Raft Porn Needed -Let's see them rigs!!! - Page 77 - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 03-17-2014   #761
 
elkhaven's Avatar
 
Belgrade, Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by climber-420 View Post
Still a work in progress. The weather was warm this weekend here in the Mile High City, so I got to tinkering, and cleaning things up a bit. After looking around at other rafts with fly fishing frames, I think the back portion of the frame over the stern sits awfully high. I am going thru and replacing all the old wooden platforms with new wood, and sealing everything. The raft came with a DRE aluminum flip rowers seat, but it doesn't have the legs on the back to sit on another bar. How much do those cost to have welded on? Still trying to configure bays.
I think you need to take some more pics of that rig, there is some strange shit going on... I see 4 empty T fittings scattered about the boat, my guess is they are what hold your captains chair, but at least one will need to be moved and the shorter of the rear hoops removed or the two T's on the front bar and the one on the side moved back to the back bar to carry the seat and the casting brace (shorter rear hoop) if that's where you want it. I've not seen a trailer frame quite like that before but I presume it's designed to carry a bolt on plate that you attach a seat to. It seems a bit long for the boat but more angles might shed some light on the whole set up. It looks pretty nice and I can see a lot of potential but it is a bit strange to me...

edit, or the rear feet of the flip seat just rest on the cross bar... There is another thread with this discussion from last week or so.

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Old 03-17-2014   #762
 
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C. Springs, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by climber-420 View Post
The raft came with a DRE aluminum flip rowers seat, but it doesn't have the legs on the back to sit on another bar. How much do those cost to have welded on?
If I owned DRE....I'd charge you $10. Call them up, it's there product so they are the best ones to fix it right with the right pipe. Ask about their free Friday shop deals.
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Old 03-17-2014   #763
 
Whitefish, Montana
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Rod Rack

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Originally Posted by birdman413 View Post
like your rod holder !!
I like it too. Clean, secure enough (wouldn't want to flip with them in there) and basically out of the way. I found it at an REI garage sale about 15 years ago. It's old and tired, kept together with electrician's tape but it does the job and can be moved from boat to boat with just a few snips of the zip ties!
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Old 03-17-2014   #764
 
Parker, Colorado
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Originally Posted by middletoe View Post
I like it too. Clean, secure enough (wouldn't want to flip with them in there) and basically out of the way. I found it at an REI garage sale about 15 years ago. It's old and tired, kept together with electrician's tape but it does the job and can be moved from boat to boat with just a few snips of the zip ties!
I'd be a bit afraid that a friend after a few too many Coors would step on those rods trying to exit the raft.
Hopefully he'd only step on his rod.
Prefer mine in a hard plastic tube.
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Old 03-17-2014   #765
 
Salida, Colorado
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Riverboat works makes a sweet tubular rod holder that attaches to the outside rail. Even in the unlikely event they get stepped on they probably won't get damaged.
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Old 03-17-2014   #766
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New Castle, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by climber-420 View Post
Still a work in progress. The weather was warm this weekend here in the Mile High City, so I got to tinkering, and cleaning things up a bit. After looking around at other rafts with fly fishing frames, I think the back portion of the frame over the stern sits awfully high. I am going thru and replacing all the old wooden platforms with new wood, and sealing everything. The raft came with a DRE aluminum flip rowers seat, but it doesn't have the legs on the back to sit on another bar. How much do those cost to have welded on? Still trying to configure bays.
I'm not a fisherman so I don't see the need for the "cow plow" up front.
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Old 03-17-2014   #767
 
Denver, Colorado
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So I went through and put the seats on(kinda), and tried to set it up the way it should be (I believe). Remember, I bought this from someone a few months ago, and it hasn't been on the water in 4 years. Slowly but surely replacing, and getting things to make it better than it was.
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Old 03-17-2014   #768
 
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Bozeman, Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by climber-420 View Post
So I went through and put the seats on(kinda), and tried to set it up the way it should be (I believe). Remember, I bought this from someone a few months ago, and it hasn't been on the water in 4 years. Slowly but surely replacing, and getting things to make it better than it was.
now that is starting to look like something. I would hang plywood floors in at least the front and rear bays. Otherwise standing to cast is difficult (I am assuming that is a bucket boat). You might also want to rig up an anchor as well. You can do so with pulleys bought cheap at a hardware store. I have a friend that uses a 30 lb dumbbell. Good job. You are getting pretty close to tight lines and good times.
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Old 03-17-2014   #769
 
