What rock climbing anchors/devices for securing raft to shore? - Mountain Buzz
 

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Old 09-04-2016   #1
 
Electric-Mayhem's Avatar
 
Lakewood, Colorado
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What rock climbing anchors/devices for securing raft to shore?

So I went on a Grand Canyon trip last month and there were more then a couple situations where there was no good place to tie a rope around and no sand to pound a stake in. We saw a few commercial trips that used climbing gear to stick into a crack and I was wondering if anyone on here had specific ones that have worked well for them. I don't want to have to bring a whole set of nuts/hexs/cams/etc. to get it done. I worked at a outdoor store that sold climbing gear back in the day but I've forgotten most of what I learned.

If I had had something that worked, I think my group would have been much more into hiking up Matkatamiba Canyon and it would have come in handy at Ledges camp and a few other places too.

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Old 09-04-2016   #2
 
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Nampa, Idaho
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What rock climbing anchors/devices for securing raft to shore?

I have never anchored a boat using climbing pro, but I have used them extensively on multi-pitch aid and trad routes. Mayhem, this is a bit of a loaded question. It's like asking rafters which is better, oar rights or or open oar locks. So be prepared for a lot of opinions. Here's mine;
I would recommend cams. Yes they are expensive, but they are easier to place especially for novices. They are fast to place, fast to remove, work in straight sided cracks, fit a wider range of cracks (especially the double axled cams), and can withstand multi-directional vectors of pull.

I would imagine that they could also be used for setting up MA systems for pinned rafts too.


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Old 09-04-2016   #3
 
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Its not loaded at all....I just asked if anyone has had success and with what kind of gear. I didn't get the chance to look at what the commercials were using up close, so I wanted to get y'alls experience.

I agree that a medium sized cam sounds like a good once size fits all device. I could also see how having a set of stoppers might do the trick too. Lastly, doing a bit of looking around on climbing manufacturer sites I found the Trango Big Bro and that type of device might work well in a lot of places too.

Lastly, I'd have no problem inheriting someones "spent" gear that they have retired. It would be assumed that it wouldn not be used for anything other then keeping the rafts from floating away though...so no rescue duty.

Not sure how often climbers replace stuff, but I have to assume its at least every 4-5 years or so depending on how often they use it. I'm sure some guys who are getting out weekly or daily probably do it pretty often, especially after a few big falls.

Since I'm a novice, I have no problem with people having differing opinions about what gear to use. I'm just looking for their experiences...especially with this specific scenario.
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Old 09-04-2016   #4
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Thanks for starting this thread.
Been thinking about increasing what I have on me to anchor a boat. Thinking 'bout replacing my flip line with some smaller prusic ( or just a decent length loop in my P.F.D. pocket) that bights better on clumps of willows, when that's all you get. Maybe a couple sets of nuts in the pocket of my P.F.D. Would give one so many more options for tying off quick when it counts. Would love to hear what pro people are using to tie boats off to.
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Old 09-04-2016   #5
 
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Lakewood, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattman View Post
Thanks for starting this thread.
Been thinking about increasing what I have on me to anchor a boat. Thinking 'bout replacing my flip line with some smaller prusic that bights better on clumps of willows, when that's all you get. Maybe a couple sets of nuts in the pocket of my P.F.D. Would give one so many more options for tying off quick when it counts. Would love to hear what pro people are using for anchor's to tie boats to.
I'm sure most of us on here have seen them a lot, but I made myself a Sand Stake before I went on my last trip and was very glad to have it. I made it out of some 3x3" steel angle iron I had laying around since I didn't feel like spending another $50-60 for the aluminum ones that most outfitters sell and didn't have time to go out and find aluminum stock. Its quite a bit heavier, but cost me $5 and 20 minutes with a grinding disc and a bit of mig welding. Didn't even get that rusty despite me doing no paint or other protection. Mine is basically the same design as this one, but from mild steel instead of aluminum...



I do it when its the only option, but I always hate tying to trees and plants. They are plenty secure, but especially if its in a opportune spot they get beat up pretty quickly by multiple people using it and sustain permanent damage. Tree's are pretty much non-existent on some trips like the GC too, so you end up tying off to some sketchy willow or tamarisk plant.

I too want multiple options though, since each camp varies on how its setup and it seemed like climbing "pro" worked for some of the GC commercial professionals.
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Old 09-04-2016   #6
 
Salt Lake City, Utah
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If the crack is deep, a Kong gypsie cam is great . It has the largest range of any cam. Hard to place while climbing, but a great boat anchor in medium to large cracks. I also bring some old metolius tcu units ( blue, yellow, orange , red). They are small so they are easy to pack. They fit small cracks. With a medium and one larger nut, I feel pretty prepared. Watch eBay for old very used climbing gear. It only needs to anchor a boat or help flip one. I also bring some old nylon runners and a wall hauler from my big wall days.

Gipsy - Climbing - KONG Italy

Metolius Ultralight TCU
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Old 09-04-2016   #7
 
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Tri Cams are cheap and work well in a variety in situations.
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Old 09-04-2016   #8
 
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Look on Craigslist or post your own wanted to buy ad. Try a few garage sales. Don't buy it new.


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Old 09-05-2016   #9
 
Durango, Colorado
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I added a set of nuts to my pin kit, and an ancient 3/4 size rigid friend cam to my bow line bag several years ago. It comes in handy regularly when scouting rapids, and for hanging out while taking pictures or setting safety on rivers like the Piedra. I think that a double axle cam is the way to go if you are buying new, but for boating I would just look for some old stuff on mountainproject.
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Old 09-05-2016   #10
 
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Boise, Idaho
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Looking for old or retired gear for hanging hammocks, I posted an ad on Craigslist in the "wanted" and "for sale" sections. Ended up with an entire array of hexes, nuts, a tri-cam, stoppers, several camalots and about 80' of rope for $60. The rope comes in handy for hanging hammocks over long stretches between trees or rocks--all you need is 2 prusiks to attach a hammock to the rope.

At all the local used outdoor gear stores, a used full set of hexes alone was $60+. Craigslist might be the way to go.

Good luck!
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