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Old 04-03-2014   #71
 
Shingle Springs, California
Paddling Since: 1992
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 101
100% Homemade except for the springs / axle / wheels, bulldog hitch and stand.

It is pretty heavy. I got the material off a construction site so it is mostly 1/2" angle (Way overkill). Due to the weight I put brakes on it. It was pretty funny when it came time to flip it over inside the garage. Really a fun project. The total cost, with the free onstruction connection was $700.

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Old 04-04-2014   #72
ds
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 21
Trailer roller idea... mount oar locks or two blocks will drilled holes to rear of trailer. Slide in oar for loading or unloading...you have a removeable roller. I haven't tried it yet to see if actually works though
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Old 04-04-2014   #73
 
Helena, Montana
Paddling Since: 2013
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 95
Quote:
Originally Posted by ds View Post
Trailer roller idea... mount oar locks or two blocks will drilled holes to rear of trailer. Slide in oar for loading or unloading...you have a removeable roller. I haven't tried it yet to see if actually works though
Your oar locks are going to taller than the oar, so the raft will hang up on the locks.
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Old 04-04-2014   #74
 
Great Falls, Montana
Paddling Since: 2000
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by daledevon View Post
Your oar locks are going to taller than the oar, so the raft will hang up on the locks.
It shouldnt matter if the oarlocks are wider than your raft floor rolling over it. Interesting idea. I am looking for a way to make a good roller. Any ideas how the rollers are made on the raft trailers. Just bearings in pipe???
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Old 04-04-2014   #75
 
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Sandy, Utah
Paddling Since: 1997
Join Date: Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtfunfloater View Post
It shouldnt matter if the oarlocks are wider than your raft floor rolling over it. Interesting idea. I am looking for a way to make a good roller. Any ideas how the rollers are made on the raft trailers. Just bearings in pipe???
Me too....roller for raft that is. Watching this thread with interest for ideas.
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Old 04-04-2014   #76
 
Shingle Springs, California
Paddling Since: 1992
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 101
Rollers

It is really easy.

They make bearings for pipe. I bought mine at Ace they were for 1-1/2" black pipe (Also bought at ace) with a 3/4" shaft hole. Also buy 2 bolts to match the hole in the bearing with at least 3" of smooth shank before the head. Then make two 1/4" + thick plates to hang or support the roller. Drill a hole in each plate toward one end that is equal to the diameter of the bolts. Make sure that when the roller is installed the plate will not hit / touch the raft. Then you cut off the treads on the bolts. You now have all the pieces made. The bolt will go thru the plate into the bearing in the pipe. Do a mock up to get the distance and angle that the plates stand off the trailer. Tack weld them on. Then measure between them and cut your pipe. Insert the bearings into the pipe and push the bolts thru the holes in the plate and into the bearings. At this point make sure you like everything. If you do tack weld the bolt head on to the plate and weld everything up....If your bearings go out you just grind off the weld and pull the bolts to change. I also tack welded the brearing into place. (Note if you look at the picture of my trailer I welded the bolt to the inside of the plate - looks really clean but will be hard to service when it goes due to having to grind the plate off one side). Good luck
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Old 04-15-2014   #77
 
Denver, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2000
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 152
Still a work in progress. Got a free winch over the weekend, and am planning on putting new wiring in with lights. I have to get new tires, and a few other odds and ends. I ripped out the old flooring, because I got a whole lot of Trex decking from a guy a few blocks away from me for free. I intend to put some rollers on top of the back gate, and should be ready to go very soon.
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Old 04-15-2014   #78
 
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Up shites creek, Colorado
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Posts: 765
420,

Good call on replacing the tires. You just see too many people broke down with a busted tire that looks 100 years old, or their axle has rotted/warn through.

Might I suggest looking at replacing the axle (and possibly the springs too) with something a little heavier duty? One because who knows how many miles it's got on it already. And two because that current setup looks VERY light duty.

If you do replace the springs, might I also suggest shifting them back maybe 6-12 inches. Your tongue weight will be a little heavier, but it should cut down on the "waggle" most trailers evenly balanced get when the weight is ever shifted more towards the back. (IE - a heavy cooler chunked in the back b/c your buddies didn't know any better) Which in turn should mean you can travel at a little faster speeds safely, and maybe have your boat sit back a little and not risk rubbing on that free wench.... oops I mean winch.

If you buy new, etrailer.com has lots of the essentials.
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Old 04-15-2014   #79
 
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Up shites creek, Colorado
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Another reason for going a little heavier duty - you're putting trex in as your decking. Isn't that stuff heavy as shite compared to wood?
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Old 04-15-2014   #80
 
Denver, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2000
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Pirate,

Yes, I have been looking etrailer.com for a while now. The trailer is 10 years old. I am definitely replacing the leaf springs, and the tires/wheels. As for the axle, I believe it is rated at 3,000lbs. Unfortunately, I do not think it is possible to move the axle back further, without cutting off the hangers, and rewelding.
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