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Old 05-12-2015   #11
thinksnow's Avatar
Salida, 81201
Paddling Since: 1995
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 143
Try leveling your oar locks to your seat height.

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Old 05-12-2015   #12
elkhaven's Avatar
Belgrade, Montana
Paddling Since: 1991
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,660
I have a 72" frame, 10' oars (not exactly sure how high my seat is but 4-5" should be close) and I made oar towers that I could change the height by replacing a piece of tubing. I started with 11" above the tube and have gone down in several increments to 9" which is where I'm currently at. 8" or 10" would work, 9" just seems to be a little better. Except when standing, then I wish I had 10 or even 11 and I really like to stand and row. Moral: I would error on the long side.

Yesterday's gone on down the river and you can't get it back. - Agustus McCrae
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Old 05-12-2015   #13
cedar city, Utah
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,929
I rowed a 72" cat frame w/ 10' oars and used the 8 inch towers. They also seem to work on my 66" frame just fine.

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Old 05-12-2015   #14
East of the Pine beatle, Colorado
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,363
Order both- send back the ones that don't work. That's what I did. Fwiw- the 10" NRS are tough to get tight enough. They tend to spin. (Leverage?). I keep an extra one of the ubolts on board with a wrench. Was wondering if there is something I could put under there to prevent the spinning issue?

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Old 05-12-2015   #15
jakebrown98's Avatar
Portland, Oregon
Paddling Since: 2001
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 165
Go with 8 foot oars, Psyko. 8.5s will be to long. I have a 48" NRS and I think 8s are great as do most but some think 7.5s are more appropriate.
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Old 05-20-2015   #16
Calgary, Alberta
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 361
Originally Posted by jakebrown98 View Post
You can spend hours thinking about this easily. Some folks on here have spent days. What is your time worth? Nothing will even come close to the experience of trying them on the water.

I have 6" towers and went pins and clips since I didn't know what height I would end up at, and with this setup I can put a spacer on the pin to raise the oar up in varying amounts. I think I currently have a 1" spacer/riser but don't sit on a dry box... probably only 2-3" above the toprail height on my frame.
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Old 05-20-2015   #17
East MT, WestMT, Both sides of the Yellowstone
Paddling Since: 09
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,112
8" towers and add a 1" spacer on your oar lock for more height if you want it. Psyko, the rule of thumb is 1/3 in 2/3 out on oar length. Assuming you are also using NRS towers you can pivot them in or out to dial that formula in.
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Old 05-20-2015   #18
slamkal's Avatar
vancouver, Washington
Paddling Since: 1996
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,146
Really like the forged nrs towers because of the bushings. Duh nrs. I have pro loks those are nice too because the shafts are long and stainless and you can get an inch or two more height out of them than a cobra
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Old 05-20-2015   #19
East MT, WestMT, Both sides of the Yellowstone
Paddling Since: 09
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,112
You can tie the new towers off to your boat also, in the case where a u bolt snaps you will keep your tower. Pro loks are awesome.
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Old 05-21-2015   #20
Canmore, People's Republic of Alberta
Paddling Since: 1982
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 22
Same raft/frame size as you. I bumped up from the NRS 8" to 10" towers. Better clearance for my knees when sitting on the cooler.

11" oars feel a touch long so I've got to tinker with those, but I like the 10" towers.

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