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Old 04-08-2009   #1
whitefish, Montana
Paddling Since: 00
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 37
raft repairs

I need to replace some d rings on my pvc raft. what is the best way to remove the old ones? will clifton adhesive work on pvc materials,and can i use hypalon patches on pvc? thanks for any information.

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Old 04-09-2009   #2
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 133
Send a message via ICQ to northfwestg

no hypo on pvc dude, bring it to my shop and we will fix er up, 406-250-8890,

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Old 04-09-2009   #3
Rafter Town, California
Paddling Since: 08
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 63
Repair guide

Originally Posted by whitefish View Post
I need to replace some d rings on my pvc raft. what is the best way to remove the old ones? will clifton adhesive work on pvc materials,and can i use hypalon patches on pvc? thanks for any information.
No Hypo on PVC--you can use PVC glue on Hypo, but not Hypo glue on PVC.
Aso for removal--defalte raft and use a $14.99-19.99 Harbor Freight Tools heat gun with some channel locks / vice grips to heat and slowly pull off. Go slow, heat slow, dont rush!!

On the reglue--clean off all the old glue, clean with Toloul, resand it--remove ALL dust. Put on a VERY thin coat of glue--let dry 24 hrs. Repeat--let 2nd coat dry 24 hrs. Then use a lint free cloth to wipe toloul to "re-activate" the glue on both ends. Add d-ring to INFLATED raft and press as hard as possible. After rolling--deflate and roll the hell out of it all with a rasp or other item.

The 24 hr periods really allow the glue to properly set up for a high stress item like a dring. Patches are not some much of an issue. Foot cups also really do well with the 24 hr thing!

Good luck!
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Old 04-09-2009   #4
Boulder, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2001
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 212
I haven't heard of the 24 hour dry time. Not saying it doesn't work, just haven't heard it. Definitely need to be thorough with removing the old glue and cleaning.

When I guided commercially here's what we did. We put a thin coat of glue on the area to receive the item and the item itself and let that dry (no longer tacky). We then applied a second coat of glue to the area to receive the item and when that was tacky, flashed it, then put on the D-ring, handle, patch, footcup, whatever. And as above, roll the hell out of it... or air in this case. I don't think it really matters if the boat is inflated or not, whatever is easiest to ensure you don't get air bubbles or creases. This technique is what the manufacturer recommended for the boats we were using, mostly Hyside and Vanguard. We rarely had repairs fail and when they did it was usually because the repair/replacement wasn't thorough.

Doesn't hurt to try to call whoever manufactured your boat to get recommendations on materials, glue, and technique.
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Old 04-09-2009   #5
Westminster, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1999
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 524
I was told to use the 24-hr wait time thing once and just ended up with a bunch of sand in my glue. 1st coat dry, then 2nd coat tacky, then stick it together has worked for the glue work I have done on my Maravias. 4 D-rings and 4 donuts around new valves - no failures yet (knock on wood).
Also, I think toluol is better for hypalon while MEK is preferred for plastic, but I would check with the manufacturer. Both of them are pretty nasty - you can almost feel your brain cells calling it quits unless you're out in a stiff breeze. is offline   Reply With Quote


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