9ft Oars on a 14ft Otter? - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 06-15-2010   #1
 
Grand Junction, CO
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9ft Oars on a 14ft Otter?

Quick question, what are your opinions on using 9ft oars on a 14ft NRS Otter and a "compact outfitter" frame? It's going to be used on everything from smaller rivers for fishing to bigger runs on the Colorado, Yampa, etc.

Thanks- G

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Old 06-15-2010   #2
 
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Niwot, Colorado
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I've been using 9ft oars on an Otter 140. The double rail frame I have is 74" wide. I just put in an order for oar extensions because I don't feel the oars are long enough.
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Old 06-15-2010   #3
 
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https://www.mountainbuzz.com/forums/f...tml#post189909

Try also searching oar length, tons of threads on it. With a skinny frame, (are you sitting down on the frame, or up on a drybox/cooler), and if you are sitting down on the frame, you might be OK. My gut tells me 9.5'.
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Old 06-15-2010   #4
 
Durango, Colorado
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i have a 2000 model 14' by 7' NRS boat with 20" tubes and perfer to row with 10ft oars instead of 9ft, have not rowed to many narrow rivers though... i think the 9ft oars would be better for this
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Old 06-15-2010   #5
 
Thronton, Colorado
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I have the Otter myself, and have both 9' and 10' oars. My 9' oars are my spares, but they do seem too short. I prefer the 0' oars. I ordered the oar extensions, but haven't used them yet. I see them on the river all the time, so I imagine they work fine. Not much to go wrong really, other than the little button letting them fall off, but I guess that could happen with the blades themselves too. They'll still be my spares even with the extensions (the spares are Carlisles, my 10' ers are Cataracts), but I think they are a better size for the Otter.
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Old 06-15-2010   #6
 
Grand Junction, CO
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FWIW, my frame width is 66". I'm sitting on top of the drybox, abut four inches above the frame. I've been rowing with 10-footers but can't get the geometry worked out. They either cross on the inside, catch my PFD or are way outside the 1/3 inside the boat guideline.
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Old 06-16-2010   #7
 
Thronton, Colorado
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I don't worry about the 1/3 "rule". I just set them so there is about 2 inches between them at the closest point and had the counterweights installed to jelp with weight distribution. I'd have to measure to see how close they are to the 1/3 rule, but I like them they way they are. I guess rules are meant to be broken... LOL

It's different for everyone, so play around and see if you can get something that works for YOU. That's one good thing about extensions, it gives some flexibility in trying different configurations.
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Old 06-16-2010   #8
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scary Mc View Post
FWIW, my frame width is 66". I'm sitting on top of the drybox, abut four inches above the frame. I've been rowing with 10-footers but can't get the geometry worked out. They either cross on the inside, catch my PFD or are way outside the 1/3 inside the boat guideline.
I'm not sure about width, but are your towers tall enough, tilted out enough? I HATE the PFD catch issue. You can also try moving the towers forward, it's amazing how little a forward move allows you to push your oars inside the locks. I just did that on my cat, less than 1" forward and it transformed the balance, weight, and power of my oars. They had been too long outside the towers, and FWIW my cat towers aren't tiltable. Keep fiddling, you'll get it, but it can be a pain getting there!
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Old 06-16-2010   #9
iratehippie
 
Cave Junction, Oregon
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I have a 14' sotar and use 9.5' oars(wood). I also got the taller of the towers that NRS sells, and tipped them out so oarlock is parallel with the edge of the tube. I used to sit on my drybox, 4 inches higher than the tubes. On the colo/grand canyon, this proved to be wrong and I made a seat that sits on the frame/tube high, a real difference in the way I could handle the boat. I set my oars to have about 4" when the handles pass in the middle.
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Old 06-16-2010   #10
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iratehippie View Post
I have a 14' sotar and use 9.5' oars(wood). I also got the taller of the towers that NRS sells, and tipped them out so oarlock is parallel with the edge of the tube. I used to sit on my drybox, 4 inches higher than the tubes. On the colo/grand canyon, this proved to be wrong and I made a seat that sits on the frame/tube high, a real difference in the way I could handle the boat. I set my oars to have about 4" when the handles pass in the middle.
That makes sense to me. To sit up on my cooler I had to buy taller towers (taller than either NRS) which I think pushed me up to the 10' oars. Even the tall NRS ones don't seem to be enough when sitting up on anything.
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