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Old 04-01-2014   #1
Bend, Oregon
Paddling Since: 2008
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 113
Tight Fit - NRS Forged Lopro

I tried my Lopro fittings on two different lots of 1.25, Schedule 40 and they don't fit. I filed the inside pipe edges assuming the cuts were imperfect and that helped but they still don't fit. If you have these, was the fit tight, and if so, how did you make them work? Next, I think I'm going to try sanding the stub end that accepts the pipe. I know pipe wall thickness varies slightly but I shouldn't have to sand the fitting to make it work. Any ideas?

I called NRS and was told they are not aware of a problem.

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Old 04-01-2014   #2
slamkal's Avatar
vancouver, Washington
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What crap. I'll trade some good old cast ones!!

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Old 04-02-2014   #3
Bend, Oregon
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Join Date: Apr 2013
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That's one solution. Thanks.

Originally Posted by slamkal View Post
What crap. I'll trade some good old cast ones!!
Ha. Thank you for the very generous offer. I like the new forged fittings and think they are a big step forward compared to the old cast ones. I'm going to make them work but was hoping to find someone who has faced/solved this same dilemma.
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Old 04-02-2014   #4
bobbuilds's Avatar
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a few ideas,

if the pipe was cut, try reeming the inside with a razor knife, or channel locks, or go buy a pipe reamer. it will open up the i.d. at the edge of the pipe.

if you are going to sand the inside of the pipe, they make plumbers brushes that you can cut the end off and attaxch to a drill, it will make the process easyer, and finely take off a few mills the longer you keep at it.

lastly, use pencil to rub all over the male end of the fitting or pipe, graphite is a lubricant.

good luck, sounds like an easy fix, sucks it doesnt just fit together
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Old 04-02-2014   #5
Join Date: Feb 2005
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I had this problem once when I couldn't fit regular NRS fittings into some pipe I bought at a metal supply house in Grand Junction.

Turned out they had sold me schedule 80 instead of schedule 40, and the thicker wall pipe (reducing the inside dimension) was the problem. Ended up using it with Hollaender fittings on another project, since the OD still was the same.


Rich Phillips
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Old 04-02-2014   #6
Bend, Oregon
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 113
Thanks for the suggestions and relating past experiences. It all helps.
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Old 04-02-2014   #7
Whitewater Machine Works's Avatar
Groveland, California
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 31
There can be a HUGE variation in Sch 40 pipe ID. What I find most often is that the ID is actually out of round, probably because the extrusion collapsed a bit. If this is the case, you have the means to measure the tube to find the wide spot (maybe stop by your local auto parts store and ask to borrow their calipers), and you don't need the fittings to be easily removed you might be able to put the pipe in a vice and gently squeeze it back round again and slip the fitting in.

If that doesn't work, the easiest solution might be to find a local machine shop and have them bore the should only take minutes.

If you haven't purchased the material and are attempting to check fit while the material is on the rack, I have noticed that sometimes the first few inches of a length can have an undersize/deformed ID.

Hope this helps, good luck with the project.
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Old 04-02-2014   #8
DRL River Gypsies's Avatar
Albany, Oregon
Paddling Since: 2006
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 61
Just like Guy said, the pipe dimensions seem to vary more than tubing does.

I've had this problem in the past with a few sticks of pipe. The problem was consistent with the whole stick of pipe. It's only happened to me on maybe 2 or 3 sticks out of probably 50+. Maybe I'm lucky or not? I happen to have a unibit/stepbit that goes up to 1.375" in the last step. I just used that to clean out the excess material that's causing me the issues. If I had access to machining equipment, that would be the better choice. I hope that helps. Good luck!
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Old 04-02-2014   #9
Bend, Oregon
Paddling Since: 2008
Join Date: Apr 2013
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Not the same as the old fittings.

They are in. I used a drill with a grinding stone, flap wheel and brush to massage the inside of the pipe. Once clean they still fit tight and required some encouragement with a mallet to seat properly. If you have experience with the old cast fittings adjust your expectations, accept that it's a bit of a project and it's no big deal. When you are ready to put them in, line them up, drive them slowly and check to make sure they don't move. Once they are in they don't come out and they don't adjust.

I checked my pipe with calipers before I started and it seemed fairly round, not perfect, but good. I made an adjustment to one with a vice but wasn't sure if I helped or hurt so I stopped that practice.

I'm sure there is a better way but that's my experience.

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