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Sawyer vs. Cataract....Again! Help Please

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29K views 37 replies 18 participants last post by  Cascade River Gear 
#1 ·
So I know that there have been many posts on this but I can't find too many that are relatively recent and include the Sawyer situation.

So I would like to get 10' oars and spend under $800 for a set of three, with blades.

Looking hard at the Sawyer MX or the Cataract SGG.

However it looks like there are some cons to both, the biggest being Sawyer possibly going out of business and what sounds like not so hot customer service at this point.

Cataract seems to have issues with delamination and fiberglass splinters.

Even if I decided to go with Sawyer I can't seem to find them anywhere for a decent price. I can get 3 shafts directly from Sawyer, but they want $300 to ship, so that ain't happening.

I can get three sets of SGGs with blades for around $750, but don't want to deal with fiberglass splinters and have read there rope wrap isn't as of quality as Sawyer.

Any ideas where to get Sawyers or put my cataract fears to rest?

Also are counterbalanced oars an issue as long as you have leashes? It seems to be hard to find non balanced oars that are still wrapped from either company.

Thanks
 
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#2 ·
Ive had my SGG shaft for 4 years now and they still aren't splintering yet. They get alot of use and are always stored inside. One of the oars took a swim from browns canyon all the way past salad with on minimal damage (could cause splintering later but I resealed the damaged areas after the event)

The only pairs I have personally seen splintering are sets either used commercially or ones that are very old and stored outside. We will see how mine hold up in a few more years.

If your in Glenwood you could drive to Down River Equipment, they sell Sawyer, could save on shipping.

Ive never messed with any of that counter balance stuff, I've been told they don't float as well but thats what I have been told. Could help on those 25+ miles days or wind events?

What oars are you currently using?
 
#4 ·
We can get you (3) 10Ft. MXS Wrapped and Stopped oars with DuraMax Blades for $778.44 plus $36 in shipping. If you want to get counterbalanced oars that adds $15 per oar and brings you up to $823.44. You are only charged the over sized shipping fee with us if you spend over $99 on an order.

Cataract has absolutely improved on the color fade and splintering over the years. Many of our crew runs those oars, including myself. After years of abuse when the sun takes it's toll did you know you can send them in and have them shined up again? Just food for thought and probably more important to us color coordinated boat owners.

All the above being said we can get you into 10 Ft. Cataract SGG's Wrapped and Stopped with Counter Balanced Handles and Carlisle 6.5 Blades (which are on sale currently) for $821.70 and that includes shipping. There is also the H20 Handle option with these, you can swap out the handles and go counterbalanced or not depending on the river you are running.

The Sawyer MXS's are currently on sale so think about that when comparing the two. Good luck finding some new oars. Didn't mean to sound like a total commercial but $300 shipping HOLY MOLY!! And Sawyer takes excellent care of our customers and us as a company so I wouldn't worry about issues should you have any, they will take care of you.

Keep it Right Side Up,
Renee
 
#5 ·
Thanks for all the quick replies. Riverboat I tried to find your stock but didn't see it on the website. Cascade I have been looking at your stock as well. It isn't a deal breaker but love the red sawyers and can't find them, also looking for the green SGG.

It is good to know that the splintering has been addressed because in another thread it sounded like it was still happening.

I guess I will just go back to the drawing board and figure out counterbalanced or not
 
#6 ·
I guess I will just go back to the drawing board and figure out counterbalanced or not
I'll just throw an opinion in here. We upgraded to counterbalanced SGGs last year after folding a non-counterbalanced Carlisle oar in the Royal Gorge. What a difference! On long days, or when you're constantly on the oars, the reduction of fatigue from not having to push down on the handles all the time is noticeable. At first the counterbalanced oars did feel a little more sluggish getting to the catch and sinking the blade, but I was able to adjust to that pretty quickly. Wouldn't go back now.
 
#8 ·
I have 15 year old black cataracts that I left out in the sun with no care for a long time. Say 8 years. They will give me slivers. My second set always go inside between floats and they are now ten years old and I don't think I'll have any issues. I 303 them before all floats and love them up. If your into taking care of your sticks like that, then order up the red Sawyers. If you take care of them, they will last.

With that said, I use carlisles mostly because I leave them out a lot. I kinda get lazy between floats. Good Luck.

PS, If you think Sawyer will go under then buy 4 sticks. Maybe 5???
 
#9 ·
I don't think that we need to be concerned about Sawyer going under, the now employee owned company is kicking tail and taking names. There have been no production problems and our service, as always, has been stellar!! Don't base your choice on that fear, pick the sticks that are going to make you happy on the rivers!!
 
#11 ·
A light coating of varnish seems like it would do the trick to solve the "slivers" issue. Heavy duty gloves, some time spent sanding it down and then thin the varnish down and do a light coat or two. I could be wrong...maybe call and ask Cataract what they recommend and if that sounds like an issue.

Down River had their sale the other day, and I'll admit I splurged and bought a set of Sawyer Square Top oars since they had a very decent discount. Honestly, by the time you get a wrapped and stopped oar shaft and a nice set of blades, its not that much more to go with the Square Tops and they sure are nice. Great flex, good strength, counterbalanced yet light weight and they still float. The only downside being you can't take the blade off. I got a pair of 11' with the Avon Pro rig I bought last year and when I bought a 12' raft recently I knew I wanted to get a pair for it too. It came with a set of Carlisles that I'll probably make friends use when they borrow the raft and I'll keep the Sqaure Tops for my use.

