Preventing Al transfer (drybox, frame, etc) - Page 2 - Mountain Buzz
 



Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 07-08-2016   #11
 
readNrun's Avatar
 
Niwot, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2005
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 775
ob1coby - your PM box full. open up one more message and I'll provide email off-buzz for you to reply to me.

__________________
"It's supposed to be hard. If it wasn't hard, everyone would do it. The hard... is what makes it great."
readNrun is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 07-08-2016   #12
 
readNrun's Avatar
 
Niwot, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2005
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 775
As requested by ob1coby - I'm moving this discussion back to the board
----
my question:

Your solution made me think about maybe using 3m clear bra material like they use on cars. Maybe not for the frame but it would seem it would work great for the dryboxes. I'm sure there is a significant cost difference between a roll of tape and the 3m material but I wonder if it holds up better.

So each year (at the end) you peel the tape off and clean it with goof off? I assume you don't apply the new tape until the beginning of next season?

ob1coby's reply:

Thats funny, I used strips of 3M clear bra on first frame 3 years ago. It still only lasted one season and was MUCH more expensive. It is tuff stuff but it's not designed for constant contact and abrasion. So.. if it is only going to last one season I'll save some moeny.

The last two years I removed the old, and applied the new in the spring before my first trip of the season. I took a good day.

my reply:

This is great info!

You said it took a good day...for just the frame or for everything? And I assume you cleaned everything off - that was probably the lions share of the time?

A few more questions:

  • Single layer non-overlapping of tape?
  • Did you tape the entire bottom of the frame or just the places (fittings) that typically really rub against the rubber?
  • Did you find that the frame tape wore more than that on the drybox?
__________________
"It's supposed to be hard. If it wasn't hard, everyone would do it. The hard... is what makes it great."
readNrun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016   #13
aka The Curmudgeon
 
captishmael's Avatar
 
Hopelessly Stuck in Yesterday, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1994
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 322
Aluminum oxidation is like a battle scar- be proud of it!

A lot of the solutions above make me think of those clear plastic slipcovers for living room furniture, they had their heyday in the 50s and 60s . Oh the stupid things we used to do!
__________________
Don't Wanna Die Askin' for Another Chance
captishmael is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016   #14
 
readNrun's Avatar
 
Niwot, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2005
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 775
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawkandawe View Post
Surprised you lamo's those aren't putting maxi pads under the frame
Only once a month.
__________________
"It's supposed to be hard. If it wasn't hard, everyone would do it. The hard... is what makes it great."
readNrun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016   #15
 
Great Falls, Montana
Paddling Since: .3
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 996
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawkandawe View Post
Buy a real frame with a real powdercoating job not the shit show garage sale of parts you put together and it would last you. Stop trying to inbreed peoples boats up with your kentucky duct tape fix. Read n run is a decent dude why F- up his skiff
Thanks James. Been wondering when you would come back. I've got an intersting story but for now I'm going to go back to ignoring you and ACTUALLY trying to help others. I would recommend the same to everyone. Just ignore him.
ob1coby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016   #16
 
Great Falls, Montana
Paddling Since: .3
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 996
Quote:
Originally Posted by Read_N_Run View Post
As requested by ob1coby - I'm moving this discussion back to the board
----
my question:

Your solution made me think about maybe using 3m clear bra material like they use on cars. Maybe not for the frame but it would seem it would work great for the dryboxes. I'm sure there is a significant cost difference between a roll of tape and the 3m material but I wonder if it holds up better.

So each year (at the end) you peel the tape off and clean it with goof off? I assume you don't apply the new tape until the beginning of next season?

ob1coby's reply:

Thats funny, I used strips of 3M clear bra on first frame 3 years ago. It still only lasted one season and was MUCH more expensive. It is tuff stuff but it's not designed for constant contact and abrasion. So.. if it is only going to last one season I'll save some moeny.

The last two years I removed the old, and applied the new in the spring before my first trip of the season. I took a good day.

my reply:

This is great info!

You said it took a good day...for just the frame or for everything? And I assume you cleaned everything off - that was probably the lions share of the time?

A few more questions:

  • Single layer non-overlapping of tape?
  • Did you tape the entire bottom of the frame or just the places (fittings) that typically really rub against the rubber?
  • Did you find that the frame tape wore more than that on the drybox?
Yea the majority of the work was to get the old adhesive off. I did all of this each spring before my first trip. Maybe if I pulled the old tape off in the fall.. it would be easier to remove the adhesive in the spring. If you try it let us know.

1 I've only used the single layer that anyone can get from ACE or HD.
2 So far I have run one continuous strip from one end of the side rail to the other while taking time to smooth it out (no wrinkles to collect debris) and aroud Ubolts.Also about six inches of each end of the cross/seat/foot bars where they contact the tubes.
3 The majority of the wear was on the bottom of the Ubolts. The drybox had about the same as everything else, but I monitored all of thape regularly to make sure it wasn't shredding or peeling. If it does it will collect debris.
ob1coby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016   #17
 
Great Falls, Montana
Paddling Since: .3
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 996
PLEASE keep in mind folks that you may use your boat more than I do so if you try this method please inspect it regularly and let us all know what your results were
ob1coby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016   #18
 
Denver, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2011
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 114
I can't believe anyone cares that much about marks on a boat. Do you guys raft in Utah? Do you freak out everytime your boat gets covered in mud? Do you shower daily on raft trips too?
Treswright3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016   #19
 
readNrun's Avatar
 
Niwot, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2005
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 775
Quote:
Originally Posted by Treswright3 View Post
I can't believe anyone cares that much about marks on a boat. Do you guys raft in Utah? Do you freak out everytime your boat gets covered in mud? Do you shower daily on raft trips too?
Do you guys raft in Utah -> Yes, a lot
Do you guys freak out everything time your boat gets covered in mud -> not at all.
Do you guys shower daily on raft trips too? -> nope - not even from Lees to Pearce. Though I have been known to brush my teeth once or twice.
__________________
"It's supposed to be hard. If it wasn't hard, everyone would do it. The hard... is what makes it great."
readNrun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2016   #20
 
readNrun's Avatar
 
Niwot, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2005
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 775
I just wanted to follow up to this thread and say that I used gorilla tape on my dry box and captains box and it worked like a charm. Wore through a couple of places ever so slightly - but that was after 7 days on the river and 1500 miles driving it on a trailer.

I'll have to tape over a few spots and will still have to see how it all comes off at the end of the season. Getting it off seems pretty straight forward on a drybox - I think it could be much more of a pain on the frame. I just may throw some foam under my frame ends - mainly because my frame slightly extends past my chafe strips.
__________________
"It's supposed to be hard. If it wasn't hard, everyone would do it. The hard... is what makes it great."
readNrun is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Topic Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Boat Transfer From Missoula to Boulder plewis05 Boaters Forum | General Boating Topics 0 05-27-2014 10:11 AM
Need help - transfer boat from Durango to Carbondale watermonkey Boaters Forum | General Boating Topics 0 07-18-2013 06:45 PM
Boat Transfer from Durango To Boise? Aroberts Whitewater Kayaking 0 06-12-2013 09:03 AM
My 38" new drybox for your 48" drybox? walkabout Kayaking | Gear Talk 0 04-05-2010 09:58 PM
preventing oil canning borkin17 Whitewater Kayaking 7 10-04-2008 07:52 PM

» Classified Ads
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:19 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.