What rock climbing anchors/devices for securing raft to shore? - Page 2 - Mountain Buzz
 

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Old 09-05-2016   #11
 
Golden, Colorado
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Just a word of warning: constructing reliable rock anchors is a skill requiring considerable study and experience. And surging eddies (or any place your anchor is subject to repeated moving forces over period of time) are ideal situations to loosen an otherwise bomber placement. Do your homework if you plan to go this route.

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Old 09-05-2016   #12
 
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Nampa, Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infidien View Post
Just a word of warning: constructing reliable rock anchors is a skill requiring considerable study and experience. And surging eddies (or any place your anchor is subject to repeated moving forces over period of time) are ideal situations to loosen an otherwise bomber placement. Do your homework if you plan to go this route.
Exactly!
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Old 09-05-2016   #13
 
Salt Lake City, Utah
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To add to the above, most anchoring in a climbing situation is done in a "fixed" fashion. One may have the skills for building climbing anchors with a "fixed" direction which is usually down. In building anchors in a rafting environment, self equalizing anchors are the anchors of choice as they will self equalize as the raft moves in various directions. This is a skill one needs to learn and practice often if this is a consideration.
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Old 09-05-2016   #14
 
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Up North, Oregon
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My perspective from a couple decades of boating and being a trad climber for about 25 years (i.e. climbing cracks and placing pro on lead).


There are 2 different applications for anchors in boating, 1 application is to set up an anchor to set up mechanical advantage to extract a pinned boat. The other is to anchor a floating boat. There are rare occasions when anchoring a floating boat would require placing climbing gear in cracks. There are lots of situation where setting up an un-pin system could benefit from setting anchors in cracks.


Another big difference in climbing to boating, climbing anchors need to take dynamic loads, where as boating anchors are almost always static pulls. Very different considerations.


Spring loaded cams work great, but they don't love to get wet. Wet cams attract dirt and grit which makes the springs not work well surprisingly quickly. Also, they are terrible when there is a lot of movement applied to them, say from moving water on an anchored boat. Unless they are equalized with other pieces, they will walk in the crack and potentially either come out or get so stuck you won't every get them back out of the crack.


If you want to take rock climbing pro for use on the river, 1 set of nuts/stoppers and 1 set of Camp/Trango/Lowe tri cams from 0.5 up to 2.5 inches and #8 to #10 hexes should be plenty of gear to get you solid anchors for most static pull situations. I like the newer wild country slung hexentrics instead of hexes with swaged wire (if you can't find a set of old slung hexes). Equalizing a couple pieces is not a problem if you want a multidirectional anchor to tie boats. To learn how to place rock pro and construct equalized anchors, there is only one bible:


Climbing Anchors and More Climbing Anchors by Jon Long
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Old 09-05-2016   #15
 
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Fort Fun, Colorado
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This was my boat rack when I was down there. For the amount of use it would get I wouldn't spend much $$ on it. Click image for larger version

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Old 09-06-2016   #16
 
Denver, Colorado
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Good thing is that climbing gear has to be in really really good shape to trust your life on it, but I do not hold my rafting gear to the same standard. I use only retired climbing gear on my boat. But this means that there is lots and lots of gear that is probably perfectly good out there but the climbers who trust their lives on it have replaced it with new gear. So you should be able to buy retired climbing gear that is in good shape for next to nothing. But as mentioned above, a moving boat will "walk" cams out of a crack. Maybe passive gear is better. That being said, I have yet to find a camp that didn't have something I could tie off too or place a sand stake in.
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Old 09-06-2016   #17
 
SLC, Utah
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I carry a couple of medium to large old 1st gen Camelots, hexes, and stoppers on Grand Canyon trips in an old small dry bag. I don't use them often, but they are really nice when needed. Matkat is one place, Havasu (crowded) is another. And stuffing into a scree field to right a boat is (hypothetically) appealing. If I could only take one type, it would a set of hexes (simple, multiple positions that always seem to work, and tough). Agreed that used and worn seems ok - they are not likely to take a bit impact load. I pretty much always place 2 or 3 pieces to equalize the load and ensure the rope is pulling in the right direction regardless of surge or drifting. I climb and canyoneer and feel somewhat comfortable placing pro correctly. Placing pro with both feet on the ground, muscles not quivering, and in no hurry is a treat and greatly helps the quality of the protection (for me).
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Old 09-06-2016   #18
 
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jackson, Wyoming
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Chocks and bongs .
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