Raft Porn Needed -Let's see them rigs!!! - Page 83 - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 03-27-2014   #821
 
cataraftgirl's Avatar
 
Sandy, Utah
Paddling Since: 1997
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,287
Quote:
Originally Posted by ENDOMADNESS View Post
Cataraftgirl....hmmm to be honest i dont think ive opened the cooler in the bay! just slapped it together and took that photo, and started on sideboards (boat not really even inflated). I'll have to check that.
If so, i will add some width in that bay by really utilizing the drop bag. Like you said i could get rid of the drop bag and just use my lip of the cooler and loop strap over top (like your canyon 105)...but only if it opens.

Yeah, i love how both items are totally level.
Just threw the cooler in the drop bag today. That raises the cooler up enough to fully open it, and it puts the latches in a better position. I see you have the cooler in front of the dry box. I'm trying to decide about that? I just noticed the extra handles you've added in your bow/passenger area. Nice idea....grab spot for passengers & a place for them to clip in their day bags.

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Old 04-04-2014   #822
 
Seattle, Washington
Paddling Since: 1982
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmacc View Post
I was wondering if the diminish tube design would not be as bouncy as a ST?
tmmac - I've run a 16' SL raft as my primary multi-day boat since 2002. Completed multiple trips on the Colorado, Selway, MFS etc. In haystack wave trains my boat cuts through the top of the wave whereas ST's ride up over the top of the wave. The ride is very noticeably different between the two boat shapes; by cutting through the wave the SL stays much more level compared to the bow of the ST which will get elevated to quite high angles. When hitting a tall cresting wave, a passenger in the bow of an SL can be totally engulfed by the wave whereas that same passenger in an ST can get catapulted skyward. As a rower I much prefer the SL at that instant in particular as the flatter ride means I am looking downstream at the next wave while in the ST my view is blocked by the boat. So, yes, the SL is not as "bouncy" as the ST.
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Old 04-04-2014   #823
 
Seattle, Washington
Paddling Since: 1982
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 3
Getting back on thread, I think the most important things to think about when creating a new rig are versatility and your particular needs. Don't just blindly buy a frame and dry boxes out of outfitter catalogs, first spend a good amount of time thinking what you want your rig to be capable of doing e.g. Do you want to be able to transport it by airplane to get into/out of certain wilderness rivers ? Do you want to be sleep on your boat to enjoy the cooler air in the heat of summer ? Do you want to be able to interchange the cargo on your boat to different locations ? Do you want to be able to shower on your boat etc.
All rafting gear is expensive, but custom built gear isn't that much more expensive than standard offerings ... sometimes just having one or two things custom built can be the difference between your rig giving you everything you need or feeling that you are compromised in some way.
I'll dig out some photos to post of my rig to show how I designed it to provide the versatility and needs for the trips I enjoy.
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Old 04-04-2014   #824
 
Park City, Utah
Paddling Since: 1982
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 548
Thanks Phil, that's the kind of input I was hoping for. I'm with you on the "take the time to design for your needs" theme. We bought both of our cats/frames used and bought various accessories based on price as much as utility. Not that I want to blow the bank on this thing, but I want it right.

I thought I wanted a welded frame or a modular welded frame, but after seeing some of the rigs on this thread, I'm reconsidering that idea. I know I don't want an NRS frame. Our 10' NRS cat frankenframe weights 175#. In the back of our heads is the idea of eventually doing an Alaskan wilderness trip one these years, so some form of breakdown frame would be ideal. A friend of ours that we've been on two GC trips with, welded a sweet breakdown frame with speed rail, diamond plate and 1-5/8'' alum. pipe. Designed to slept on, the dryboxes, capt. footwell dryboxes, and cooler are all on the same plane. Unfortunately, I'm not a welder, but there seem to be enough on this forum that could handle it when we're ready.
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Old 04-04-2014   #825
 
