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Rope Wrap on Oars? Why?

31K views 45 replies 17 participants last post by  zbaird 
#1 ·
Ive never had rope wrapped oars but a lot of people out there seem to have them. Whats the advantage? To me it seems like it is just an old time way of protecting the shaft. So, why wouldn't you just use the plastic molded sleeve? Am I missing something?
 
#7 ·
So, why wouldn't you just use the plastic molded sleeve? Am I missing something?
Everyone has their preference and will tell you why they are better. I've rowed Carlilse's, Cats, and Sawyers (as many buzzards have) and for me personally I like Cats with a rope wrap. After rowing Carlilses for years I found the plastic sleeve to be too short for the way I like to row. I don't use oar rights because I like to feather my oar strokes and I run my oar stops closer to the the handle so I have to pull them in just a bit to get to a proper oar stroke position. So my oars tend 'float' in the oar lock when I am rowing. My rowing style found the plastic sleeves too short for this and I was popping oars more often than I cared for.

For me the rope wrap was about function. Much better suited for my style of rowing than the sleeve. My 2 cents FWIW.
 
#8 ·
1) Noise Pollution: If ya want to sneak up on the critters, dump the plastic. When the plastic sleeves slap the lock and it bounces off the canyon walls....ya-all think it was 5th Ave in Manhatten , 2) Plastic outgasses and potentially destroys the ozone layer 3) A purest would make it from hemp and smoke the byproduct as well as the old one when re-wrapping. 4) They wont let you into heaven with plastic sleeves.....5) Increased friction and better positioning with rope wraps 6) you cannot be cool without rope wraps ...7) improves your chances of winning the lottery.....if by chance that's your retirement vehicle 8) cost $7 rope opposed to $50 for a set of three....with respect to item 7)
 
#9 ·
Besides all the great feedback above, rope also protects the oar shafts from oarlocks which can tend to tear them up where not covered, and the plastic sleeves are pretty short. Sawyer uses 24" length and occasionally will do 30" wraps for a lot of guides who like to stand and row, as this tends to pull the shaft upward beyond normal rope zone. The other thing that I have found is that while rope is typically used for oarlocks, if you ever decide to use pins & clips, the clip can attached right on top of the rope making the oar more versatile.

Ps-not all rope is created equal, best stuff that I have found is what Sawyer uses. And yes, I am partial to Sawyer!

Hope this helps!
 
#17 ·
The rope in my mobile torture chamber ended up being the right size to rewrap oars. Now just to source some of this rope to replenish my mobile torture chamber (wasn't using the mobile torture chamber as much as my oars at the time).


Sent from my iPhone using Mountain Buzz
 
#18 ·
Sorry I had some technology issues and was unable to upload any photos but here are a few taken in my stairwell in-between storms the other day and a brief description of my process. One oar in the photos is a Carlisle and the other is a wooden oar.


My method is to set my frame on my tailgate and use the frame straps to secure it to the stanchions and then put some stools or saw horses on the other end to support your frame for wrapping. Then put the oar through the oar locks so you have some sticking out each end. I also use a cam strap to hang the spool of rope off the far end of the frame so that the rope comes off clean and not twisted by being set on the floor and once you have this setup you are ready to go.

I usually unravel the first 4 inches or so of nylon rope and use a small piece of duct tape(some say to use two sided tape) to secure it to the oar where I want to begin wrapping and then start my wrap making sure the frayed part of the rope is staying underneath my wrap lengthwise. I like to begin on the handle side and finish on the blade end as my theory is the side you begin on with be the cleanest and flattest because the rope is frayed and lays down very flat and that is the area the oar stopper will secure to. It works best to have a second person twisting the oar for you so that you can guide the rope on to the oar as tight as possible and a leather glove is helpful also for the hand guiding the rope as there is a lot of friction. I also stop periodically(every 4” or so) and tap my wrapping tight with a hammer as I go along.

Once you get to the far end of your wrap where you want to begin your finishing wraps(the last 4” or so) you will need to lay your filament or thin line down and again using a small piece of tape to keep it secure while wrapping over it is helpful. This section of wrap does not need to be as tight because you're going to need to pay the tail of your rope underneath that finished section to complete your wrap. Once you have pulled the tail through and cut off the excess rope you will then want to stand the oar upright and using your body weight and a twisting motion in the same direction or your wrap to tighten the last bit of rope very securely to the oar and it will snug itself as you move it along until it is extremely tight. You are now finished and ready to apply your coatings of spray shellac to harden the rope, then add your oar stopper of choice and you are ready to hit the river.

