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Old 03-22-2009   #41
 
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Grab a glass and sit down—

Nice job. Looks super-stout and a real load hauler.

NRS sets up their yoke-less cat frames with those long drop bars with 90° bends. Always looked to me like they could use a couple spreader bars to box the low end and reduce the leverage on the upper fittings.

Those flat plate/flange thingies on your front platform— do they attach to the curved drops with u-bolts?

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Old 03-22-2009   #42
 
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Yes, they use NRS's flattened u-bolts (long). They attach just past the 90 on the horizontal part of the drop bar. They are a pretty close rip off of NRS spreader bars, just with 1.66 od round instead of square tube. Had to use hollaender's modular tee's so the bar could be retained when the platform is removed. Seems pretty stout when I had the frame on blocks. By the way , I wanted to say thanks for starting the thread and sharing so much info, I've really enjoyed the read! Those oarlocks look sweet. Wish NRS made some with double u-bolts.
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Old 03-22-2009   #43
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Mttodd, looks nice. Looks like someone is a good welder too and has lot of tools. sweet. I love this thread too. Chip did you weld the oar mounts, the welds look kind of weird on the photos. Did you grind the beed down? The design looks good. A little more refinement and I think they could easily be a seller. Mttodd, do you build dry boxes for a living? they look really nice.
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Old 03-22-2009   #44
 
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I had a pro (let's call him the Gougemeister) do the welds. They were uneven and blobbed out at the ends, so I did a bit of filing and grinding— still way short of perfection.

If I had a MIG welder and simple machine tools, I could whip 'em out. But I like the design/scrounge/hack & file/prototype action best.

As opposed to do-the-same-f-ing-thing-forty-nine-times-a-day-and-barely-break-even.
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Old 03-23-2009   #45
 
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I do some work for a local boat shop, mostly oddball aluminum projects. Copied osprey/cascade outfitters drybox design. I can't build them cheap enough to be competitive. Maybe someday. Just like building stuff. Paid a couple grand for the TIG so I could save money on a frame. Gear/tool junkie. Character flaws abound. Too bad the meister hit you so hard for the ugly welds, chip, don't care how nice his dogs are you shouldn't have to clean up for that price. Still turned out looking slick. You could definitely sell those things.
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Old 03-23-2009   #46
 
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Gee, maybe chip needs to make a trip up to Billings for a frame building party. It's not very far away!!!! Yes, leave it to me to invite one person to another person's house!
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Old 03-23-2009   #47
 
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Gotta Stop Watching PULP FICTION—

Damn, Boatwoman— frame-buildin' is some serious shit. Make a party of it? Not me. I walk in the path of the righteous. More or less.

Mttodd— what's the diff between a MIG and a TIG? (I know that IG = inert gas.)

If you want to make similar oarstands, fine with me. Minimum tools for production, I reckon, would be a bandsaw, milling machine, drillpress, and welder.

One improvement that occurred to me is to size u-bolts for popular tubing diameters and drill matching holes in the bases ( o----o-o-o ) so that a single stand would work with different size frames by changing the u-bolts: a universal fit. That's something I've not seen anyplace.

If you're keen, give it a go. (Also, can I get you to do some welding if I ship the pieces?)

cheers, Chip
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Old 03-24-2009   #48
 
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Would be glad to give a go at whatever you need welded. T in tig and M in mig represent the type of electrode used to transfer the arc, tungsten in the case of tig , metal in the case of mig. Mig is wire feed, either steel or aluminum, and the arc is transmitted through the wire that is continuously fed from the spool of wire either in the machine or in a spool gun. The metal is melted and carried across the arc and deposited on the work. Tig uses a tungsten rod in a hand held torch that produces a pure electrical arc to the base metal, to which filler rod is added and mixes to produce the bead. This used to be called heli-arc, when helium was used as a shielding gas. Tig is a lot slower and somewhat more delicate a process but the end result is much stronger and pleasing to the eye. Would be glad to give my address or phone #.
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Old 03-24-2009   #49
 
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Cool! I'll drop you a PM.

Laura— just kidding of course. Get a bunch of SpeedRail joints and a tubing cutter and invite me over.

Also, beer.
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Old 03-24-2009   #50
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I must make a small comment on MIG vs TIG. TIG gives much more control of the weld and penetration (especially for aluminum) and can make welds with deeper penetration in thicker/larger pieces with less power and is peferred for thicker aluminum, and makes a nicer looking weld, however, for fairly thin material such as with 1.25 nps 6061 T-6 or thin dry box material MIG gives plenty of penetration and in such material and would be plenty strong. But TIG would probably look nicer in the hands of an experienced welder.
my 2 cents on the subject.
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