Denver, Colorado
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I got kicked off. Lol. Taking too long to revise the post above. The pictures seen here, are the day I bought the raft. It hadn't been on the water in 4 years. I have so far taken the platform off the front (you can see it is tied up with red webbing on the front lean bar), cut out a new one and spar/urethaned it. Couple more coats and it will be good to go. The back, I haven't figured out anything yet for it, b/c there isn't/wasn't any tubing there. I was thinking of using the DRE seat, as a smaller platform for the back, and just cut the legs shorter, and get some fitting to hold it on there. May work? I have also ordered some stirrups for the pins & clips from tuffriverstuff.com. They look bomber. Any and all words of advice and criticism are welcomed. I also have a drop bag that came with the boat, which is under the bigger wooden platform with the swivel seat on top in the front of the boat. Thinking of ditching the bigger platform, for a home made table of sorts, and just attach the seat to a hoop on the front. So many possibilities, they are almost, dare I say, endless.
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Old 03-18-2014   #770
 
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Belgrade, Montana
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They are endless! I have a new boat that's been in the water 2 times and I've rerigged it 4 times... It's both the beauty and problem with erector set frames!

Here's my thinking, The seat was probably designed by the PO to rest on a cooler, drybox or some other hard object, hence the missing legs. You could always have DRE add legs (unfortunately will cost more than $10, but shouldn't be too bad) or you could try and rig a box of sorts in that space, but that won't be easy with the thwart there. One possible third option would be to add a cross bar behind the rowers seat to more adequately support a cooler or box and rest the seat on that, you could then put a small deck behind that cooler for a place for the rear fisherman to set his gear bag, etc. just more ideas. For testing you could put a plywood deck on the back and make a 2x4 frame that supports the rowers seat. If you like it then go the DRE route or look at coolers, boxes or figure out a more functional support.

Edit: on your last coat of varnish, add sand for traction. I use a roller, roll a heavy coat of varnish then sprinkle sand then reroll, makes a nice, durable non skid surface. they sell clean sand at the paint store and if you go this route think about taping off the edges before you roll so you don't create sandpaper on the edges to rub holes in the tubes.

Rear floor: You could rotate the rear casting brace 180 (so it is below the tube, if it's not too long) then make a ply wood beavertail like you've rebuilt up front for the rear. It could strapped to the front side and be suspended by straps on the rear. Just use long straps that go all the way from the rear D-ring to the upside down casing brace (thus supporting the floor underneath, I've found this to be more stable and last longer). Simply suspending a floor from straps is difficult to keep them stable. If you step on a side they flip up, they usually rock back and forth with boat motion (unless you get a very tight fit to the tubes). So attaching them on one end to something solid is key. This of course would leave you without a casting brace, but they're not imperitve to fishing out of a raft. Fishing from the seat is way better IMHO. I'd use the same style front seat, again fishing out of a seat is way better than standing... The drop decks (beavertail) are just to move around on with out standing in the water that will invariably be in the bottom. In time you may even want to ditch the front casting brace (as you and your buddies get used to fishing from the seat). It is way easier to get in and out of the boat quickly while not dodging excess aluminum and way easier on knees and shins.

Also play around with sliding the whole frame forward, I like my rear seat inside of center on the E-piece, people seem more comfortable sitting over rubber than over water and it will help help keep you from riding ass heavy. Which will also make it easier to row. Always try to keep the boat balanced front heavy (not always possible but try), especially for fishing it will be way easier to track and backrow.

Edit: For your last coat of varnish for your floors add sand! Frist, tape of the edges (3/4" masking tape) so you don't create sand paper to rub holes in the tubes. Then I use disposable roller and roll a heavy coat of varnish, sprinkle sand on the wet varnish and reroll, it will spread out the sand and cover it in varnish. Lastly remove tape before the varnish dries. This will give a very nice non skid. They sell clean silica sand at paint stores.
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