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Old 09-04-2009   #11
 
Denver, Colorado
Paddling Since: 70s
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 46
so Kingfisher....where is Brewer Welding/Rodney and what is the area code of the phone number?????????
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Old 09-04-2009   #12
 
poncha springs, Colorado
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 14
salida 719
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Old 09-06-2009   #13
 
Brushfire830's Avatar
 
New Castle, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1994
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 52
I bought my rollers from Trailer parts superstore, it is also where I buy most of my trailer parts, they are inexpensive and quick. My is for a cat but have a friend that used the same rollers for a raft and they work great.

shop.easternmarine.com/
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Old 09-16-2009   #14
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rwhyman's Avatar
 
Unincorporated Douglas County, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2005
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 942
I finally got some photos of the roller on my trailer. It's made out of an old roller from a RV awning. In the last photo, you can also see the rollers on the upper side decks for the cat.

FYI, my 14 ft. SB will slide onto the bottom deck with a winch. I also use the winch to get the cat on top. If I'm only hauling the cat, I can drop the side decks down about 7 in.



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Old 09-16-2009   #15
 
poncha springs, Colorado
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 14
hey now,there you go! those look good.
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Old 03-25-2010   #16
willpaddle4food
 
Fruita, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1995
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 60
Fabricating roller bearings

Spent a while reading all the trailer mojo and finally decided to go ahead and make a roller bearing as described. Turned out to be pretty easy, although the pictures may help clarify it. The roller bearing that fits into 1&1/4 EMT conduit is 1&3/8 OD, and cost about $5 each. They come in a variety of sizes of internal hole, but 9/16 ID worked well in this application
If you use a pipe cutter to cut the conduit it will compress it just enough to make pressing the bearing in more difficult, so I'd advise sawing it. Cut it a bit long.
Rather than fabricate an elbow, I chose to buy gate hardware (again, about $5 each) to put on the rollers. Since I was mounting it in wood, I just drilled a 1/2 hole and slipped the bolt in, and tightened from below. Tightening the top nut allows you to raise or lower the bar a bit. I first mounted the conduit to one side, then, before putting the gate hardware through the wood of the trailer, I slipped it into the conduit, and then lowered the bolt down into the pilot hole.
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Old 03-25-2010   #17
willpaddle4food
 
Fruita, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1995
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 60
Oops. Here should be the pictures
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Old 03-25-2010   #18
 
mttodd's Avatar
 
billings, Montana
Paddling Since: Tues
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 218
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Nice job on the roller install, simple and clean. I've installed quite a few rollers on peoples trailers using the above mentioned radial bearings and would like to suggest a couple of things for anybody interested. The first, and probably the most helpful, being the use of gas pipe, usually available at the same hardware store you get the bearings. The gas pipe is just schedule 40 steel pipe, and doesn't flex nearly as bad as emt does with a loaded boat. The second being a light coat of jb weld applied to the interior of the pipe and a little on the bearing surface below the retaining lip. The jb weld will keep the bearings from rattling loose out of the pipe over time and dirt roads. Never used gate hardware before, but it looks good. I've always used steel or aluminum plates, depending on the trailer, on the outside that I drilled and tapped for 1/2" by 13 thread bolts. The bearing rides on the bolt on the inside of the plate, and is easily taken out by removing one bolt. Hope it helps.
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Old 03-25-2010   #19
willpaddle4food
 
Fruita, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1995
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 60
You're right about the JB weld I think. Because I had to cut the pipe a second time, it was a little short, and the bearings wanted to come loose (It took absolutely no skill, tools, or strength to push those bearings in - snug easy fit.) I taught myself how to spotweld today, but then I had to grind off the sharp spots on the conduit/bearing interface. Would have been simpler to use JB Weld. Damnit! Why didn't you post that earlier?

Looking at the job now, I see that it cost about $30, and it would have been better if I'd used two different lengths of pipe to handle the load, which would have cost about $50 total. It's just for a 12foot cat, so I think in this case it'll work. Doesn't that black gas pipe a) rust and, b) weigh a ton?
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Old 03-25-2010   #20
 
mr. compassionate's Avatar
 
conifer, Colorado
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 888
sanford and son method...i outfitted my trailer with the likes of these from home depot. Works like a charm but may not last forever.
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