Raft Porn Needed -Let's see them rigs!!! - Page 96 - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 07-31-2014   #951
 
TV, Idaho
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 166
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Originally Posted by orto11 View Post
Pretty sure I mentioned the problem with these before and got the 3rd degree. I find it much easier just to buy the box with the handles that work from the company that has been making for years with latches.

Although you guys do like to take the long way around to try and not buy something that works. Cut of your nose to spite your face kinda deal I think. " ya,I want to buy a new box and have to plasti-dip it or wrap it or sand it or rebuild the whole sumbitch because it is a bad design to start with" WAKE UP!
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I'm sure you never tweak anything after purchasing it. It just comes to you like manna from heaven, perfect for your exact application 100% of the time.

Right, wrong, or indifferent - your delivery sucks and you seem to have it out for some people. Those are the issues that get you the third degree more so than simply offering a contrasting opinion.

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Old 07-31-2014   #952
 
TV, Idaho
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 166
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Originally Posted by mowgli View Post
Dusty at River Gypsies has these boxes made by Eddy Out. They use a large butterfly attached to the frame to clip into the handle. The handles are fantastic for carrying but… they do present a potential hazard as they have a lot of sharp edges. I did a temporary fix by giving them a triple wrap of gaffer tape thus taking the sharp edge away. I'm planning to use a product like PlastiDip to do a permanent rubber cover. I talked to a guy that had virtually the same design from RecreTec and had someone fillet their hand during a flip. He riveted some leather over some of the edges. It still left a lot of exposed sharp. I'm figuring the rubber dip will cover the whole thing and make for a very comfortable handle. Although The latch in boxes are really nice I still rigged one strap over each in case the boat goes upside-down and the cans hit a rock or something. I kept it out of the way unless we were coming into any meat. Then I'd simply pop it over the top to get my "insurance". Same for the Canyon Cooler. It ties in from the handles so no over the top straps are "needed". But I wasn't going to trust that in a flip.
I have been seriously considering cutting the handles off of my eddy out boxes. I was thinking I would cut the handle off and leave a nice rounded tab sticking up for the butterfly latch. Then I would rivet on some standard spring loaded hinges above that. I'm not sure. I love how convenient the butterfly latches are, but I really hate the exposed edges. I also don't like that having the butterflies on the short ends of the boxes makes it much more difficult to design and make side boards because you have to have room to get your hand in there to turn the butterfly latch. I don't think I would go with that style again. It isn't anyone else's fault; I asked for it that way. It just fits my needs less than I anticipated. Live and learn.
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Old 07-31-2014   #953
 
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Niwot, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2005
Join Date: Aug 2013
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Originally Posted by cataraftgirl View Post
On the first raft that I used webbing on, I used 1 inch polyester tubular webbing. For the Sotar, Strapworks didn't have the patterns in the polyester 1 inch tubular, so I went with the flat webbing. It works just as well as the tubular. I also had all my straps done in the patterned polyester. I got the padded cam buckle for the perimeter line, so more buckle rubbing on the raft. The biggest thing to remember is to not get nylon webbing. It stretches quite a bit when wet, and doesn't last as long in a wet environment.
Cataraftgirl and I went back and forth on this setup quite a bit. I've now done 4 or 5 trips with this config and it's awesome. Very adjustable, low profile, still easy to grab. For clarification, strapworks did have 1" tubular polyester in stock when we did this, but they were having issues sublimating it which included applying a solid color. They said I could order it if I didn't mind some imperfections or if I wanted white. It looks like they have resolved this because the colors are now order-able. I've also moved to polyester for my frame straps.
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Old 07-31-2014   #954
 
Yukon, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 92
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Originally Posted by elkhaven View Post
Yukon - I loved the seat It was mounted to a piece of plywood and strapped to the top of my drybox. I had two 1 1/4" runners under it so it sat a little higher and had beer holders cut into either side. It was awesome...I reiterate WAS cause I left it sitting on a rock at the take out . I highly recommend it, it was comfy and will be building another soon...
Thanks. Did you have it attached via the quick disconnect swivel base - or permanently screwed to the plywood? I've got three of the tempress seats and really like the quick disconnect - but haven't had them long enough to judge durability of the quick disconnect feature.
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Old 07-31-2014   #955
 
