oar blades - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 12-27-2009   #1
 
Idaho, Wyoming
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 149
oar blades

anyone tried the cataract razor oar blades? i'm definitley a fan of cataract shafts over the carlisle shafts but when it comes to the blades, i like the cataract magnums mostly because it's an in between size compared to the carlisle sizes but i'm not sure they pay for them selves in the long run as far as cost versus durability. the oar market hasn't changed that much over the years the way boats have. i'm ready for some new oar technology. the choices just don't seem much different than they were 15-20 years ago. anyone see something i've missed?

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Old 12-28-2009   #2
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Baytopia, Colorado
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I have a few razors they are expensive but much much more durable than the magnums or carlisle or polecat blades. the magnums in particular are very brittle and are essentially worthless if you run rocky, lower volume rivers.

this season I am going to try out some wood blades by sawyer. not as expensive as the razors but should outlast the plastic/magnums.

do not buy magnums period unless you only run class III wave trains. also don't buy razors unless you are bill gates. send a message to advanced composites. please make a blade that wont break at the slightest touch of a rock or costs more than the oar shaft itself!
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Old 12-28-2009   #3
 
the fort, Colorado
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concur on the magnums. they break very easily.
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Old 12-28-2009   #4
 
Walterville, Oregon
Paddling Since: 1977
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I am not Bill Gates, but I have not regretted purchasing Razors.

1) Razors are very light compared to most other blades. My oars are long from the tip of the blade to the oarlock and a light blade makes them lighter in my hand. I don't like counter balanced oars.

2) Razors seem durable. I bent a blade pretty severely last summer against the wall in Mule Creek Canyon. I can't see any damage. I considered Sawyer DyneLites but have seen too many of them break.

3) I am a lazy rower. I sometimes don't lift my blades out of the water on the return stroke. The thin profile of the Razor is great for this.

If you have the bucks go for it. I used my old thick foam Cataract blades for 20 years and they are still in good shape. If I get 20 years out of the Razors I will be happy.
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Old 12-28-2009   #5
 
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ww guide/ frame builder/welder, mobile fabrication gig
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been on sticks for a bit, 20+years, and decided( before builing another one) after drawing the new frame with kiddie chalk in the drive way, i would rent. rented a frame from REO, and went with counter balanced sawywers, graphite/composite shaft, with wood blades......and they were wicked great, if it hadn't been for pilot error, i would not have this great wood blade as a reminder of my..hick-up.

why do you not like counter balanced blades?/ oars?

OB~
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Old 12-30-2009   #6
 
Walterville, Oregon
Paddling Since: 1977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oarbender View Post
why do you not like counter balanced blades?/ oars? - OB~
1) Even though counter balanced oars are not tip heavy, I can feel the mass of the weight in the handle. Like I said, I am a lazy rower and don't like moving 4 lbs of lead or iron back and forth. I would rather use shorter oars or lighter blades.

2) I have found too many counter balanced oars in there river. If they fall in the river they float vertically, if at all, which increase the chance of the handle or shaft wedging in the bottom and pulling the oar down.
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Old 01-04-2010   #7
 
Idaho, Wyoming
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mania View Post
I have a few razors they are expensive but much much more durable than the magnums or carlisle or polecat blades. the magnums in particular are very brittle and are essentially worthless if you run rocky, lower volume rivers.

this season I am going to try out some wood blades by sawyer. not as expensive as the razors but should outlast the plastic/magnums.

do not buy magnums period unless you only run class III wave trains. also don't buy razors unless you are bill gates. send a message to advanced composites. please make a blade that wont break at the slightest touch of a rock or costs more than the oar shaft itself!
mania,
what is the model of sawyer wood blades you are going to try, are they compatible with cataract or carlisle shafts? i'm primarily fishing in up to class III with occasional whiterwater trips up to c IV. they won't see much for high velocity impact but a lot of low velocity abrasion. my problems have been chipping and breaking, not bending.
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