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Flocculant for settling water. Any chem majors out there?

21K views 52 replies 25 participants last post by  Avatard 
#1 ·
Trying to avoid having water sit overnight to settle,to maximize life of water filter carbon filters. One of the methods is to add a Flocculant to get the particles to clump and fall to the bottom

Will probably use a 5 mil bag filter for first stage following flocculation. Plus the bag can easily be washed and reused

I've heard use alum but don't think it's a good thing to add unless it comes out with carbon filtration ( like bleach does ). I'm afraid of introducing aluminum into water supply

Also read chitosan if you don't have allergies to shellfish. Seems like this would be the most natural method. Any idea where I could get some in useful and economical quantities?
 
#2 ·
I've always just let water settle overnight, then decant into clean buckets to pump. Alum adds a funny taste to water, so we try to avoid using it as much as possible. I think I've used alum once in my three seasons working in the southwest. Admittedly not that long, but it gives an idea. You may not have wanted that answer as you were specifically looking for info on flocculants.
 
#3 ·
The pulp from Prickly Pear Cactus is a natural flocculant, that will settle the sediment fairly well. You have the problem of bits of the pulp floating around in the water but just strain it through a bandanna and you get clear water ready to filter. I have used it in its natural raw state mashed up, but i remember reading an article once about boiling the pads to extract the musalege which became a very effective flocculent and even had properties that helped with purification. They were doing studies to help with water supply in developing countries.
 
#4 ·
I've heard use alum but don't think it's a good thing to add unless it comes out with carbon filtration ( like bleach does ). I'm afraid of introducing aluminum into water supply
The aluminum (as alum) ends up mostly in the mud at the bottom of the bucket - it's a flocculent after all.
Don't sweat the Al exposure, just think of what you put your lips against for every sip of your PBR.
Good alum use methodology can be found at Drifter Smith on Alum Alum Use - Grand Canyon Private Boaters Association
Jerry
 
#5 ·
ditto to malloypc- alum is generally used in US water treatment facilities, so if you drink city water, you're probably already being exposed to it. Also, it's a main ingredient used in pickling, so if you eat pickles...

The prickly pear method sounds really interesting though.
 
#8 ·
I've never used Alum myself, but have read that it work best if you mix it into a smaller size bottle, shake hard, then pour that into the buckets you want to settle.

Also, did you find that filter bag set up with the ring and strap to hang it, or is that a self modification. I'd buy one of those if I knew where to look.
 
#13 ·
#12 ·
The alum method works very well once you dial in the chemistry. It depends on a number of factors; PH, particale size, temerature of the water, etc. Once you figure it out for your paticular river water you can go from mud to crystal clear in about 5 minutes.

As others have pointed out this is the most comom method used by municiple water treatment plant in the USA, so it's safe to drink when done correctly.

Here is link for good, detailed instructions; written by a water sanitation engineer...
Water Treatment for Rafters

I carry both alum and hydrated lime for adjusting PH, the whole kit takes up less space than your salt and pepper.
 
#14 ·
This isn't as easy as it should have been. It turns out that the newer types of filter bags are pretty expensive. I suspect that the hepa filter bags are too restrictive for this and would plug up too quickly. Mine is simple cloth, probably dacron or some other synthetic (I say that because in the 35 years I've had it, it hasn't rotted). It is a heavier material than a typical shirt, but not as heavy as Levi 501s. Maybe you can work with a vacuum dealer with that description and find something that works. Or maybe you'll have to make your own out of a pair of synthetic blue jeans. Of everything I found on line, this looks the most like what I have (and it is also the cheapest). Cloth Bag for Star Power Hi-Performance Systems [FI909] - $29.99 : Central Vacuum Factory It's quite a bit larger than what I have, but I've always heard that size doesn't matter. And you'll have to attach your own strap to it.
 
#16 ·
This isn't as easy as it should have been. It turns out that the newer types of filter bags are pretty expensive. I suspect that the hepa filter bags are too restrictive for this and would plug up too quickly. Mine is simple cloth, probably dacron or some other synthetic (I say that because in the 35 years I've had it, it hasn't rotted). It is a heavier material than a typical shirt, but not as heavy as Levi 501s. Maybe you can work with a vacuum dealer with that description and find something that works. Or maybe you'll have to make your own out of a pair of synthetic blue jeans. Of everything I found on line, this looks the most like what I have (and it is also the cheapest). Cloth Bag for Star Power Hi-Performance Systems [FI909] - $29.99 : Central Vacuum Factory It's quite a bit larger than what I have, but I've always heard that size doesn't matter. And you'll have to attach your own strap to it.
Interesting, I may have to play around with various fabric parts and pieces I've saved over the years. I have some poly stuff, maybe even the bag from the boat/car cover? That is what the one I posted sort of looks like. $30 doesn't sound that bad in the grand scheme of things for a GC trip. I agree, a HEPA bag would never work (constantly plug and maybe not even flow), even in their normal application they need prefilters and gravity may not be enough power to push the water through (think how much force a vac blower has).
 
#17 ·
No, I think the heavy wire ring at the top would have trouble in a washing machine. I have never done anything more than rinse it in the river. After all, if you're making drinking water you still have to run it through the ceramic filter. The bag doesn't have to be (and can't possibly be) sterile.
 
#19 ·
You could try DT (diatomaceous earth), a 5 gal bucket, an old sheet, and a inner tube rubber band. It's not a floculant but more of a filler. We use to use this back in the early 70's. If the river is running blood red it's a good idea to let it settle for about an hour or so. It also helps to have an outlet near the bottom of the bucket about and inch or so above the bottom. Method. Put the sheet over the top, hold in place with the inner tube rubber band, throw in a hand full of DT add water and let it work it's way through. Have it drain into another 5 gal bucket.
 
#22 ·
I ordered this one, Cloth Bag for Star Power Hi-Performance Systems [FI909] - $29.99 : Central Vacuum Factory, and received it yesterday. I had tried to find one locally after reading another thread before going on The Grand this winter, but that ended up being more difficult that anticipated. Not a lot of central vac people in Colorado and the one I found didn't have a store/office.

The one I received is not red as pictured on the website. More of a natural cotton color. The material is canvas like. The hoop is flexible, likely plastic not metal. Look forward to trying it out on the next trip. Hoping for no more sandy dishes! Will report back then if nobody else has.
 
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