So im looking at a crossover boat thats made by liquid logic (remix xp10). Supposably you can use for on the lake and has plenty of room for camping gear so i could just float down the river and just camp at any spot i see. I wanna mostly do river running but having something that works great on a lake is definately a plus, but my question is how would this affect how the boat does on white water, should i just stay with a boat designed for just one thing? If i bought a remix 69 would camping gear fit in the boat? Would it affect the stability? P.S. im 6'4'' 180lbs
I have an xp 9. It has been on several class 3 runs I have camped out of it. Handles both well. Highly recommend the boat. I have a set of wildwasser dry/flotation bags I put into the nose for tent and I sleeping pad. The xp rolls very easy as well I learned to roll in mine. Only down side I've found is the dry hatch isn't fully dry so dry sacks are required. I hope this helps.
Side note you still have to know how to pack good. The liquidlogic crew run the Grand with the xp 10 self supported. That ought to speak to volumes a about the boats capabilities
I've got an XP10. So far, on Filter Plant at very high water, it handles well. It takes on the big waves, surfs decently, and is extremely stable. It also rolls very easily. This next week, I'll be giving it the big test with gear on the Yampa. This past weekend, I took out the hatch components and put down sealant on both sets of plastic that come in contact with the boat. Tested it today on the Poudre. Not a perfect solution, but there was definitely less water in the hatch. Also took out the screws and bolts that hold the elastic bands and put sealant there as well. Most of the leakage now comes from the sprayskirt area. Need to create a better seal between the skirt and cowling. Got to agree w/ Shonuff about the need for good drybags.
I'm 6' 3" and 280ish. It's a very comfortable big volume boat. I suggest making sure to get the footpegs locked in well. I've had them pop off twice while putting pressure on them when I didn't put them in quite right. Did I mention that the boat is big? I can imagine boaters of smaller stature having difficulties with their knees popping out of the knee brace area. It's happened to me while surfing.
Hkydef only leakage I had was the hatch. Drybags solve problem. Any leakage around cockpit I would contribute to skirt issues. I personally use randed skirts so maybe bungee skirt is the problem. Any water that enters hatch is minimal nothing to discount totally the boat. As I said I paddle a xp9 so have no experience with the 10. If you want to to run whitewater and camp out of same kayak I recommend the Remix xp 100%.
I have to admit I was a little skeptical of a crossover but it looks like a pretty cool design. I assume that the skeg can be locked into the boat to get it out of the way in whitewater.
All kayaks leak some thru the skirt if you're in water that goes over the deck, so dry bags are a necessary part of any overnight style trips.
I have done many self-support trips in my Remix 69 (for example; Illinois River in Or., Deer Ck. in Ca. among others) If you're a good packer...4 days of gear/food is tight but doable. It could use a little more stern volume (rear enders in big holes in class 4/5 are not uncommon with lots of weight in the back) so for my next boat I'll get something with a little more room. ( I'm looking at Nomad 8.5, LL Stomper or Prijon Pure XL) I'm 5'11" and 185#'s.
If you plan on class 3 or less though LL xp's look great
I have to admit I was a little skeptical of a crossover but it looks like a pretty cool design. I assume that the skeg can be locked into the boat to get it out of the way in whitewater.
All kayaks leak some thru the skirt if you're in water that goes over the deck, so dry bags are a necessary part of any overnight style trips.
This really won't be a "great" lake boat -- I suggest you rent one and put it on a lake. I guess if you are paddling leisurely/alone (no need to keep up with others on lake boats)/and not for long distances, you might be okay. Boats designed for lakes have more of a V bow and cut through the water rather than push it. I demoed an XP10 on flat moving water and my friends could hear me coming -- pushing the water. Fortunately, I have a dedicated lake boat, so wouldn't require an XP to do that. An XP for the combination of moving flat water and whitewater seems like a better range. Just saying you oughtta try it to be sure you're okay with it.
Ooops -- I posted this after reading only page 1. Enjoy the boat!
