Raft Porn Needed -Let's see them rigs!!! - Page 78 - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 03-18-2014   #771
 
Denver, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2000
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 152
Elkhaven,

Thanks for all that. I would have never guessed to add sand to the varnish. I have a buddy of mine who used crushed up walnut's to his paint, that he used for the decking on his cataraft. Works very nicely.

As for the rear brace, turning 180 degrees, I don't think that will work. I am looking at cutting a couple inches off of the rear tubes for the stern seat. I agree, it sits way farther out that it needs too. If I cut a few inches off, it will bring it into the raft better. My thought on the DRE seat, is cut a little bit off the bottom tubes, and put it under the rear seat as a casting platform (beavertail). I will probably buy a dry box, and get a flip seat, to use for the rowing area. Cooler will go up towards the front.

I just don't want to make any hasty decisions on cutting tubes yet. I don't want to pay for the blue mesh seat that goes on that captains chair from DRE, haven't heard too many good reviews on it. Plus it is kind of expensive. I can buy a swivel chair from Cabela's for $40.

I am sure after the first few trips, I will start to change everything once I get a feel for what works, and what doesn't. I am just ready to be on the water. Looks like it is going to be a great year for us. Thanks again for all the advice. I really appreciate it.

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Old 03-18-2014   #772
 
Denver, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2000
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 152
I think I might as well cut that thwart out while I am at it. It is sewed in. I don't see too many fly fishing rigs with thwarts in them. I need to get another one (thwart), and have them just both be removable when I want to fish, and put back in for whitewater runs. Slightly nervous to put a razor blade in that small space between the tube/thwart.
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Old 03-18-2014   #773
 
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Belgrade, Montana
Paddling Since: 1991
Join Date: Sep 2013
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All good ideas! You're definitely thinking outside the box, which is good IMO. Just note that if you lower the rowers position you may need to adjust the oarstand/pin height... but that should be relatively simple.

edit: I cut my thwarts out of my original Eclipse (very similar to your boat), and it wasn't too bad if I recall. That was many moons ago so it's a hazy memory but I think I just had to cut the stitching, not any PVC...good luck.

2nd edit: I know you've heard this before but for fishing being able to feather your oars is key, so down the road try to row other boats with open oarlocks and get a feel for it. Then someday think open locks. I'm not saying this for every type of rowing and not trying to get into an arguement, but for fishing it really is key to be able to slightly adjust position and use side strokes; which you simply can't do with pins...
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Old 03-18-2014   #774
 
Denver, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2000
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 152
Yeah, I would like to do that as well. But for now, I am being as cost effective as possible. I have rowed open oars before with no oar rights or anything, and it was nice. Never used P&C's before, so figured why not give it a shot. I have looked at Pro Lok's, and may wait on those for a bit. Right now, the name of the game is just get setup with crucial parts/gear, and go from there. After looking at the DRE San Juan, that is the frame I am copying, bc it seems most similar to mine right now. Definitely cutting the thwart out, and shortening the back hoop that the rear fisher sits on. The ass end is too far out there. Now, I just need to come up with a rear platform for it.
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Old 03-18-2014   #775
 
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Belgrade, Montana
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In reality a beaver board will be fine, you just need a way keep it from rocking. That might be accomplished on the cheap by simply cutting and strapping a couple of 2x4's below the last bar on your frame. Then screw the 2x' to the beaver board and use two straps around the bar and through holes cut in the floor to hold it up to the rear frame and finally another strap or two to the back D-ring to hold it up. Not pretty but would work as a test. you could then have aluminum pieces made to replace the wood if you like it, if not your out a couple bucks and move on to another plan.

I'll take a picture of my work in progress tonight. It's similar to the system described above but uses NRS tubing and fittings. I'm still waiting on a couple pieces to dial it out just how I have visioned but what I have might give you some ideas. As you said earlier there are lots of options.
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Old 03-19-2014   #776
 
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Belgrade, Montana
Paddling Since: 1991
Join Date: Sep 2013
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So attached is a picture of my project. What you see is a pair of NRS stern frame tubes rotated about 60 degrees, then clamped to two stubs. This works ok but there is still alot of AL to trip over, stub toes, etc. and I would like to set a beaver tail back there (maybe above or maybe below the aluminum, not sure yet). So a nice buzzard has agreed to make me two new AL tubes that bend up and over the transom. These will be attached to more straight bars that will run out to the stubs and I will then create a floor that fits snugly in there. The floor will then strap to the AL and will be a nice and solid place to stand when required.

I know this doesn't totally apply to your frame but maybe it will give you more ideas for how to suspend a floor solidly in your boat.

Attachment 7880
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Old 03-19-2014   #777
 
Denver, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2000
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Well, as of last night, I fooled around with the bays, and drop bag placement. I actually cut the rear thwart out(extremely nervous to have a razor blade so close). What I found out, is that the rear hoop is now stuck on one side in the speed rail, due to a set crew, that will not come out. I even used an impact driver, nothing. The best thing I have read thus far, is to heat it up with a blow torch, and maybe it will loosen up. My plan, once out, is to cut off about 3-4 inches of the hoop on both sides, so the rear seat isn't sitting so far back, and bring it inside the raft more.

Thanks for the photo. Still considering what to do with the DRE captains chair. Keep, and put new webbing on(since the mesh was shot), or turn it into a rear casting platform. Decisions, decisions.
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Old 03-19-2014   #778
 
Salt Lake City, Utah
Paddling Since: 1969
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Drill the set screw out, forget the heat. You want to be VERY CAREFUL applying heat to 6061 or 6063, unless you've done it before it is really easy to end up with a mess...
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Old 03-19-2014   #779
 
Denver, Colorado
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I guess that seems like the most obvious thing to do. I am planning on cutting a couple inches off the hoop anyway.
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Old 03-21-2014   #780
 
Park City, Utah
Paddling Since: 1982
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So, elkhaven and Cataraftgirl, What made you pick the SL instead of the ST?
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