Raising Oarlocks - Page 2 - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 08-23-2016   #11
 
Ashland, Oregon
Paddling Since: 1992
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Can you post a close-up of the sched 80 in the oar lock? Can't quite see it and my first thought is that the pipe would crack under use/pressure....thanks, Bongo

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Old 08-24-2016   #12
 
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Up North, Oregon
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Click on the photo it blows way up. No it doesn't crack, I have been using the same bushings for over 10 years.
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Old 08-24-2016   #13
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shappattack View Post
Click on the photo it blows way up. No it doesn't crack, I have been using the same bushings for over 10 years.
I don't think I posted a link to the correct type of pipe I use to cut the bushings. I haven't bought some in over a decade. I see if I can find the correct reference.
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Old 08-24-2016   #14
 
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Salem, Oregon
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Thanks for the helpful responses. Here are some pictures of my current setup and what I am trying to do. A couple pics show my current 3" shank oarlock with a 1" nylon spacer, and another without the spacer.

The pics with the kids are there just because they were being cute when I was out with the camera

Again, the main concern is whether or not I am going to bend the Oarlock by raising it like this. I think that it is more likely than without raising, as it adds additional leverage, but I don't know how much it will matter.
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Old 08-24-2016   #15
 
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Why not take it to the welder and have them weld the proper sized rainbow on the frame for you? It won't be that expensive, and it will be a permanent fix you won't have to worry about failing.

That is a nice set up, I think it would be worth the extra cost.
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Old 08-24-2016   #16
Gary F
 
Philipsburg, Montana
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Is it a steel tube frame? I have always made my own frames. I have had to cut and remake the oar tower myself for the same reason. Fortunately, I figured it out before going on the river. For your boat, i would keep the 8.5 footers. Since I am also 5'3" I have had to always have a custom frame. Back in the commercial days, it was interesting to say the least, rowing boats where I couldn't reach anything with my feet. Now, all of my frames are fully adjustable just in case one of my friends wants to borrow my set up.
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Old 08-24-2016   #17
 
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Another fairly easy option you can do yourself is change over to pins/clips, then you can have a lot of vertical play options to dial in a correct height with the existing frame.
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Old 08-24-2016   #18
 
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Salem, Oregon
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Thanks for the suggestion Shapp. I've used pins and clips a bunch already and want to move away from them. My plan is to take the rights off for myself as I learn to row without the training wheels and put them on for my wife.

kokoroltd: the frame is aluminum.

I should have perhaps mentioned that one of the reasons I am reluctant to cut the frame is that my wife also want to row, and I don't want to put a tower too high for her in there. I'd prefer to have a variable height using spacers. But all else failing I will certainly default to that option.
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Old 08-24-2016   #19
 
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at my house, Montana
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generally it is not recommended to shim your oarlock up. The strength of the shaft is not made to withstand those increased forces at the top. Or so I am told.....

You have two options. One is AAA and one is DRE. They have very different geometry and are not interchangeable. AAA is if your frame is wide (or the tilted tower position) and you want to bring the lock in. Use DRE for the opposite. We started with AAA and had to switch to DRE for better geometry.

both of those can be ordered to any height.

Oar towers

Down River Oar Tower | Oars | Accessories

Note for both you also need the tower base, and it is frame brand specific.

Edit- dang it, I just read the comments and saw your photos, so this advice won't work. I will leave it for future reference for others. I would probably switch locks to the aluminum NRS ones, as they are stronger, and shim the heck out of them! Get a shit-ton of washers from NRS (from the spring set) to use as shims if you can find nothing else.
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Old 08-24-2016   #20
 
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Salem, Oregon
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Thanks for the info, and the links!

I'm interested in others who have been shimming their oar towers have had bad results? So far several have said they do, and no one has chimed in about a plethora of mangled oar locks. Either of these option will still require me to cut off my current towers it looks like, in which case I will just have new custom ones put on once I get the frame in a welders hands.

Edit: Just saw your edit Thanks!
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