My perspective from a couple decades of boating and being a trad climber for about 25 years (i.e. climbing cracks and placing pro on lead).
There are 2 different applications for anchors in boating, 1 application is to set up an anchor to set up mechanical advantage to extract a pinned boat. The other is to anchor a floating boat. There are rare occasions when anchoring a floating boat would require placing climbing gear in cracks. There are lots of situation where setting up an un-pin system could benefit from setting anchors in cracks.
Another big difference in climbing to boating, climbing anchors need to take dynamic loads, where as boating anchors are almost always static pulls. Very different considerations.
Spring loaded cams work great, but they don't love to get wet. Wet cams attract dirt and grit which makes the springs not work well surprisingly quickly. Also, they are terrible when there is a lot of movement applied to them, say from moving water on an anchored boat. Unless they are equalized with other pieces, they will walk in the crack and potentially either come out or get so stuck you won't every get them back out of the crack.
If you want to take rock climbing pro for use on the river, 1 set of nuts/stoppers and 1 set of Camp/Trango/Lowe tri cams from 0.5 up to 2.5 inches and #8 to #10 hexes should be plenty of gear to get you solid anchors for most static pull situations. I like the newer wild country slung hexentrics instead of hexes with swaged wire (if you can't find a set of old slung hexes). Equalizing a couple pieces is not a problem if you want a multidirectional anchor to tie boats. To learn how to place rock pro and construct equalized anchors, there is only one bible:
Climbing Anchors and More Climbing Anchors by Jon Long