The link below provides a more step by step direction with photos and is what I used to understand the process and get started originally and you will figure out your own best practices as you do a few. In this link the guy uses 2 sided tape which I didn’t find needed(used duct tape) and he also uses a hook to help pull the rope through the final wraps but I didn’t need that either but use some very heavy duty cord to pull the final tail part through prior to cutting off the extra. Good luck and happy to try to help if I can.

http://www.piscatorialpursuits.com/resourcecenter/oarwapping.htm
 

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#22 ·
Who is this secret weaver making the best rope in the world?

The best rope I have found, and use, is the rope Sawyer uses. They had the rope special made for them with way more density/ thread count than any other rope I have found. I am not brand partial, I just want to use the best rope for the longevity of my customers oars so please, do share.
 
#30 ·
Woundabout, Mt Pilot NC

Who is this secret weaver making the best rope in the world?

The best rope I have found, and use, is the rope Sawyer uses. They had the rope special made for them with way more density/ thread count than any other rope I have found. I am not brand partial, I just want to use the best rope for the longevity of my customers oars so please, do share.
Not a secret to most in the east. Same location featured on Mayberry RFD. Send me a piece of sawyers rope and we can compare in a formal environment, weight, tensile etc. It may be that saw... uses the same but marks it up 1200%. They make mighty fine chicken line as well as anchor line but the minimum is 2000 ft ish.
 
#34 ·
<P>
While this subject is up though, why is polyester rope not used. It generally has less stretch, more abrasion resistance than nylon.
</P>
<P> *</P>
<P>Sir Curtis...You got it backwards.  Nylon has higher strength and higher ductility than polypro.  This holds for rope, straps and the base fibers.  The reason is a tighter bond....good write up on Wikipedia w/r crosslinking.  The rope in question is braided and that braid allows high elongation.  That elongation can be checked with resin, shellac, lacquer.....wicked into the finished product.</P>
 
#37 ·
Lotta Zac,,Zachs in this industry

Neither. That is Zach Sack. I'm Zach Baird. Kinda confusing having both major repair facilities owners named Zach. Not the first time people have gotten us mixed up. He doesnt rope wrap though. I used to be in wheatridge, I am near salida now.
There is a Zac at sawyer as well, several affiliated with a boat mfgs and retailers... arguhhhh! When in grade school, did they call your name last?
*
Back on topic...The literature implies polyester is better at abrasion and nylon is better at impact...doubt seriously if ASTM has test applicable to an oar lock shaft connection. Both fibers have similar strength. Any proper test would mimic the longitudinal and rotational action consistent with and oar stroke. The bearing area and material of the oarlock as well as the coefficient of friction in the oarlock seat would obviously be a parameter of concern. There is also the affect of the resin on the rope as it participates in the effort. There is also price.......and origin of manufacture. USA rope at 12 cents a foot...8.25 cents a foot in quantity made by in the USA. Next some yahoo will come up with a paraffin lubrication and call it speed lube....claiming it makes one row faster and more efficient by reducing friction thereby eliminating the need for oar crutches. Speed lube $39.95?
 
#38 ·
I only had one other Zach all of my school years. I dont know where all these other guys are coming from, but it is true, there are a bunch of us in the industry. Seem to be taking it over really. Maybe thats why I can't seem to get a permit anymore. I could start going by my middle name but then I'd get flamed for being a sheister, taking peoples money and not delivering product. What a PITA.
 
#39 ·
The last group of posts (not relating to which Zach is which) might be amongst the most ridiculous in recent moons on the buzz. Really, it's just rope wrap - I for one have yet to have catastrophic rope failure. Maybe I should start bringing spare rope just in case?

I can see a discussion on friction - more or less; which is better? and to some degree abrasion resistance. Even though there really isn't much abrasion with bronze oar locks. But strength - Seriously, it doesn't need much and what strength it has is orders of magnitude greater than it will ever experience.

Seriously,cooler color's impact on ice longevity is way more important than this BS.
 
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