Trailer Tires/Wheel and hub advice? - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 07-12-2010   #1
 
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Trailer Tires/Wheel and hub advice?

We got home last night and discovered (by this screaming metal sound backing into the driveway) that one hub on the trailer seems to have blown out. I think we're kind of lucky to have made it home without a problem. Amazingly we heard and felt nothing, maybe it finally went just before home. Could we be so lucky?

So now we're venturing into trailer hub repair, something neither of us have done, and thought some rad techies on the Buzz could point us in the right direction. I'm thinking that we might as well replace both, with waterproof seals, so we're good to go for a while. The trailer is only 2 years old, but was what we thought a pretty beefy trailer regarding the clearance and wheel size. Not like that matters for the quality of what is inside it, but it's not a teeny-tiny wheel thing and so we thought it was a bit more durable. Seems not.

I suppose a bent axle is a possibility?

Does anyone have any advice, a direction to point us in?

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Old 07-12-2010   #2
 
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Originally Posted by lhowemt View Post
We got home last night and discovered (by this screaming metal sound backing into the driveway) that one hub on the trailer seems to have blown out. I think we're kind of lucky to have made it home without a problem. Amazingly we heard and felt nothing, maybe it finally went just before home. Could we be so lucky?

So now we're venturing into trailer hub repair, something neither of us have done, and thought some rad techies on the Buzz could point us in the right direction. I'm thinking that we might as well replace both, with waterproof seals, so we're good to go for a while. The trailer is only 2 years old, but was what we thought a pretty beefy trailer regarding the clearance and wheel size. Not like that matters for the quality of what is inside it, but it's not a teeny-tiny wheel thing and so we thought it was a bit more durable. Seems not.

I suppose a bent axle is a possibility?

Does anyone have any advice, a direction to point us in?
Sounds like bearings and potentially the chases (the part that wears against the bearings. They are not too hard to replace if you're comfortable mechanically. If you take weight off the wheel try moving it side to side. It shouldn't move that way, but if it does...bearings are loose and potentially shot. Use a screwdriver to take off the hub, there will be a pin holding a large bolt on, remove the pin and the bolt should come off easily, when that bolt is out you can remove the whole wheel and hub. You can remove the wheel and tire from the hub and take the whole hub assembly to a good parts shop and they can recommend if parts or a whole new hub makes the most sense. Sometimes it is not much more money and a lot less work just to replace the whole hub assembly. Good luck.
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Old 07-12-2010   #3
 
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do you have a greasable hub? zirc fitting behid a rubber seal? if not depending on your axle size 2000 lb axles are 150 bucks all the way to the wheel nuts. best bet fastest fix. if you have a tandem axle floater, you might just do the bearings. EASY diy's on the google search. a no brainer.
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Old 07-12-2010   #4
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Not to be a smart ass, but it's bearings and races, not chases.

I repack my bearings once a year and always carry a spare hub and bearings. It's pretty cheap insurance.

It's also my opinion that grease zircs on wheel bearings don't get the grease where it needs to be. I hear many stories of bearing failure with "bearing buddies", as they are sometime called.

I never let my axles get submerged when loading/unloading my rafts.

Any trailer or even auto shop can easily fix your problem. The problem may be getting the trailer there. Depends on have bad the situation is, but I wouldn't drive too far or too fast.
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Old 07-12-2010   #5
 
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No idea what kind of bearings/hub we have, yet. Here are some photos, it doesn't look like it is good to go to move to a shop for repair. It seems kind of amazing we heard/felt nothing until backing up (perhaps that little metal shaft sticking out just caught at that time, and screamed), and we drove the last 4 miles through town with our windows rolled down. We're pulling with a 1 ton van, so it takes a lot for it to register any strain too.

We're inclined to fix it ourselves ($$, if it would save), but I'd rather be playing and gardening than learning about bearings and hubs, personally.

