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Old 11-18-2014   #181
 
elkhaven's Avatar
 
Belgrade, Montana
Paddling Since: 1991
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,191
Unfortunately most of the waterways I work on are small, 10-20' wide and +/- a foot of depth, 2 at the most so I don't think those systems would be ideal, plus they're probably spendy. Damn, there's no magic solution....yet.

I think we posted right about the same time or I wouldn't have reiterated the link request...

Thanks for posting and good luck with your own research! I see many hours on the banks of streams for you, nice going!

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Old 08-15-2019   #182
 
Calgary, Alberta
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 588
Bumping an old thread since the content in here is useful to new frame builders and I've been playing around with materials for a new frame build.

Like Chip had said in earlier posts, I was looking for an way to build a cheap frame with readily available parts and wanted to see what works with what I have available to me.

I wanted to try 1.25" EMT because it's close to NRS pipe dimensions for using those fittings and because it's thicker walled than 1 3/8" chain link toprail.

Lowpros do nest inside 1.25" EMT but you need to file down the seam ridge a little inside the conduit for it to go.

I also tried attaching an nrs oar tower on the EMT (16 guage, 0.065" wall thickness) with a bit of vinyl tubing to take up a little space (due to the smaller OD of the EMT compared to the sched 40 aluminum). I wanted to see if the EMT deformed when you tighten down the u bolt... and it does deform a little, but when I removed the oar lock the EMT returned to it's old dims... seemed to be within the elastic properties of the conduit.

I tightened the u bolt enough that I'm pretty sure it wouldn't spin but I'm not positive... and it's possible if you tightened it more you could exceed the elastic effect of the metal and crimp it a little... not positive.

Also worth noting is that because lowpros (1 3/8" shank) fit inside EMT, so will standard 1 3/8" 6061 aluminum round bar available from local and online metal shops. You can cut round bar yourself on a miter saw with a carbide blade, and if you cut 6" sections to use as dowels between EMT elbows and the pipe (3" in each side), you could bolt it together easily and more cheaply than an NRS frame with parts that are relatively easily available locally.

In the end it's cheaper for me to use 1" EMT elbows inside 1 3/8" toprail so I'm going to go that way, but its thinner walled (17 guage, 0.054" thick) and too small diameter for NRS oar towers... so I'm going to cut an 18" piece of sched 40 aluminum and sleeve it over the side rails and bolt it in place so it doesn't spin.

The EMT nests I side the toprail very snugly, but the toprail has a bit of play inside the aluminum... but I figure it's close enough and the bolts should be plenty strong enough.

I'll try to post pics later when I do the build.
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Old 08-15-2019   #183
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by cupido76 View Post
You can cut round bar yourself on a miter saw with a carbide blade

I've had good results cutting aluminum with cheap stock wood blades. Round stock on the miter and flat stuff on the table saw. I also use a wood router.
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Old 08-16-2019   #184
 
Calgary, Alberta
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 588
Here's what I built for a light weight day frame. I want a minimal and more narrow frame to run shorter oars to hit smaller streams. I may eventually buy a mini raft to but this on.

1" EMT elbows inside chainlink toprail. Pins will be replaced by bolts when my stainless bolt order arrives. A 12", 1 1/4" sched 40 aluminum sleeve overtop of the side rails so I can use NRS oar towers.

56" wide by 40" long. I plan to sit on the boat thwarts and really just want a cage for the oars... but may add a simple flat seat if that doesn't work out. If I want to add cargo capacity I'll make a trailer frame using the same method.

It weighs 15 pounds without oarlocks and it cost me about about $60 Canadian (maybe $45 US) from readily available local sources.Click image for larger version

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Old 08-16-2019   #185
 
Calgary, Alberta
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 588
I also built this cheap jig to centre my bolt holes in the toprail at 1.5" from the end (in the middle of the 3" overlap between the the EMT and toprail) out of scrap wood I had lying around.Click image for larger version

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