Stripped holes behind valve. - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 08-30-2016   #1
Pieter Porcupine
 
Denver, Colorado
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Stripped holes behind valve.

Sorry if this is a repost but I recently purchased a well used 94 Hyside 14' self bailer with military valves. The boat is great but 4 of 6 screws are stripped in the integral part of the boat (the valve is brand new). Other than having a pro replace the whole interface is there any way to fix this? Some sort of a rubber helicoil?

Thanks in advance for your input.

-Peter

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Old 08-30-2016   #2
 
Great Falls, Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainmanPete View Post
Sorry if this is a repost but I recently purchased a well used 94 Hyside 14' self bailer with military valves. The boat is great but 4 of 6 screws are stripped in the integral part of the boat (the valve is brand new). Other than having a pro replace the whole interface is there any way to fix this? Some sort of a rubber helicoil?

Thanks in advance for your input.

-Peter
I don't know about rubber but can't the original holes be tapped one size larger?
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Old 08-30-2016   #3
 
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No, they really can't be re-tapped. The area that is available to tap in the boot is just big enough for the size that is already there and tapping into rubber doesn't work so well. Re-tapping the holes will likely bust through a side in the boot and make retrofitting it a necessity.

Pete, give me a call and I can give you some options. Don't feel like typing it all out. The long term, permanent, you can count on me not to blow out solution is retrofitting the valve boot.
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Old 08-30-2016   #4
 
Salt Lake City, Utah
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What Zach said, and that's not a job you want to undertake unless you're pretty damn sure of your skills... if you want to get a trip out of your boat, and don't have time to replace the boot - that's at least a few hours work when you're prepared - and only if the seal is good with the two screws that are holding, you can use epoxy or better, 5200, to "temporarily" seat the screws in the valve body. Pay attention to temperature (don't do this outside in the sun) and the cure time, and you should be able to get at least a few more trips out of the valve before you're going to have to do the whole thing. It's a last ditch repair, as in "it ain't gonna' last and you'll have to ditch the whole shitaree" eventually but you can make a valve work for quite awhile if you do this properly. Use less "goo" rather than more, and keep it away from the inside... you can even put a clamp on the whole mess if you deflate the tube. Old school, but works.
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Old 09-03-2016   #5
 
Rainy Northwest, Washington
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I want had success by rotating the valve so that the screw holes in the valve were sitting over fresh rubber then screwing them in.

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Old 09-10-2016   #6
Pieter Porcupine
 
Denver, Colorado
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Originally Posted by swiftwater15 View Post
I want had success by rotating the valve so that the screw holes in the valve were sitting over fresh rubber then screwing them in.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Mountain Buzz mobile app

Thanks for the info. Have you actually had success doing this?
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Old 09-10-2016   #7
 
Rainy Northwest, Washington
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Yes. There is a thin layer of sheet metal inside the boot. I think I drilled small pilot holes first

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Old 09-10-2016   #8
 
Rainy Northwest, Washington
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The guy s at Andy and bax told me how to do it.

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