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Old 09-25-2013   #11
colorado, Carbondale, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2012
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 84
Watermonkey, my frame is not changing now. A little on the late side for that, I cant imagine that the rope drag can be that awfully much rubbing on the inside of the frame. Anyway it is what it is now. Also, I meant to say it was a 7 mill, but hell it might even be a 8 mill. Also forget to mention that my shoulder, especially the right one is extremely screwed up from arthritis and certain motions for me are VERY painful. Hence, why I am trying to get something that can pull easier. I will say in decent current, that pulling a 35 pound anchor up against maybe some loose rocks or whatever is holding onto it sometimes is not that easy at all.

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Old 09-25-2013   #12
cataraftgirl's Avatar
Sandy, Utah
Paddling Since: 1997
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,121
Originally Posted by beetle View Post
Cataraftgirl, I was talking about an additional pulley (biner) at the anchor and then a pulley at the back of the boat, but I think I am going to try this 2:1 system first because I think it is less likely to tangle than 3 lines in the damn water which is what I have setup.
I found that pic while reading through some old threads about anchor systems. It looks pretty simple to set up. Let us know if you try it out and how it works. When you've got a bum shoulder, you take whatever help you can get. Keep on fishing!

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Old 09-25-2013   #13
East of the Pine beatle, Colorado
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,363
I've been running the system you're asking about- One pulley built into the hanger off the frame, and one just above the anchor. Here's what you'll find- 1/2 the effort, but 1/2 the progress with each pull. My 30 lb anchor lifts at 15 lbs of effort- but I have to pull in twice as much rope to get the job done. You can add as many pullies as you'd like (within reason) and you'll get the same result- effort goes down, but progress does at the same rate.
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Old 09-25-2013   #14
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Wheat Ridge, Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 163
We do offer a 2:1 option:
Upgrade 2:1 Pulley for Anchor System

Please call or email with any questions:
About Us
Toll Free: 1-888-467-2144
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Old 09-25-2013   #15
East of the Pine beatle, Colorado
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,363
That's the one I've got- works great!
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Old 09-26-2013   #16
Bayfield, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1980
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 80
Does your rope rub directly on your frame? If it does I had the same problem and it creates a unbelievable amount of friction even if the angle of the rope against the frame is very slight like mine was. I had to move the pulley on the anchor tower slightly to the rear (towards the pulley that the anchor hangs from) to eliminate the rubbing. It works much better now. Keep in mind that NRS sells individual components for their anchor system. You have to call them though as it does not show this on their web site.
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Old 10-08-2013   #17
elkhaven's Avatar
Belgrade, Montana
Paddling Since: 1991
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,661
2:1 Anchor

The basic 2 to 1 discussed in this thread is extremely common throughout the northwest. I used to laugh at folks that rigged their anchors that way as I've always believed simplest (fewest pulleys) was best for anchor systems...BUT I have gravitated towards a 45lb anchor over the years (I want to stop when I drop it) and am really tired of pulling my a// off to get it up to the bracket. I've used a few of these systems over the past few years and really like the easy up. I'm getting a new boat in the next few weeks and one of the first modifications will be to add a 2:1 to the anchor system. The other anchor mod will be a pivoting pully at the rope return. My biggest gripe about the NRS system is the fixed pulley is never in line with how I'm pulling and I wear out sheaves at the rope return (plus have to pull through all that friction, of grinding my sheave against the side plates).

Check your system and make sure all the sheaves (pulley's) are running smoothly when you lift your anchor, especially the one up front (rope return), if they are rubbing or not turning it will make things much harder. Lastly ensure that your rope isn't too big, it will also increase friction a surprising amount. You will be able to run smaller rope with a 2:1 with less hand fatigue since your pulling half the weight.

I also feel like I need to remind people not to tie their anchor to the frame or tie a knot in the end of the rope. I've seen several comments on doing this in other threads and it's really dangerous. I watched a 22' Duckworth go down in the Columbia because of this simple mistake. If you accidentaly drop your anchor in fast current you propably won't have time to cut the rope and you surely wont be able to untie the knot. Sorry for the soap box just a pet peeve.

Good luck!
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Old 10-25-2013   #18
elkhaven's Avatar
Belgrade, Montana
Paddling Since: 1991
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,661

I rigged my anchor as a 2:1 over the weekend (just like in post # 8 and it worked awesome. I cannot believe my stubborn ass didn't do this years ago. It was actually faster than pulling the full weight because I could just go hand over hand.
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Old 11-10-2013   #19
Engineer Civil Structural Hydraulic, Evans CO
Paddling Since: 68
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 158
That'll do wonders for the salmon habitat
Gary Strome
Friends Don't Let Friends Drive PVC Boats
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Old 11-15-2013   #20
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Belgrade, Montana
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,661
?? Salmon habitat?

Yesterday's gone on down the river and you can't get it back. - Agustus McCrae
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