Grand Canyon Climbing - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 02-11-2013   #1
 
Whistler, BC
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Grand Canyon Climbing

Hey Guys,

I've tried searching but can't seem to find anything relevant....

I'm going on a 21 day Grand Canyon trip in April / May and had heard that there may be some climbing to be had from some of the camps on the way down.

Does anyone have any more info. as to where and what gear to bring? There are about 4 climbers in the group, probably climbing between 5.6 and 5.11. We have 5 rafts and 7 kayaks on our trip, but I don't want to burden the rafts with too much gear, especially if it won't be needed.

I was thinking of keeping it to a minimum and taking rope, harness, chalkbag, shoes and a set of nuts and just doing some toproping, but if it's worth it I could toss in some friends and a bit more gear for leading....

Any info. would be much appreciated.

Cheers

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Old 02-11-2013   #2
 
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tommy caldwell - Google Search
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Old 02-11-2013   #3
 
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Look at you Nemi.. Promoting a guy who owes you 15 bucks.. Itīs good to see you got over it.
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Old 02-11-2013   #4
 
Westminster, Colorado
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There is a ton of climbing potential in the canyon. I know some of the temples have routes up them. I'm sure you could find something to climb at just about any camp as well. I would go with a FA mindset, triple set of cams to #3 BD Camalot, small set of wires, a hand drill, some bolts/ hangers and some cord for anchors.

Good luck, here's a bit of info on MP.
Mountain Project: Climbing Northern Arizona > Grand Canyon National Park
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Old 02-11-2013   #5
River Gypsy
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coloclimber512 View Post
...a hand drill, some bolts/ hangers and some cord for anchors.
Are you really suggesting drilling bolts in the GC?? I personally think that is totally unacceptable. The canyon is hammered enough by people already without having holes drilled in it. What's more, most of the rock is so soft that I would be wary of taking anything more than a toprope fall on a bolt down there anyway.

I suggest just taking shoes and bouldering around a bit.
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Old 02-11-2013   #6
 
Westminster, Colorado
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Originally Posted by Leland View Post
Are you really suggesting drilling bolts in the GC?? I personally think that is totally unacceptable. The canyon is hammered enough by people already without having holes drilled in it. What's more, most of the rock is so soft that I would be wary of taking anything more than a toprope fall on a bolt down there anyway.

I suggest just taking shoes and bouldering around a bit.

Yes, Leland. With no dis respect, I have suggested putting in some bolt anchors for those guys if they do attempt any new routing. Which there are plenty of new routes to be climbed in the GC. Of all grades. I take it that you haven't done much climbing in the past. But typically unless there is a walk off decent you will probably need to rappell down at some point. Bolt anchors are strong in ALL types of rock, as long as the installer is using the right gear for the type of rock being climbed. In my opinion most of the rock quality in the GC is pretty good. There are some formations that probably would not react to climbing so well. ie: the Tapeats Sandstone formation. But the limestones, granite, and more durable sandstone formations are very good for climbing. Also, most of these anchors you wouldnt even see unless you are looking for them or knew their exact placment. So I doubt this is going to ruin your experience. I'm sure there is few sets of anchors in the canyon already. Didn't see them on my trip down. The only bolt anchors I vaguely remember from my trip down were for rafts to be tied to at Havasu, I could be mistaken though as it didn't concern me much and we were not rafting so didn't need them.

Although, I have only been down the GC once I did not see that the GC was getting hammered by people let alone being ruined by a couple bolt anchors to get off of a climbing route. I was surprised by the lack of trash, including micro trash for the entire length of the trip. Which I thought was awesome! Considering the thousands of people that go down each year. That could be the time of year we were in there or most people are just responsible and clean up after themselves.

I feel that climbing in the GC would be a great time. I would do it responsibly, use bolts or anchors only where needed, use natural or clean protection as much as possible. Try to excersise the walk off decent if its there.
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Old 02-11-2013   #7
 
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Grrrrrrrrrrrr
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Old 02-11-2013   #8
 
flagstaff, Arizona
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Bolts Illegal

Bolts are illegal within the GCNP. Basejumping is also illegal within the GCNP as found out by McNamara on the TOmmy Caldwell trip. He was banned from the Park for 5 years and given a hefty fine. If the Park was lucky enough to catch you in the act, the TL and trip might get a free helicopter ride out.

Probably shouldn't be climbing overhead if you can't build a traditional anchor. The Canyoneers have become quite proficient in traditional anchors. One technique they use is drystacking a pile of rocks with webbing around it:0 Pretty hard to do for the first time if you've been rapping off of bolts.

If you can con your trip into camping at Badger, there's some multi pitch cracks that go way high. Bring OW pro. Every once in awhile you will hit a solo bat that will send the tinglers up your back hairs

I've found, unless your trip is all about climbing, you will have a hard time encouraging the group to wait for someone climbing except bouldering at stops or in camp.

Checkout Grand Canyoneering by Todd Martin, best guidebook I've seen!

Brady
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Old 02-11-2013   #9
 
Westminster, Colorado
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Originally Posted by moetown View Post
Bolts are illegal within the GCNP. Basejumping is also illegal within the GCNP as found out by McNamara on the TOmmy Caldwell trip.
Where have you read that bolts are illegal in Grand Canyon National Park? I have checked the NPS website and I didn't see where it stated that or had any information for climbing. Secondly, there are sport climbs within the parks boundaries published on the link I posted above. So I doubt there is a bolting ban within the park, if there was it would most likely be noted on their website as well. If there is I will stand corrected. With that said, most National Parks DO NOT allow motorized drills. That is why I recommended bringing a hand drill. Because they do allow bolts to be placed by hand.

BASE jumping however, is illegal in the park. That why he was banned for five years. Not for placing bolts.

With the rack I described above and the OPs group climbing in good style. They will have fun or maybe they will be enjoying the river so much that they won't have time to climb. But, the gear is on the raft.
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Old 02-11-2013   #10
 
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Originally Posted by boof512 View Post
Look at you Nemi.. Promoting a guy who owes you 15 bucks.. Itīs good to see you got over it.

I figure if I keep promoting him he can pay me the 15 bucks....... I was his agent for the talks to get him on the Citibank commercial. Alex agreed to do it for 37.00 and new tires for his van and free low alcohol beer in Moab.

And I agree..... unless your group is all about climbing it will be hard to get a lot of climbing in on a Raft trip without a motor....... but not impossible, and there is a shit ton of sick walls down in there.
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