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Old 06-13-2013   #21
 
spider's Avatar
 
Livingston, Montana
Paddling Since: 09
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 725
I took a sanding wheel to the sharp edges and have my rubber stopper right next to the collar as a buffer. But if you could get a larger collar then you could use a regular oar sleeve, problem solved.
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18' Maravia, 11' cataract oars, pro-loks.
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Old 06-13-2013   #22
 
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Livingston, Montana
Paddling Since: 09
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 725
Or This Plastic oar stopper Plastic Oar Stoppers at NRSweb.com you could order them w/out his oar stopper I'm sure. If you want the oar rite dealie just screw one in.
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18' Maravia, 11' cataract oars, pro-loks.
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Old 06-13-2013   #23
 
slamkal's Avatar
 
vancouver, Washington
Paddling Since: 1996
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,075
Quote:
Originally Posted by spider View Post
Or This Plastic oar stopper Plastic Oar Stoppers at NRSweb.com you could order them w/out his oar stopper I'm sure. If you want the oar rite dealie just screw one in.
Hmm. I bought something similar (a grants). Even filled half of it with jb weld so I could machine the screw into it for the right. Then i realized the grants one has a diameter large enough to fit over a rope wrap, won't clamp down like the Nrs one.

Fortunately I have a cracked oar sleeve I can make a spacer

The other thing I thought is couldn't he just make a friction fit collar and add a couple of nylon set screws radially in the shaft? I don't think nylon would garf the shafts, and two screws would lock it in place
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Old 06-13-2013   #24
 
spider's Avatar
 
Livingston, Montana
Paddling Since: 09
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 725
Steelheaddan is his mb handle but he got poped for being a buisiness when he tried to talk about his product in a round about way. I'll email him and maybe he can answer some questions here on the buzz.
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Old 06-14-2013   #25
 
klickitat, Washington
Paddling Since: 1982
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 6
Hello to the Buzz,

I'm the owner and designer of the PRO-LOKS Rowing System, a.k.a Steelhead Dan. As with most new designs there are questions that follow. Hoping it is acceptable that I might clear the air and answer some. If you have any questions or concerns, lets talk. What's on your mind?
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Old 06-14-2013   #26
 
klickitat, Washington
Paddling Since: 1982
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by restrac2000 View Post
They look pretty sweet and I had never heard of them until now.

Question, are they useable with rope wrapped oars? I know you mentioned you don't need them but I just purchased a set of Cataracts w/ wrap. Looking at replacing two of my oar locks that have been warped over 5 years of use but can't justify buying new oars considering they are only a couple months old.

Phillip
First I'd like to start by saying, that leaving the rope on your oars defeats the purpose of the PRO-LOKS unique design. By removing the rope the oar now rides on a bearing surface. As where rope, the more pressure, the more friction. All composite oars will benefit with the PRO-LOKS system by removing the rope. For instance, cataracts require very little preparation. Where some of the Sawyer oars require a little sanding in the usage area. After removing your rope from your cataract oars, wipe shaft with charcoal fluid or paint thinner with a rag. Your Ready!
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Old 06-14-2013   #27
 
klickitat, Washington
Paddling Since: 1982
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by Avatard View Post
I gotta get in touch with him. I see no reason he can't make his stops with a bolt in them like the grants sleeves. I think 5/16 Allen with a 1/2 nut, countersink the heads so there is no exposed sharp pieces. I think that clamp is scaring away buzzards

I understand there are some concerns with the "stopper". Once the stopper is clamped on the oar, use a hack saw and cut the exposed bold off. Flush with the nyloc, then file any of the remaining edges smooth. I usually send a wing nut and a nyloc with each set. The nyloc is to be used in the whitewater industry. If I missed this and you need nylocs, let me know. During R&D, I used a clamping system similar to the Grants, and found that no matter how tight you clamp it down, the stopper still moved, annoying. By using a full circumference stainless T-bolt clamp, this issue was eliminated.
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Old 06-14-2013   #28
 
Tacoma,Wa, Idaho
Paddling Since: 1994
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 154
I don't know guys, that whole contraption smells like death trap to me for whitewater use. This will be interesting

I can see a driftboater using that stuff, too much mechanism to go haywire when it gets bent or sheared off to replace on the river. I assume if you flip and get recirculated the oars fly around and beat the hell out of you and your boat and bend stuff, or would they break free?

