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Oar length RMR 13 footer?

9K views 18 replies 14 participants last post by  wookie 
#1 ·
I'm putting together my RMR 13 foot rig. I have a DRE frame on order. Someone gave me a set of 9 foot Carlisle oars.

Are these too long, or will they work to get started?

I live in the southeastern U.S., so things can be a bit shallow. I'm thinking of using these for my beater oars and spares until I decide what to upgrade to for western trips.

Thoughts?

Steve


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#3 ·
I'm thinking I want a boat about that size too. I don't mean to hyjack, but would I be crazy to use my 11 footers that I already have from my 16' raft setup? I'm thinking yes, but it sure would be nice to be able to use them on another raft setup instead of spending $3-700 on another set of oars.

I've read people using anything from 7 foot all the way to 10 foot pretty happily, so it sounds like its personal preference and a fairly wide range would work.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the info. No worries on hijacking the thread.

They are 9', I measured them. My only experience rowing is a 15.5' SOTAR rig on the Rogue this summer, no idea of oar length. My Carlise oars will make good learning and spare oars as I get more proficient.

Thanks again for the feedback.


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#6 ·
Ya those 9' oars should be good for your 13' raft spack171.
Electric mayhem, those 11' oars would be to long on a 13' raft, for me even 10' would be longer then I would want, and I even tend to run longer oars.
 
#8 ·
I've rowed my rig a few times with the 9' oars and they work well.

However, I wonder if 8.5 foot oars might be better for some of the tighter more technical run in the southern US without losing leverage for bigger water.

Thoughts? Perhaps I'm splitting hairs.


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#9 ·
Yes 8.5 or 8 would suit you better back east. I have rowed a few tight rivers, cheoah, upper yough, rivers of this type. You can cut those oars down pretty easy. Most carlilse can have 6 inches cut off the blade end without running into the double tube. Then you can cut the handle end as well.
 
#11 ·
Steve as you can see there are varied opinions on oar length. Best thing you can do is start with what you have and then see for your self. I have a 50" frame on one boat, 8 foot oars. I have a sixty inch frame on another boat, 9 foot oars. Have a 72" frame, 10 foot oars. Have a 66" frame, i run 10 or 9. Probably 9'6" oars would be the best for it.
 
#12 ·
All depends on size of boat. height of rower and if/what you are sitting on. Are you sitting on a board on the frame, a cooler or drybox or a flip seat. Set up your rig with the frame and your seat on the ground. Take blades off oars. Test for geometric positioning. 1/3 oar in from lock / 2/3 out from lock. Are you rowing into your knees? Can you put your thumbs on the end of the handles and not bash thumbs as you "row"? Remember, you can always cut down oars, but can not add length. (Carlisle does have 1ft extenders, but I dislike them). Depending on seat height (cooler / drybox / flipseat) you can always go with higher oar towers.

Long story short. I wanted to sit on my cooler in my Super Puma. Got cooler. Bought tractor seat and flip bracket. With 6in towers, I was rowing into my knees. Had NRS bend me some rainbows to mount on frame and 6in towers went on top of rainbows. Was rowing with hand over my head to get blades in water. Purchased 9ft oars. All was good. So my $75 cooler cost me $900 to sit on. And now I want a new cooler > $$$.
 
#13 ·
Brendo summed it up well, it really starts with seat height. Stick with the 1/3 in 2/3rds out and you will be pretty close. With a seat height at frame level I would be surprised to find you would be comfortable with anything longer than 9.5 foot length. Consider also the full wingspread in tight confines of small rivers. 11 foot oars are going to give you no less than 22-1/2 foot of width, 8-1/2' oars will reduce that width by 5'. I always ran long oars, but they will take a toll on your shoulders over time. Just try to keep your hands below your shoulders when doing the work.
 
#14 ·
"Long story short. I wanted to sit on my cooler in my Super Puma. Got cooler. Bought tractor seat and flip bracket. With 6in towers, I was rowing into my knees. Had NRS bend me some rainbows to mount on frame and 6in towers went on top of rainbows. Was rowing with hand over my head to get blades in water. Purchased 9ft oars. All was good. So my $75 cooler cost me $900 to sit on. And now I want a new cooler > $$$."


Classic!!!😂😂😂


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#18 ·
Poor Design is a Marketing Schema for Many Firms

"Long story short. I wanted to sit on my cooler in my Super Puma. Got cooler. Bought tractor seat and flip bracket. With 6in towers, I was rowing into my knees. Had NRS bend me some rainbows to mount on frame and 6in towers went on top of rainbows. Was rowing with hand over my head to get blades in water. Purchased 9ft oars. All was good. So my $75 cooler cost me $900 to sit on. And now I want a new cooler > $$$."
Classic!!!������
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You fell into the classic money trap. An elevated oar tower was the solution. However, you could have gotten out for $75. You could of also cut and welded the bottom of the drybox n inches for the same price...or less. It's the efforts of folks like you that keep many in the industry....
 
#17 ·
Boat length versus Oar length is a disconnect.
The distance between the oarlocks is the variable of concern. To utilize 9 ft oars, this distance must be in the neighborhood of 75 inches allowing for 3 inches of thumb clearance. The fulcrum of a traditionally weighted oar is 36". Position the tower in front of the rower such that the oar can cross-swing by the rowers waste in time of need.
 
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