I own a xp10 and a dagger approach 10. I think the xp10 is a way more stable and better built boat. I only do class 2+ for now. only down side I see is the boat feels heavy and sluggish. like riding a big log down river. it will make any fool look talented : )
I just bought a Remix XP10 a few weeks ago, my first kayak. I've been paddling a solo canoe for the past 11 years on mild rivers (Class I/II & very light Class III), so I was a little worried about crossing over to the dark side. So far I'm really liking the XP10, even though I haven't really paddled it on anything over Class I/II to date. The boat is definitely super stable and easy for me to handle.
With the skeg down it tracks well on flat water, it does push water more than a touring/ocean style boat, so it won't be near as efficient. We paddled 16 miles on a Class I river last weekend, the last six miles being completely flat with a strong wind blowing up river....just dropped the skeg and let it rip .
I haven't learned to roll yet, but I'll be there soon enough. I plan on sticking with Class III and under river running, so it should do fine for me. With the skeg up the boat spins easy. I'm on the line as far as recommended size, so I'm sure I would have been fine with the XP9, but the 10 works well for me so far so no worries.
I got to try out my new 210cm Werner Stikine paddle last weekend and the length worked well with the width of the boat.
The only issue I see is that the skeg lever allows some water to drip into the cockpit, but I fixed that last night with the addition of two small rubber O-rings, let water set in the lever recess overnight and doesn't leak at all now.....$0.10 fix.
Brief report. Did the Yampa/Green a couple of weeks ago at flows of around 9-10,000. Also paddled the Bridges run on the Poudre at 3.9 and 3.5 recently. This boat (XP10) is stable. Big time. It floats like a cork, even when loaded to near/over the 300 lb. weight limit. The boats volume and short length allow it to ride up the face of waves instead of driving through them. It ferries very nicely and holds its line. It also front surfs very well and is a lot of fun on bigger waves. Since I sealed the hatch and screw holes, leakage has ceased to be a problem. One of my concerns is the plastic on plastic foot peg track. I've applied pressure, when needed, and occasionally a foot peg will come out of its track. It's disconcerting to say the least. Also, since the skeg is always down a little bit (1-2 inches), I've taken to duct taping the skeg into its slot in an attempt to increase the turning ability. To be honest, I don't really notice that much difference with the skeg taped in. At lower, rockier river levels I'd be concerned about breaking the skeg off. Overall, I'm very pleased with the boat.
Also, since the skeg is always down a little bit (1-2 inches), I've taken to duct taping the skeg into its slot in an attempt to increase the turning ability.
That's interesting because my skeg stays fully retracted up inside the hull. I wonder if there's any adjustment in the skeg cable, or if it's possibly stretched some?
If not, you can possibly shorten the cable length to get the skeg to fully retract?
Maybe this will help:
I am a LL dealer and have adjusted the skeg closure depth many times on Versa boards, Coupes and XPs. Because the skeg on your XP is controlled bya a cable, it will stretch like the brake cable on your bike. This can be adjusted by removing the nut holding the cable on the deployment lever. then pull your skeg out. you can loosen an allen set screw on a little brass cable stop which plugs into the skeg. There is a little trial and error here, but its pretty easy. Liquidlogic used to have a video on their website that walked you through it.
With a little time, you can pull the skeg back to fully retracted where it should be.
Maybe this will help:
I am a LL dealer and have adjusted the skeg closure depth many times on Versa boards, Coupes and XPs. Because the skeg on your XP is controlled bya a cable, it will stretch like the brake cable on your bike. This can be adjusted by removing the nut holding the cable on the deployment lever. then pull your skeg out. you can loosen an allen set screw on a little brass cable stop which plugs into the skeg. There is a little trial and error here, but its pretty easy. Liquidlogic used to have a video on their website that walked you through it.
With a little time, you can pull the skeg back to fully retracted where it should be.
On the rear bags I clipped the two front rings together with a miniture carabiner.
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