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Old 07-17-2015   #11
elkhaven's Avatar
Belgrade, Montana
Paddling Since: 1991
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,659
Not that I'd mind rowing you around to fish, but I get out quite a bit, they've got 80+ days on them. I really thought they'd loosen up more by now. Might have to try the 303 - but is the wrap considered fabric? Not sure I should risk it

Yesterday's gone on down the river and you can't get it back. - Agustus McCrae
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Old 07-17-2015   #12
AirEms's Avatar
GF, Montana
Paddling Since: 1983
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 95
I guess it all depends on how you work the oars. I learned a long time ago that there are power rowers and finesse oarsmen(women). When I was young and strong I wanted to beat the river into a froth with my power strokes and get the river to do what I wanted it to do. Then back in the early 90's I watched a lady row a stretch of big water and how few strokes she took and how perfectly she made that run. It turned my thinking and rowing around. She did it with rope wraps and open locks, in an 18' Rogue(not many of you will remember that beautiful orange boat) and she styled it. I had the pleasure of talking to her later and she gave me the best advice on rowing style I have ever gotten. But that's another story. Rope and cobras are the way to go if you want to feel the water and be able to feather. Standard brass locks tend to chew up rope due to the small surface area that they bite into. Cobras, in my opinion, are a better feel on the oar and the water. Sleeves tend to spin too easily for my liking, but I use big blades. I would love to try shole? cuts and see how they handle with rope wraps. Anyway, Use what works best for you, it's all good, and it's another day on the water.

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Old 07-17-2015   #13
zbaird's Avatar
Paddling Since: 1994
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 884
You'd think 80 days would have seasoned them up. That cobra brass must be hard. Maybe polish the hell out of the cobras. I have run with a guy whos will blind you when the sun hits them.

I guess regular locks would beat on the rope a little more but the sawyer rope holds up pretty well especially if it is tight and set in epoxy. The first oars I wrapped have got to have 300+ days on them and they are just starting to show wear. I bet I get 500 days out of them. I can deal with that kind of lifespan.

The shoal cuts are cool. I like rowing with them fishing. They scoop the water nicely and you can get a real bite even in shallow water. My buddy rows nothing but shoal cuts/cobras/wrap and swears by them in all kinds of water.
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Old 07-17-2015   #14
Wadeinthewater's Avatar
Walterville, Oregon
Paddling Since: 1977
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 559
Originally Posted by elkhaven View Post
Interesting, I have run NRS brass locks and rope wrap for most of my time boating, but a lot of my fishing buddies have sleeves and I really have never noticed an issue with ease of spin.... until last year, I added cobra's and brand new rope wrap to my rig last year and it's a whole different ball game. They don't spin well enough for my tastes, I've tried waxing the wrap, opening the locs a bit more and they're still too stiff (rotationally) for me. love every thing else about the setup, but I'm actually considering ditching the cobra's...

I typically don't row against the stop on any of my oars. I like the stop way inside so I can adjust how much oar I have in or out of the lock... that came from my old drift boat where I'd have to slide sideways on the seat to balance the boat due to the fishermen standing way off center.
The biggest difference for me between a plastic sleeve and a rope wrap is length. The plastic sleeves sitting on my shelf have about 9 1/2 inches between the end of the sleeve and the stopper. My rope wraps have 16-17 inches between the end of the wrap and the stopper. Like Elkhaven, I learned to row in a drift boat and I don't row on the stoppers. Sometimes I grip the oar handles, but I also often pull the oars in a bit and grip the oar shaft next to the handle and as a result, I use the entire length of the wrap.

Ditto on the Cobras. I bought a pair, used them once and now they live on a shelf. They grab the oar way too much.
Real adventure is only one bad decision away.
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Old 07-17-2015   #15
Salida, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1986
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 727
They are both fine!
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Old 07-18-2015   #16
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 5
Originally Posted by DoStep View Post
They are both fine!

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Old 07-18-2015   #17
East MT, WestMT, Both sides of the Yellowstone
Paddling Since: 09
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,112
Just get you some pro-loks and you wont need either. Then you can run open for feathering or locked in the heavy stuff. And your oars will be there for you when you re flip. Its also the cheapest of the three options
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Old 07-18-2015   #18
Bayfield, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1980
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 79
So spider your still loving the pro-locks a year in. Did they ever get the shrink wrap thing dialed in? Kind of seems to me the best thing out there, best of both worlds plus in a catastrophic fu they will release and possibly save a spendy oar shaft.
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Old 07-19-2015   #19
East MT, WestMT, Both sides of the Yellowstone
Paddling Since: 09
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,112
I've got well over 1000 miles between my 18' gear boat and my cat (lodore, MFS, Lower salmon, two selways, 250 miles on the lochsa, high water Gallatin, Belt, smith, bear trap, bitterroot, Yellowstone, upper main) and yes I do believe they are the best option out there. The new shrink wrap works very well.

I've also had them upside down at least 4 times and my oars stayed in place every time.

I've had them for two and a half seasons.
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Old 09-06-2015   #20
NOCO, Colorado
Paddling Since: 68
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 143
Rope wrap an oar for $5. Buy a plastic sleeve $15 (used to be $3.50 until they spun off that product). Rope is quiet and doesn't slide like the plastic. In a quiet canyon, one can hear the plastic banging on the oarlock for a mile or more.>>noise pollution

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