Sawyer vs. Cataract....Again! Help Please - Page 3 - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 09-29-2016   #21
 
Fruita, Colorado
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I redid and rewrapped mine...total hands on time of 4 hours for 2 sticks, 48 hours of waiting between spray coats...
turned out pretty darn good

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Old 09-29-2016   #22
 
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Get some fiberglass resin and hardener and coat them with that (about 30$ a gal).
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Old 09-29-2016   #23
 
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Originally Posted by TupperwareBill View Post
Get some fiberglass resin and hardener and coat them with that (about 30$ a gal).
Plus acetone, gloves, plastic buckets, paint brushes, and more. Another 30 +. Keeping a good temp for resin to set too. Stinky chemical mess. Not this time. Nothing happens for 30 dollars these days. Except busch pounders.

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Originally Posted by T.O.Mac View Post
I redid and rewrapped mine...total hands on time of 4 hours for 2 sticks, 48 hours of waiting between spray coats...
turned out pretty darn good
did you use resin, varnish, or urethane? Thanks
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Old 09-29-2016   #24
 
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Thanks for all the replies. I went with the sawyer MXS roped and balanced in red. With Duramax blades it was about $850. 3 square tops would be over $1000 as far as I could find and attached blades. I know way better blades so probably a push, but the Sawyers were stretching the budget anyways.
Just didn't want to spend $450 on Carlisles and then upgrade later.

Randy, I need that info sooner. I will keep them in mind for future oars. I also stayed away from wood just because it sounded like they take a bit of maintenance, especially in dry places like CO

Thanks again
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Old 09-29-2016   #25
 
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I actually did this yesterday to a wooden kayak paddle that I repaired a crack in after picking it up in a consignment shop for $20. I did the blades only because the shaft is FG, after cutting the cracked blade along the grain and regluing it I finished and fiberglassed the paddle (I used the cloth to reniforce the blades as this was the original process so it was a little more invoved than just mixing the resin and applying). I used 1/2 pint of resin $17 a pint, four throw away brushes $5, 3 sq ft of FG cloth (8 sq ft $7), some sand paper , cheap vinyl gloves, and 4 cut off water bottles (to mix the resin) I had around the house. Took me 2 hours because I put on two coats of resin, completely dry and usable 2 hours after I was done. Came out fantastic. Net cost of repair and finish $29 (I still have enough resin and cloth left over that I could do it a second time if needed) so cut that in half $15. Do it outside when the weather is right, fumes are gone as soon as it sets...you only mix as much as you can use in 15 minutes cause that's the working limit of the resin once you put the hardener in.
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Old 09-29-2016   #26
 
Portland, Oregon
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Apologies if this is a stupid question but if sawyer square tops and cataract SGG's were cost neutral what would in everyone's opinion be the best combo for mutltiday, up to class IV rafting in ID, WA, CA and OR?

Sawyer square tops with dynelite blades

Cataract SGG with magnum blades

Cataract SGG with dynelite blades

The thought of taking dynelite blades down a low water fish ladder on Rogue seems like a bad idea.


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Old 09-29-2016   #27
 
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Originally Posted by dirtbagkayaker View Post
Spar Varnish? Hummm. I like your plan. I might do that this winter. I've been told to use urethane with a separate hardener. I was told varnish will yellow and crack in the sun?? But I don't have any experience with varnish and nothing to lose on the old sticks.
They make a Spar Urethane too. It is intended for use on flexible and/or wood that may expand and contract. It doesn't get full hard like fiberglass resin or some urethanes, so it will flex with the oar instead of chipping and breaking. In my experience its easier to clean up and less toxic too.

For what its worth...the Miniwax Helmsman Spar Urethane is what Cataract recommends for refinishing their oars...

https://cataractoars.com/carbon-and-...und-oar-shafts

It also comes in spray cans, which is super easy to apply and hardly needs any cleanup.
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Old 09-29-2016   #28
 
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Originally Posted by PDX Duck View Post
Apologies if this is a stupid question but if sawyer square tops and cataract SGG's were cost neutral what would in everyone's opinion be the best combo for mutltiday, up to class IV rafting in ID, WA, CA and OR?

Sawyer square tops with dynelite blades

Cataract SGG with magnum blades

Cataract SGG with dynelite blades

The thought of taking dynelite blades down a low water fish ladder on Rogue seems like a bad idea.


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The extra reinforcement that Sawyer puts around the Dynelite blades is pretty burly and can take some abuse for sure. I do mostly deep rivers but I've hit them on rocks plenty and they do fine. I think something like a Carlisle blade is gonna break off before a Dynelite blade does. My 11' Square Tops have the XL version of the Dynelite that has the extra reinforcement around the entire blade instead of just the tip.

I can't say about the other oar and blade types since I've just been using the Squaretops. I like they they are counterbalanced but still float and seem to be plenty strong. They tend they flex instead of break, or at least to a point. I've had them pop off the pin a few times and the oar didn't seem any worse for wear. I did have one of my spare Dynelite blades catch on a very sharp rock while it was mounted to the side of the raft and it split the end, so they are completely bomb proof but still plenty durable.
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Old 09-29-2016   #29
 
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I got my Cataracts used over 10 years ago. They would give me little slivers on my legs when I pulled them in, so I spent a couple of hours sanding them down and painting on some clear spar varnish. It held up pretty well until last season when I started getting the little slivers again, so I sanded and varnished them again (same $10 can and a "disposable) brush). I don't consider that a lot of maintenance time or cost. Mine have rope wraps too that have held up just fine without me needing to do anything. I have broken one magnum blade in that time period. I like the way the magnum blades float. I've never used counter weights, fwiw.

They are a lot nicer than the Carlisles i used previously.

I've never used Sawyers, so I can't speak to those.
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Old 09-29-2016   #30
 
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Thanks electric and 90. I think its varnish for me.

PDX, I'd go square tops.
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