Rockgizmo's Avatar
 
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 88
Here's a few photos of my cat. I bought the frame from Row Frames a few years ago and have been tinkering with making the frame a nice day frame and overnight frame.
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Old 04-04-2014   #826
 
Missoula, Montana
Paddling Since: 2005
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 60
Nice clean setup Rockgizmo. How is your seat attached? Can you swing it out of the way for access to your dropbag?
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Old 04-04-2014   #827
 
Meichorn's Avatar
 
salt lake city, Utah
Paddling Since: 2011
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 19
Rockgizmo, i too an curious about the seat. Just put my frame together from RowFrame, Gary is awesome to work with, and am interested in adding a seat over my drybox
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Old 04-04-2014   #828
 
Rockgizmo's Avatar
 
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 88
I picked up the flip seat bracket from RowFrames ($45). It attaches to the front bar and its held in place by set screws. I plan on pinning the flange to the cross bar instead of the set screws. This would allow me to increase or decrease the bay size under the chair. I can then pivot the chair and cross bar together with pins on the outside. Under the seat plate Gary has added support so the flange can support the rower without having to have the back of the seat sit on a cross bar in the back. I like the 2nd cross bar because it creates a nice area for storage.

The the flange wont fit over of a drybox because of the support. And it doesn't have a rise on it.
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Old 04-04-2014   #829
 
Seattle, Washington
Paddling Since: 1982
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 3
As promised, here are some pics of my 16' Sotar SL rig in various configurations for multi-day trips. It is a speed rail type frame (DRE) so I can break it down for air transportation and so I can reconfigure (for technical and big water rivers I have the rowers bay in the center so I can turn the boat on a dime and be weight forward for hole punching power … for float trips I put the rowers bay at the rear so we have a nice big deck up front for lawn chairs). It always has 3 cargo bays of identical size each usually with a drop bag, there are two reasons for this:
  1. So I can interchange my cargo between bays to ensure my boat is well balanced during the full duration of the trip (e.g. as the cooler empties and the goovers fill then I swap their location in the boat)
  2. So I can tailor my cargo specifically for the needs of a particular trip (I don't always take my drybox, ditto my cooler, sometimes I take 2 coolers, sometimes everything is merely in drybags)
The cargo bay size was chosen to suit a variety of different containers I've collected with a common dimension of approximately 18inches; including most coolers of about 120qrts, rocket boxes, 5-gal NATO water containers, Pelican 1520 cases and my custom built drybox.
I have a plywood floor that I use in the rowers compartment on most trips. On evenings I pull this plywood out, swing my seat and footbar into the foot well and the floor then perfectly fits on top my frame. The custom built drybox was purposely designed to be low profile so the top is flush with the plywood creating a continuous flat deck large enough to sleep 2 people fully stretched out (with heads on the cooler). The drybox fills the complete width of my boat to act as a thwart (yes, the ends of the drybox fit tight between the tubes. I glued patches of hypalon to the ends to avoid staining or chafing the tubes). As this drybox is relatively large, I had a hat-section stiffener welded on the underside of its lid so it doesn’t flex. This custom built drybox was key to having my rig offer everything I need, it was money well spent.
Offset umbrella works well for continuous shade and for hanging a solar shower from (on trips where you are allowed to have soapy water go into the river). Tables doubles as a spine board.
No need to explain the “everything bag” in the stern, though I do sometimes use a rectangular cat boat version instead of my drybox and stern bag for trips when minimizing weight/volume is important.
One final note on frame design; if you decide to go with a single rail frame then ensure that rail is located at least 3inches outboard of the top of your tubes so that people can easily walk along the top of your tubes.
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This final photo is for tmcc, sort of showing how the SL cuts through the top of the wave and remains fairly level:
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Old 04-05-2014   #830
 
Park City, Utah
Paddling Since: 1982
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 548
Phil, Thanks for the photo of the raft in action and also your rigging set-ups. I'm jonesin' to work on a new project. We're heading for RH next week for float w/ the pups. I'll cogitate on what we might do.
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