Anyone using Cataract oar weights on Cataract Oar Shafts - Mountain Buzz

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Old 09-18-2009   #1
Jenks, Oklahoma
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,766
Anyone using Cataract oar weights on Cataract Oar Shafts

I have a set of these weights and shift them between several different oar shafts.

My problem is the nylon screws are about worthless as they twist and break inside the screw holes.

I went to the hardware store and found some stainless steel screws that are the same size as the nylon units.

I am thinking about putting a strip of electricians tape on the oar shaft and then screwing the weights down on top of that tape.

My concern is wondering if this might damage the oar shaft in any way.

Anyone else had the same problem with the nylon screws
used stainless steel screws as replacements.



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Old 09-18-2009   #2
slavetotheflyrod's Avatar
Littleton, Colorado
Paddling Since: 98
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 387
I use duct tape to hold mine where I want em. Hasn't failed me yet, and hasn't damaged the oars.
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Old 09-18-2009   #3
Evergreen, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 131
I've had the same problem with the nylon screws, I was able to get a number of extras inc case one of them broke. I actually had one so stripped, I had to drill it out, and now I can't get a new screw in that hole.

If you oars are capable of having the oar sleeves and oar-rites drilled and screwed in, then you can screw your counterweights in as well..
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Old 09-18-2009   #4
lhowemt's Avatar
at my house, Montana
Paddling Since: 2020
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,604
Well cataract doesn't recommend even the oar rights to be screwed in, although I'm going to do exactly that on my cat oars.

I use the counterweights on the raft, and yes when teflon set screws strip strip they suck. I got a dental tool to pick out all of the shredded plastic, major PITA! But got new ones in and they are good. Those set screws aren't designed for re-doing often at all, pretty much once with a few adjustments if you are lucky.

In order to use the set screw on the oar right, I'm going to drill a pilot hole so it is really no different than the blade locking mechanism hole. I don't think crushing the set screws into the oar would be good, it will just start to deteriorate from there. Maybe it will be fine, maybe not. Even with the tape, it's going to take more force than just pressing into the tape to hold it, it will have to press into the shaft.

Why swap out so much? Get a set for each set of oars, I've heard people have even gotten cheapo ankle weights and duct taped them on. $15 vs $60+, seems not bad to me.
Living in Montana, boating in Idaho
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Old 09-18-2009   #5
Jenks, Oklahoma
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,766
I had two of the nylon screws break off. I drilled a pilot hole then another larger hole thru the nylon. Then as mentioned above, used a pick to get the nylon shreds out of the threads (that nylon just sticks big time in the threads). I then went to the hardware store and purchased a thread bit (1/4 x 20) and cleaned / redid the threads.

I wish I did have the bucks to buy several more pairs of the weights, hopefully can in the future.

What I am thinking after reading the feed back so far is use the stainless steel screws but do not screw them in so tight they damage the oar shaft but do hold the weights on, then run several layers of electricians tape just below and just above the weights to keep them from slipping up and down.

Never thought about the wrist weights but will go by the local sports shop and see what they have.

Appreciate the feedback and if there is more out there please post it.


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Old 09-18-2009   #6
Wirednoodle's Avatar
Portland, Oregon
Paddling Since: 1986
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 114
For a low profile, cheap alternative go to the sporting goods store and get some coiled lead weight. Wrap the end of the oar, then tape.
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