On Cascades site the 10' Sqaure Top is listed on sale for $359. The 10' cataract oar with rope rap and stop is $192 for the shaft plus $75 to $189 for a blade depending on what you get....so between $267 and $380 per oar. Once you get into the nicer blades, its kind of a wash.
 
#13 ·
A light coating of varnish seems like it would do the trick to solve the "slivers" issue. Heavy duty gloves, some time spent sanding it down and then thin the varnish down and do a light coat or two. I could be wrong...maybe call and ask Cataract what they recommend and if that sounds like an issue.
.
I believe that you are correct in the refinishing really old Cataracts. I looked into it once. A guy could easily drop 200 bones on sand paper, paint, and clean up to do 3 oars the right way. Thats like one new oar so I end up just buying new. I was going to sell them with a used boat once but felt bad and backed out. They are currently my loaners.
 
#12 ·
Yes, but I don't have rope wrap. I have plastic sleeves. I buy 303 by the gallon and use it up in about a year. I 303 all my gear at least once a year and for my precious gear more often. Some times its over kill but sun has killed a lot of my gear back in the day. 303 has really help me out. Or maybe today's gear is just better about UV rays.
 
#23 ·
Plus acetone, gloves, plastic buckets, paint brushes, and more. Another 30 +. Keeping a good temp for resin to set too. Stinky chemical mess. Not this time. Nothing happens for 30 dollars these days. Except busch pounders. :p

I redid and rewrapped mine...total hands on time of 4 hours for 2 sticks, 48 hours of waiting between spray coats...
turned out pretty darn good
did you use resin, varnish, or urethane? Thanks
 
#24 ·
Thanks for all the replies. I went with the sawyer MXS roped and balanced in red. With Duramax blades it was about $850. 3 square tops would be over $1000 as far as I could find and attached blades. I know way better blades so probably a push, but the Sawyers were stretching the budget anyways.
Just didn't want to spend $450 on Carlisles and then upgrade later.

Randy, I need that info sooner. I will keep them in mind for future oars. I also stayed away from wood just because it sounded like they take a bit of maintenance, especially in dry places like CO

Thanks again
 
#25 · (Edited)
I actually did this yesterday to a wooden kayak paddle that I repaired a crack in after picking it up in a consignment shop for $20. I did the blades only because the shaft is FG, after cutting the cracked blade along the grain and regluing it I finished and fiberglassed the paddle (I used the cloth to reniforce the blades as this was the original process so it was a little more invoved than just mixing the resin and applying). I used 1/2 pint of resin $17 a pint, four throw away brushes $5, 3 sq ft of FG cloth (8 sq ft $7), some sand paper , cheap vinyl gloves, and 4 cut off water bottles (to mix the resin) I had around the house. Took me 2 hours because I put on two coats of resin, completely dry and usable 2 hours after I was done. Came out fantastic. Net cost of repair and finish $29 (I still have enough resin and cloth left over that I could do it a second time if needed) so cut that in half $15. Do it outside when the weather is right, fumes are gone as soon as it sets...you only mix as much as you can use in 15 minutes cause that's the working limit of the resin once you put the hardener in.
 
#26 ·
Apologies if this is a stupid question but if sawyer square tops and cataract SGG's were cost neutral what would in everyone's opinion be the best combo for mutltiday, up to class IV rafting in ID, WA, CA and OR?

Sawyer square tops with dynelite blades

Cataract SGG with magnum blades

Cataract SGG with dynelite blades

The thought of taking dynelite blades down a low water fish ladder on Rogue seems like a bad idea.


Sent from my iPhone using Mountain Buzz
 
#28 ·
The extra reinforcement that Sawyer puts around the Dynelite blades is pretty burly and can take some abuse for sure. I do mostly deep rivers but I've hit them on rocks plenty and they do fine. I think something like a Carlisle blade is gonna break off before a Dynelite blade does. My 11' Square Tops have the XL version of the Dynelite that has the extra reinforcement around the entire blade instead of just the tip.

I can't say about the other oar and blade types since I've just been using the Squaretops. I like they they are counterbalanced but still float and seem to be plenty strong. They tend they flex instead of break, or at least to a point. I've had them pop off the pin a few times and the oar didn't seem any worse for wear. I did have one of my spare Dynelite blades catch on a very sharp rock while it was mounted to the side of the raft and it split the end, so they are completely bomb proof but still plenty durable.
 
#29 · (Edited)
I got my Cataracts used over 10 years ago. They would give me little slivers on my legs when I pulled them in, so I spent a couple of hours sanding them down and painting on some clear spar varnish. It held up pretty well until last season when I started getting the little slivers again, so I sanded and varnished them again (same $10 can and a "disposable) brush). I don't consider that a lot of maintenance time or cost. Mine have rope wraps too that have held up just fine without me needing to do anything. I have broken one magnum blade in that time period. I like the way the magnum blades float. I've never used counter weights, fwiw.

They are a lot nicer than the Carlisles i used previously.

I've never used Sawyers, so I can't speak to those.
 
#32 ·
On counterbalancing - I love it - it makes a huge difference. I bounce between boats a lot and I hate rowing my buddies non-balanced oars.

I will say, though that it's unlikely you'll need the full 2 nor certainly the 4lb handles sold by either company. The 5lb steel sleeve cataract sells is plainly stupid. Another reason I like sawyers is you can remove one screw and cut through the silicone calk and quickly remove a handle. Then I just buy a few 1lb spools of lead wire (fishing weight hollow core wire, 1/4") and figure out how much you need to get a good feeling counter weight without over doing it. My 10' oars have 1.5lbs and my 9.5'ers have 1 lb, for FWIW. Both still float perfectly flat on the water.
 
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