Originally Posted by oarboatman
I'd love to be helpful but I'm sure green wall will have the definitive answer soon.
Someone call for Greenwall?
You know it ,thats what we do.
I prefer not to have my oar locks jumping and bouncing and rattling.Aside from loosing lots of power it's highly annoying to listen to janky frames rowing down around the next corner in the canyon.
So your best bet will be springs depending on what tower you use. Sometimes on brands of frames other than ours that people bring in to be fixed we have to cut those springs to get the proper fit. There is a correct way to do it or the spring will unwind off the key ring and fall in the water. Also there is a correct combo to put all the goodies on and the NRS kit is short a few pieces. We just order all our own hardware and put the kits together.
On all our in house Handcrafted Frames we machine all our own bushings ,pieces ,etc. So we have a no wear no lube required system called, ZT Bushing system. Which basically translates to adjustabilty equaling no slop and friction free down to a zero tolerance level.
If you show a picture of your towers I probably have something around here if you can't get it rectified.
I seem to recall whitewater machine works had a cool spacer he made for Atomic oar locks if you use those, it was a product that was definitely needed, I don't use atomics the range of motion sucks and the horn pinch points damage oars but some cat boaters like them because they are light. I put Sawyer threaded Cobras on every boat out the door pretty much.