They look like they would come in handy for snaring beaver!
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Old 06-14-2013   #29
 
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vancouver, Washington
Paddling Since: 1996
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,075
Quote:
Originally Posted by orto11 View Post
I don't know guys, that whole contraption smells like death trap to me for whitewater use. This will be interesting

I can see a driftboater using that stuff, too much mechanism to go haywire when it gets bent or sheared off to replace on the river. I assume if you flip and get recirculated the oars fly around and beat the hell out of you and your boat and bend stuff, or would they break free?

They look like they would come in handy for snaring beaver!
First of all, remove the metal cable (aka: rabbit snare). It's a drift boat thing and you could lose a digit in a whitewater flip

It's not a lot of mechanism. There is a collar (that feels greasy to the touch) that glides down your oar shaft. Not much to fail there

The second thing is the pivots, which apply slight force on the collar but under extreme force (like smacking something that's gonna smash your oar), the rounded screw head will pop out of the countersunk dimple and your oar will release. I'm no ME (but I am an EE) so I understand basically the mechanics although I don't actually know the limits.

I'm pretty sure the collar will release before the screw bends. Maybe Dan has documented video of the results of this test. I'dexpect he has popped at least 100 oars (or shaft like objects) and documented any deformation in the screws.

I'm sure if its an issue he will certainly know from spider and I complaining on the buzz. I'm pretty sure from watching posted spider video that spider wears a helmet on land

As far as the welding quality and the strength of materials, I would think that a Nrs or sawyer oar lock would shear off before the pro-lok would get damaged

Dan do you have a loaner program or a 30 day trial satisfaction guarantee you can offer?

My only concern, as a ww boater is in the sharpness of the clamp used in the stop collar. I think if the plastic on the collar was made a bit bigger and the clamp smaller and RECESSED that you would alleviate a lot of the concerns of the ww boater. You can't have sharp objects anywhere on your boat that can cause harm or damage when you get thrashed. Watch the maytag video on the recent threads you will see what you are up against

Then when you design a "ww specific" collar, get in touch with the likes of lhowemt and see if she would demo one if you sent it to her. She is a big proponent on the payette posilockers, which will NOT release under any condition until either something shears or you physically lift the boat off the obstruction

As far as field servicing, Dan you need to offer a ww repair kit or option to purchase three.

Btw the screw clamp design will ABSOLUTELY NOT work for the spare oar. Nobody will allow their boat to be gouged by that mechanism

Btw I have a selway trip coming up which will be my first test of the pro-loks in a situation where I can't just pack out and hitchhike if they fail. I'll be contacting you to purchase a third lock and collars for my spares. Please work on that new WW ready collar for my spares!!!!
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Old 06-15-2013   #30
 
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Livingston, Montana
Paddling Since: 09
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 725
I'm glad to know my oars will be staying in place. Seems like poped oars are one of my problems. I am taking a set of old fashion oarlocks and sleeves on my lower salmon trip coming up but I doubt I'll ever be using them again. I'm going to do my best not to flip my fully loaded 18' boat with 4 up. It sure would give them the test though. I'll try to flip that boat on a shorter trip with less gear and more paco pads straped around. The only real issue is not being able to just swap in your spare oar but it can be done. They are so smooth you will want to row upstream in the wind.

Thanks for chipping in Dan. I'm going to do some more testing tomorrow, as an iron worker I'm never easy on equipment. I'll keep yall posted.
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