I think we'll be repacking these regularly in the future, and spares will be going in the toolbox.
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Old 07-12-2010   #6
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Originally Posted by lhowemt View Post
No idea what kind of bearings/hub we have, yet. Here are some photos, it doesn't look like it is good to go to move to a shop for repair. It seems kind of amazing we heard/felt nothing until backing up (perhaps that little metal shaft sticking out just caught at that time, and screamed), and we drove the last 4 miles through town with our windows rolled down. We're pulling with a 1 ton van, so it takes a lot for it to register any strain too.

We're inclined to fix it ourselves ($$, if it would save), but I'd rather be playing and gardening than learning about bearings and hubs, personally.

I think we'll be repacking these regularly in the future, and spares will be going in the toolbox.

Hey Laura,
Glad you made it home with that.

Bearings are toast. It doesn't sling that much grease without frying something.

Not hard to do seals bearings and races at all. It's dirty but not hard. Packing the bearings by hand is a "little" messy too, but at least it's clean grease.

It can be a little hard to get out the old race on the inside, sometimes it is pressed on which is another thing to think about.

I would think about doing the other side too - or at least taking it apart cleaning it, looking for pitting and scoring on the roller parts and races.

One of the most challenging parts is getting the right pre-load on the bearing.

You usually need a good torque wrench to do this.

Good luck.
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Old 07-12-2010   #7
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Take the tire off, take the cotter pin out, remove the big nut. It should come off easily. Now the hub will come off the axle. Check the axle for damage, but from the looks of the photos, I'm guessing the axle will be ok. Take the hub to a parts dealer to get new bearings and seal. If the hub is damaged, you may need a new hub. It looks like the big washer behind the nut may be gone. You'll need a new one. The race for the outer bearing is pressed into the hub, so the race may be shot, but the hub may be ok. If just replacing the race, it will have to be pounded out with a punch from the back side. There will be a couple of small areas where you will be able to just get the edge of the punch on the race to push it out. If you can have the parts shop do this, it will be much easier. The new race has to be pressed in also. Make sure it is all the way seated. If you are not comfortable with this, it might be easier to just buy a new hub and bearing set. This is also what you would want to carry as a spare. Just be sure that you have the bearings packed on the spare so it's ready to go if you need it. Keep it boxed up and clean.
Once the new inner bearing and seal are installed (the seal must be carefully pressed into place), you can reinstall the hub. The tricky part is how tight to tighten the nut. I was taught to first over-tighten it and then back it off just a touch so that the wheel turns freely, but not too loose or you will just be doing this all over again. Some goes for too tight.
Looks like I failed to mention that the bearings must be properly packed with grease before the reassembly starts.
If you want to talk to me about this, shoot me a PM and I will send you my phone #.


Looks like Carvedog addressed some of this while I was typing. Good info there.
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Old 07-12-2010   #8
 
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Thanks everyone, lots of good info. The Buzz is so excellent!

I did find a cool video:



It actually scared me more than anything, wondering if the axle is bent or something. but a good visual on adjusting the pre-load.

I'll be passing this info on to the project manager (husband), I'm actually supposed to be staying out of this repair! I'm pretty sure we have a good torque wrench too. And we are definitely doing both sides.
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Old 07-12-2010   #9
 
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[QUOTE=rwhyman;193503]Not to be a smart ass, but it's bearings and races, not chases.

My bad...races not chases. Should proof read more carefully. Anyway, it is a pretty straightforward repair and a good parts shop should still be able to tell you just what parts are needed and the price difference between getting the parts separately or the whole assembly. Latex or similar style double gloving is also a good idea. It is a messy job. Good luck.
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Old 07-12-2010   #10
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Originally Posted by lhowemt View Post
Thanks everyone, lots of good info. The Buzz is so excellent!

I did find a cool video:



It actually scared me more than anything, wondering if the axle is bent or something. but a good visual on adjusting the pre-load.

I'll be passing this info on to the project manager (husband), I'm actually supposed to be staying out of this repair! I'm pretty sure we have a good torque wrench too. And we are definitely doing both sides.
wow they have everything on the utubes these days. yeah that's the bit.
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