Powder coating guidance - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 09-20-2016   #1
 
readNrun's Avatar
 
Niwot, Colorado
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Powder coating guidance

Looking to glean some guidance from those that have powder coated a bunch of the Al on their boat. I have my drybox, capn box and cooler hanger brackets queued up for coating but considering doing the frame as well. I understand that it will pretty much eliminate it's ability to be broken down but if I did the frame, I would make it so my oar towers are still removable and my kick bar could be rotated.

Anybody out there that went through this process - or even thought about it, I would welcome input.

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Old 09-20-2016   #2
 
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Lakewood, Colorado
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If you break the frame down and tell them you don't want certain surfaces to be powder coated most reputable shops should be able to do that. They have a tape that can take the heat that protects the areas you don't want powder coat on. They also have silicon plugs to plug up the through holes on stuff like the NRS Lo Pro frame fittings or you can just put a drill through them to clean the powder coat out of the holes.

Depending on the design of the frame, that sounds like a a pretty reasonable way to go.
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Old 09-20-2016   #3
 
Great Falls, Montana
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I went through this last year. I completely dismantled the frame and had it all powder coated except my lopros because I think it looks more professional that way, plus the new lowpros look cool. The frame is still full break-downable. I didn't do any masking because I didn't need to but the powder coater told me he could have.

Keep in mind for all of you Powder coated frame owners. powdercoating may be the most durable paint but it still wears off and leaves exposed aluminum to stain your tubes. Even if you have a frame that is built buy the most super duper, advanced, double secret frame builder in the universe. (That will be another story for later) but the point is that I still protect the bottom of my frame with gorilla tape. see this thread. Preventing Al transfer (drybox, frame, etc)
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Old 09-20-2016   #4
 
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Niwot, Colorado
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ob1coby - yep - this all stems from running the gorilla tape for a season and my decision to definitively powder coat the non-frame Al throughout my boat.

I'm leaning toward doing something similar to Paul7 with a strip of foam under the frame on the two main tubes. I tried this out with a smaller piece of foam on the corners for the last trip and it worked great. I did find that I'll need to use a much denser foam if I want it to last because the normal closed cell blue backpacker pad foam looked like it would last maybe two trips including travel.

So - bottom line - I'm powder coating the boxes and will pick up some cheap strips of foam for under my frame where it hits my tubes.
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Old 09-20-2016   #5
 
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I can't wait to hear about that frame builder!
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Old 09-20-2016   #6
 
Portland, Oregon
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Have done a couple in RS frames now to is you can do it powder coat the pipe and the low pros separately or product with the pipe with the low pros on it but you do need to take off the locking nuts and put a stainless steel not on otherwise the robber or whatever material makes not locking nut will melt and be essentially useless

Haven't had any issue with the frame it's been several years I did a hammer coat so even if that nicked up it's still look brand-new happy with it

As for masking they do have tape I don't see any reason to plug holes you can just drill or screen right through them


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Old 09-20-2016   #7
 
Portland, Oregon
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Apologies guys --- did voice to text and in process of proofreading actually sent.

Long story short, I vote for powdercoat. Makes any frame look 1,000x better and no al marks. I have had mine for 6 years and no issue yet. Have done it a few ways --- if interested let me know.


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Old 09-20-2016   #8
 
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Nampa, Idaho
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How much is it to powder coat a dry box or a frame?
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Old 09-21-2016   #9
 
Portland, Oregon
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Trick question Dr. A :)

Well not really....

Powder Coating Variables:

1) Set-up

Each job costs money to set up. I had a three bay frame done for about $275 --- two side rails @ ~ 75", 5 crossbars @ 64" (with lopro's attached) and 2 8" oar towers. I got a football from DRL and when that was priced out it was done they wanted to charge me $150. I was like WTF. Reasoning --- the time to set up the oven and process for my specific color. They ultimately reduced it to $75 because they were good people. Morale of story doing everything at once (by color) and be sure to ask set up charge for each batch.

Additionally, ask them if they are running a certain color and when. If you wait / aren't picky, can you potentially get in with that batch for a discount.

2) Color Availability

Smaller shops may not have specific color and may need to special order the it. Odds are you will pay more for that paint / job.

3) Condition of Metal

They may have to sandblast the metal before treating it. Additionally, a drybox will need to be disassembled and then put back together if you already own it. That is going to cost money. The seal and foam on top may cost a lot of money to clean. Best if you do that yourself (maybe not the disassembly but the cleanup).


4) Coats


You may elect to do a 2nd coat or get a clear coat. Some colors, especially those with fluorescents (hot pink), will fade over time and with sun exposure. A top coat is needed for longevity. This will of course add cost but shouldn't be substantially more as you should not incur new setup charges.

What I was recently quoted:

- 12ft Cat Frame: $300
- Drybox (all in for disassembly and assembly and powder coat assuming I clean up the goo before I bring to them): $200
- Rocket Box: I believe I had them done last summer for about $40 a pop but I did wait for their color runs so took a while and they do have to be sandblasted
- Raft Frame: As mentioned about $275 but this was like 6 years ago

Hope this helps...
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Old 09-21-2016   #10
 
Great Falls, Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GC Guide View Post
I can't wait to hear about that frame builder!
You've heard about him. We've all heard about him.
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