Rowing effort question - Page 2 - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 08-02-2016   #11
 
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Another thing that may make his life easier is the frame.. everything is rock solid from the frame to the oar towers.. there is no give at all so all the power is transferred from the boat to the river.. where you have a home made wood frame with oar towers attached.. if there is any give at all that is power that is being absorbed by the sloppy frame and not being transferred from the boat to the river.. even if your frame isn't lashed tight to your raft it can make a a big difference.

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Old 08-02-2016   #12
 
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I bought my boat based on this concept I spend a lot of time figuring out what makes a boat row better in current ie for fishing. Unfortunately I'm out fishing with the kids or fortunately for me. So I'll have to put my input in in the morning. But my guess at this point is or length is Paramount frame set up a second and boat balance third. A possible other major factor is construction of the bottom of the boat. Some deeper draft on their floors some less that can play a major role in how much effort it takes to hold and current. Good luck I'll reply back with more in the morning

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Old 08-02-2016   #13
 
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Sorry for all the typos, apparently voice recognition isn't as good as I thought it was
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Old 08-02-2016   #14
 
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I should have emphasized that 7 foot oars are way too short. 9 foot doors are much more appropriate when fishing out of a 13 foot boat.

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Old 08-02-2016   #15
 
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The 7' oars with 1' extensions were the right price at the time (80 nearly brand new for everything). So I knew I needed 9'ers, but these got me on the water.

Didn't think about frame flex and tightness of the frame to the boat. I bet I'm losing a lot of power between short flexible Carlisle oars, flexible frame, bad weight distribution, and loose-ish frame/boat straps

The good news is that I'm going with a metal frame from Gary at rowframe this year, which should solve a few of my problems. Thanks all.
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Old 08-02-2016   #16
 
Nye, Montana
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When you hold your oars parallel to the river with donut firmly against the oar locks, how any inches are between the end of the oar handles? 7' is way too short and 8' is also too short. I think the problem is that you have no power. Next time borrow your friends 9 footers for a few minutes and I bet it'll make a world of difference.

I used 8 ft oars on a 13 foot x 7 ft cat for a day and it was terrible. The 9 footers are pretty good but 9.5 foot oars would be perfect. No torque in my case with the 8 footers. Like you I got a screaming deal on them, but in my case they are barely use able as spares.
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Old 08-02-2016   #17
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattchu View Post
When you hold your oars parallel to the river with donut firmly against the oar locks, how any inches are between the end of the oar handles? 7' is way too short and 8' is also too short. I think the problem is that you have no power. Next time borrow your friends 9 footers for a few minutes and I bet it'll make a world of difference.

I used 8 ft oars on a 13 foot x 7 ft cat for a day and it was terrible. The 9 footers are pretty good but 9.5 foot oars would be perfect. No torque in my case with the 8 footers. Like you I got a screaming deal on them, but in my case they are barely use able as spares.

There's no space between the grips when I hold them parallel. They just about touch. I feel as if the oar towers were pushed out a bit the oars would sit more balanced and I'd have better leverage. That could be another issue.

The shorter oars actually came in quite handy in the small Michigan rivers I was rowing. Maybe I'll ditch them and get some longer ones when I get my new frame. I'll just pass the deal on to the next fella.
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Old 08-02-2016   #18
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One other consideration is how tight your boat is, especially the floor. A boat that's on the soft side will sit lower in the current, and be in water that is slightly faster then the water on the surface. Also, having a floor that is soft will particularly affect this, and you can loose a lot of performance from that as well. On the flip side, it can really help you out with a head wind on flat water.

If ya want to sell those 7'oars with the extensions, I could use a set of spares for my little cataraft?
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Old 08-02-2016   #19
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Got a pair of carlisle 8 1/2' shafts don't really need, if ya wanted em. Close to the 9' that sounds about right for your 13', maybe a touch short? might be okay though.
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Old 08-03-2016   #20
 
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It's an obvious question that's gotta be asked: was your buddy using his anchor in those runs?

We have a DRE San Juan frame, and there is an anchor built into it. It can fully stop you, of course, if it catches on something, but it can also slow you down considerably if it's out and just dragging bottom.

Didn't see anyone mention it, so thought I'd ask!
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