Rigging question - Seat platform to strap onto cooler - Mountain Buzz
 

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Old 02-23-2008   #1
 
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Rigging question - Seat platform to strap onto cooler

HI Everyone-

I am going to build a platform on which I can bolt my NRS high back tractor seat. I will strap this platform over the cooler. This will allow me to have my seat on a rental boat on a Grand Canyon trip.

Before I get started, I thought I'd see what advice people have on the thickness of plywood, bolt types, and protection for cooler.

I am leaning towards bolting through a 3/4" piece of plywood. Then cut holes in a 1/2" piece to create a shim that effectively counter sinks the bolts without making the 3/4" piece thinner or weaker. Glue and screw the two sheets together.

I have to ship this beast, so I'd rather not do the 1/2". Any ideas? I also want to make sure it is bomb proof so I want to have exposed heads with big washers on the 3/4" piece, not flush bolt heads.

Thanks!

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Old 02-23-2008   #2
 
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Have you considered buying a flip up seat bracket instead?
Flip Seat Bracket - Clavey River Equipment

It comes in two sizes, so you would need to ask your outfitter which one is right. For that matter the outfitter might have one that they would rent you for cheap. The outfitter might even have a high back tractor seat for you to use.
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Old 02-23-2008   #3
 
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Yup, thought that one through already. The frame from the outfitter is fully welded, can't remove the bar to slide the flip seat onto.

Quote:
Originally Posted by raftus View Post
Have you considered buying a flip up seat bracket instead?
Also no, the outfitter recommended making this platform as a solution. I think I'll leave mine with them, hopefully some poor seat-addicted person will benefit from it in the future. It will be well made, but probably not worth me trying to bring it home on the plane, and not worth shipping again.

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Originally Posted by raftus View Post
The outfitter might even have a high back tractor seat for you to use.
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Old 02-23-2008   #4
 
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I don't think you need 2 layers of plywood. use some angled allen head bolts that you can countersink flush. Make it wider than the seat to add stabilty and srapping points. You might add some thin foam or felt to the bottom as a skid pad/cooler protector.

Have you tried to remove your seat yet? even with stainless fasteners, it can get really locked on.

Maybe it would fit flat in a big suitcase?

I keep trying to lose the big tractor seat, but I haven't found anything I like better.

Have a great trip.
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Old 02-23-2008   #5
 
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The welded frame does make this more challenging. You could make an assembly using lowpro fittings, tees, and aluminum pipe that could clamp on to the existing frame, but that could be cumbersome and or costly.

Instead of cutting holes in the 1/2" sheet you could just glue a runner down each side of 3/4" sheet to keep the bolt heads off the cooler and save some weight. You could also go to a local metal fabricator and get a aluminum plate and drill holes in it for the seat, and the wooden side runners. That would be quite strong and probably lighter than the wood only design.

I also wonder about lateral sliding stability. How will you prevent the seat from sliding to the side? Will you run a strap from each side of the seat platform to the side frame rails?
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Old 02-23-2008   #6
 
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Hi

I solved this problem by having a piece of aluminum plate cut to size -- 14" wide, or so -- and bent in a 90 degree angle. I drilled holes in one side of the resulting angle to fit the seat hold bolts. I drilled a series of holes in the other side that were the proper interval for a set of U-bolts that fit the size tube of the frame crossbar.. I say series, because I drilled two sets about 10" apart parallel to each other, and in each parallel line the holes were 1" apart.

Bolt the seat to the top piece. Set the assembly on the load or whatever, and use the U-bolts to clamp it solid to the frame crossbar. This will not work well for a load that you have to access all the time like a cooler, unless you know the height above the bar that you want the seat. In that case, the aluminum can be cut short enough to allow the whole assembly to rotate forward to access the cooler..

I used this setup on the Grand last May over a load of rocket boxes, and it worked fine. In most cases (that is where you didn't have a chance to cut it to a suitable vertical length), it would help to be sure the load items directly under the seat don't have to be accessed often.

FWIW.

Rich Phillips
VP, GCPBA
gcpba.org
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Old 02-23-2008   #7
 
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Thanks Everyone-

I am so jacked to go, I couldn't wait for advice to build the darn thing.

got my seat off OK

Built it about 1' wider on each side. Used 5/8" plywood for the top, 1/2" for the bottom. Used 1 3/8" boring bit through the 1/2" to fit the fender washers. Used gorilla glue and screws from the bottom to fasten the two sheets together. You can't even tell by looking at it now it is two pieces, just looks like a ridiculously thick sheet of plywood.

Three strap width slats on each side. 4 straps, one on each side on front, one on each side on back. 2nd and 3rd slats on each side are to bring the strap up from the bottom so a double strap goes over the top and down to the cross bar. I should be able to get it very tight.

Marine spar to be applied this week. Ship off to Flag soon thereafter!!!!! I'm shipping most of my stuff, I don't want to risk a 3 legged flight losing/delaying checked luggage.

Once I get it rigged (and return from 23 days on the Grand!), I'll take a photo and post it.

I'm sure I overbuilt it but if it fails I'm SOB for bracing in the BIG ONES! When in doubt, hell for stout.

Laura
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Old 02-24-2008   #8
 
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NRS Gear Swap

Can you see this post?

Seat Bracket on NRS gear swap.

Might work for ya
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Old 02-25-2008   #9
 
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Thanks Mike, but I put my first coat of Marine spar on last night. Problem is, I built it so nice now I'll need to ship it home when I am done. I was going to just abandon it with somone or the outfitter, but I think it will be worth the shipping to get it home.

At least now I have a cheap solution if I want to start sitting on a dry box on my 13' Otter.
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Old 02-25-2008   #10
 
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Please post a picture when you get done, it is always cool to see solutions.
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