dry-rotted valve boots - Mountain Buzz

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Old 03-23-2012   #1
funkins's Avatar
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2005
Join Date: Jun 2005
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dry-rotted valve boots

I need to limp my old Hyside through a few more seasons. All 4 valve boots (military valves) are dry-rotted to the point where I don't trust them on a multiday trip.

Trying to decide what to do...

Option 1: cut out old boots, install new boots with same military valves

Option 2: cut out old boots, install C7s over the cut out section using the donut patches

Option 3: cut out old boots, patch over the hole, install C7s a few inches away from the patch.

Anyone have experience/advice for any of these options?

Drew J.
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Old 03-23-2012   #2
montrose, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1999
Join Date: Jul 2009
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I would use option 2 or 3 with an inside and outside patch. Lining up an inside dognut patch with an outside dognut can be tricky, but You can do it.

Contact adesives, like shore, are the prefered glue for hypalon, but stabond is supposed to work on hypalon as well. With stabond you can let the glue dry completly, position your inside and out side patches exactly where you want them, and then reactivate the glue with heat (a pot of boiling water placed on top works great). I have used this method several times on pvc or urethane boats, but I have never used stabond on hypalon, so you may want to confirm my understanding that stabond is compatible with hypalon. Trying to get an inside patch with tacky contact adhesive on it positioned right where you want it before it grabs can be pretty hard.

JPW has some great instructions for reactivation with heat on there website. The glue they are refering to (clifton ur 1087) is not compatible with hypalon, but it reactivates with heat in the same way as stabond.

Make sure that you put the backer nut inside the boat BEFORE you start gluing and put some wax paper in the tube under your work area to prevent the tube from gluing to itself. You can get this out throught the valve hole after your done.
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Old 03-23-2012   #3
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Barnard(Marshall), North Carolina
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mike is dead on. I did option 2-cut out the old boot, inserted vavle nut and some plastic sheeting with a string tied to the corner and ran out the hole. I then applied glue to both my donut patches, let them dry positioned them inside and out and reactivated them with a heat gun-been holding great for a year. I used stabond hypalon adhesive. I haven't ever tried gluing in a rubber boot, but after removing the old one it seams like a whole lot of cleanup and prep work and higher cost compared to the c7 donuts.
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Old 03-24-2012   #4
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Spot on advice above. Stabond works great for hypalon. Option 2 would be ideal. If you want the valves somewhere else on the boat, a revised version of option 3 would be fine. No reason to move them a couple inches, but if you want them on the ends, seal up the holes with an inside/outside and put them wherever you want. If i move the valves to a new spot, i always put an inside donut to support the valve. As with most any job, prepwork is key to success. Oh, dont put your face right over the hole when you are gluing the inside. Have fun.
zach baird
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