weld a small section of pipe with spacers on your frame. Relatively cheap and you would still have room to move things around.
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Old 06-09-2009   #4
 
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Boulder, Colorado
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I struggle with these same issues. I don't like tall towers because when pulling the grips get up to high. I ditched the seat to sit as low as possible on the cooler which helps, but I think I still need to raise my towers.

I like the idea of a taller base that allows more height adjustment.
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Old 06-09-2009   #5
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grandyoso View Post
I have a pair of Down River oar towers that give me about 9 inches when fully extended.
My solution too. Your oars may need to be a bit longer, if the handles get too "high" for comfort. Start the "oar geometry hell" music now please!

Also, lots of threads on this, check out the search. This has got to be the second most discussed topic (after making frames).
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Old 06-09-2009   #6
 
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Tahoe City, California
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Thank you everybody for the replies. I feel like I found the right solution:

AAA Inflatables in Denver has the solution for NRS' lack of parts. Their contact information is here http://www.aaainflatables.com/

And the photo is attached. For $100 they'll provide industry-standard hardware that adapts to the NRS frames. You can cut it down to length as you see appropriate. Of course I haven't started to install these and begin the "oar geometery hell" process but at least I feel like I've got a solution that should get me where I need to go. Why NRS hasn't done this I don't know, but I'm more than happy to support the guys in Denver right now.

BTW, the instructions for installing these oar towers are:

(a) Take off oar blade
(b) Sit in boat, on whatever you will sit upon
(c) Hold oars with knuckles about shoulder high
(d) Adjust towers so that end of oar shaft hits ground
(e) Cut off remaining tower that makes this height work for you

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Old 06-09-2009   #7
 
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f) cut too shoort
g) buy new towers and do it again.

Once you get near the right length, experiment in very short increments. yes i have made them too short more than once.
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Old 06-09-2009   #8
 
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A few things come to mind looking at this photo:

1) NRS sells standard 8" oar towers that fit their standard frames - if you've got a NRS frame, why not get some 8" NRS towers and avoid dropping $100 on "industry-standard hardware" to adapt to your frame?
2) There may be a speed-rail type fitting to fit the NRS frame
3) The angle of the oarlock hole seems odd in the photo - I'm accustomed to seing oar locks at the vertical. The setup just looks weird to me.
4) I'd suggest going by Downriver Equip. and talking with them before dropping $100 at AAA.
5) See what some of the other knowlegable folks here have to say on the matter in the next couple of days as well.
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Old 06-09-2009   #9
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy H. View Post
A few things come to mind looking at this photo:

1) NRS sells standard 8" oar towers that fit their standard frames - if you've got a NRS frame, why not get some 8" NRS towers and avoid dropping $100 on "industry-standard hardware" to adapt to your frame?
2) There may be a speed-rail type fitting to fit the NRS frame
3) The angle of the oarlock hole seems odd in the photo - I'm accustomed to seing oar locks at the vertical. The setup just looks weird to me.
4) I'd suggest going by Downriver Equip. and talking with them before dropping $100 at AAA.
5) See what some of the other knowlegable folks here have to say on the matter in the next couple of days as well.
Both the AAA and DRE use speedrail fittings to attach to NRS frame (make sure to order - FOR NRS). The NRS towers don't really give you a solid 8", I'm not sure how they measure that, especially if you have any outward "tip" to your towers the oarlocks won't be that high.

FWIW, once I gave up on the 8" NRS towers, I started with the AAA towers. They have an offset angle to the shaft hole, compared to the tower, and it never let me get things set up right. I switched to DRE and am dialed. I don't know if it is my personal "rigging hell", but it didn't work for where I needed the oarlocks to be (distance apart) for the given oars I use, and want to stay with. I have no idea if anyone else has experienced this, but my frame is pretty wide (double rail with towers on outer-most rail) for my boat.

And you can order the towers extra long, I recommend starting there and cutting, incrementally, less than you think each time. Otherwise you will end up ordering them again, it's amazing how 1" can be way too much!
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Old 06-09-2009   #10
 
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Shoulder High?

Holding your hands shoulder high is too high in my opinion. The power for your strokes are going to come from you chest and you lats.. Pushing with your shoulders and pulling with your traps and other upper back muscles will not generate as much power as chest and lats.

I have the same oar towers but they are from DRE and I have them turned out so they appear more level. Down River has the same set-up but I find them to be A little more expensive.

My .02$
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