Yukon, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by cataraftgirl View Post
On the first raft that I used webbing on, I used 1 inch polyester tubular webbing. For the Sotar, Strapworks didn't have the patterns in the polyester 1 inch tubular, so I went with the flat webbing. It works just as well as the tubular. I also had all my straps done in the patterned polyester. I got the padded cam buckle for the perimeter line, so more buckle rubbing on the raft. The biggest thing to remember is to not get nylon webbing. It stretches quite a bit when wet, and doesn't last as long in a wet environment.
Thanks. So - polyester 1 inch flat or tube webbing I'm understanding along with padded cam buckle? All the perimeter lines I've seen up here were rope - but I like the webbing idea better. Have never considered attaching the perimeter line via cam buckle - but can see how that would make for easy removal and/or tightening. My 18' Sotar is the same Red color as yours but with Gray patches/top chafe/floor - which is what drew me to your picture Searching the web site, I saw the skull pattern with red skull on black webbing so figure you special ordered the black skull on Red webbing. I might try the red webbing with "gray" skull. Don't worry - no chance we'll ever run into each other's Red Sotars
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Old 07-31-2014   #956
 
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Sandy, Utah
Paddling Since: 1997
Join Date: Jun 2009
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Originally Posted by Yukon77 View Post
Thanks. So - polyester 1 inch flat or tube webbing I'm understanding along with padded cam buckle? All the perimeter lines I've seen up here were rope - but I like the webbing idea better. Have never considered attaching the perimeter line via cam buckle - but can see how that would make for easy removal and/or tightening. My 18' Sotar is the same Red color as yours but with Gray patches/top chafe/floor - which is what drew me to your picture Searching the web site, I saw the skull pattern with red skull on black webbing so figure you special ordered the black skull on Red webbing. I might try the red webbing with "gray" skull. Don't worry - no chance we'll ever run into each other's Red Sotars
No special order. Just their regular skull & cross bones pattern. At the time I ordered they had the sublimation issue on the tubular webbing, but I have to say that I like the flat webbing just as well. Time will tell about how the color holds up. I like that I can adjust the webbing to keep it tight when needed, and take it off completely if I need to. Plus, with the pattern it looks cool.
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Old 07-31-2014   #957
 
East of the Pine beatle, Colorado
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Two loop straps- 1" flat polyester webbing with a padded cam buckle. Order it 2' longer than your boat. Works great- stays tight.

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Old 08-01-2014   #958
 
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Belgrade, Montana
Paddling Since: 1991
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,875
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Originally Posted by Yukon77 View Post
Thanks. Did you have it attached via the quick disconnect swivel base - or permanently screwed to the plywood? I've got three of the tempress seats and really like the quick disconnect - but haven't had them long enough to judge durability of the quick disconnect feature.
No, you don't want your rowers seat to pivot, tried that once very difficult. It was permanently bolted to the plywood. I do use the quick connects on the front and rear seats, very nice to take off while trailering as you can actually see past the boat in the mirror but they do pop off on occasion. Seems to depend on the passenger but my dad, who sits right on the front edge of the seat all the time has them slip off several times a day. I have never had it come off, my wife once, etc. I think if you sit normally in the seat they're fine but if you have folks that sit way out on the edge they may come off... I've been brainstorming a way to "pin" them in place... a removable pin, bolt or the like so that they cannot fall off but haven't hit on an idea worth trying yet.
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Old 08-01-2014   #959
 
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Belgrade, Montana
Paddling Since: 1991
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As far as perimeter line - I do the same as cat, I got my webbing from US cargo, 300' roll was about $60 and I remade all my straps. I didn't measure my perimiter line, just wrapped it around and cut it with 6" extra. I made a pad for the buckle with a small piece of patch material...

post 26 on this thread:Webbing as Perimeter Line has pictures and more discussion on the concept.
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Old 08-01-2014   #960
 
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seattle, Washington
Paddling Since: 1983
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 146
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Originally Posted by elkhaven View Post
Could you simply sand or file the edges of the aluminum so they're rounded vs coating in rubber? I've used plastidip on several projects and once it gets torn it falls apart rather easily... AL is very easy to work.

I considered that and plan on taking the edge down prior to dipping. I'm hoping the dipping process creates a strong/thick coat. Similar to the rubber grips on a pair of pliers. I'll start with two coats and see how that looks. More coats if needed. Did you use the spray or do a liquid dip in the past?


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