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Old 05-04-2011   #11
Boise, Idaho
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 427
I used to hit my knees all the time until I tried sitting lower on my frame. I now sit as close as I can to the crossbars and no more knee issues.

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Old 05-04-2011   #12
Avatard's Avatar
portland, Oregon
Paddling Since: 1991
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 2,188
Make sure you have 3" min between handles when oars are level. This will prevent hand crushing blows

Usually you want to sore stuff under the rower (drybox or cooler). This puts you up a bit. Make sure your legs are straight enough to keep knees below your hips. If oars/seat/oarstand is all correct you should have oar handles a little below the chest during the stroke which should mean the handle can drop about 1 foot during the return stroke. With 1/3 inside and 2/3 outside this means the oars lift 2 feet. With 1/4 - 3/4 that's 3:1 so you shouldnt have problems with hitting your oars on your knees unless your geometry is all messed up

Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it "guaranteed", I will. I got spare time.
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Old 05-05-2011   #13
snakester's Avatar
Mesa, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2010
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 161
I tried them out today & they were a little heavy .
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Old 05-06-2011   #14
slamkal's Avatar
vancouver, Washington
Paddling Since: 1996
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,146
yeah, long carlisles --- lots of oar outside the oar towers ... hence reason why people go with sawyers, cataracts or counterbalanced ...

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