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Old 04-29-2014   #21
Orem, Utah
Paddling Since: 2014
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 55
Seems like that law would prohibit a lot of rafts! But good to know!!! Staying with in your limits til you have experience and a better raft is a must. I would say just don't push it!!!?

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Old 04-30-2014   #22
2kanzam's Avatar
Charleston, West Virginny
Paddling Since: 1996
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 461
Originally Posted by cupido76 View Post
I definitely bounced off and scraped over a few things in my boat and I never patched anything on it.

Huh, I have about 20 "patches" (ok, tear aid) on mine and typically a new issue arises every other trip.

A baffle blew the first time I blew it up.

Once I took it out of a LAKE and it looked like I had taken anti aircraft fire from below and yet I had no recollection of hitting anything at all.

One weld (manufacture defect) in the bow now leaks and it is in such a weird spot I cannot stop it completely, just slow it.

The floor gets micro pinholes where it is sewn to the tubes and stretched out by the slat floor. I try to keep up with sealing them but they keep day I feel the whole floor is just gonna tear away. It may be from stress from a few rocks I've bumped on the rare occaision I take it on moving water.

Because of all these issues I too bring a kayak bilge pump on with me, for when (not IF) it starts to take on water.

The boat is fun and all, just don't put abuncha money into it.

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Old 04-30-2014   #23
Washington, Washington, D.C.
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 6
MOJO - that looks like a nice build, and smart to make the frame the same size as will fit your upgraded boat when you get it. In the mean time, have you taken the Mariner 4 out yet? Are you going to run the hard floor? Going to add any frame wear guards as Cupido recommends?

FrankC - care to elaborate on why the Mariner 3 isn't suitable for class ii?

Although folks are calling this a pool toy, no one has addressed the fact that the tubes are a 3-layer laminated material, with 0.75 mm pvc on both sides of a polyester mesh core fabric. The RD365 and RD290 boats by Saturn use 0.9mm pvc with similar construction. I'm guessing those are not top of the line boats, but will you admit they can handle class ii?

If so, is that 0.15 mm THAT big of a difference? Is there some other specific weakness/criticism with the mariner construction that you are concerned about? Or is it just the fact that the boat is not made by a well known commercial raft company.

Frank C - I appreciate the heads up on certain regs for certain rivers, and the last thing I intend to do is ruin someone else's day on the river.
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Old 04-30-2014   #24
Washington, Washington, D.C.
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 6
Ha, I see Kanzam's post addresses my question--seems like seams/build quality may be an issue. I will take the mariner out on calm rivers that have parallel roads for the first few outings. I also picked up tear aid and duct tape.
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Old 04-30-2014   #25
Orem, Utah
Paddling Since: 2014
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 55
I haven't taken it out yet river flows around here are still down unless you drive a few hours. I'm going to run the floor and cut a hole for the bilge pump. Far as wear pads thinking of getting roll cage padding. Run it tell it goes pop!!!! Seems like some people enjoy theirs and other have had problems. Look at manmakesfire forum he uses his for fishing the salmon.
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Old 04-30-2014   #26
FrankC's Avatar
Golden, CO
Paddling Since: 1856
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 339
I think you are under estimating what Class II is. Typical Class II whitewater sections would still have plenty of rocks to pop your raft. If you are talking about a tubing/canoeing section of the Potomac or Shenendaoh with a few small drops - that would be Class I in my opinion. This raft would be perfectly suitable for that.

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