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Old 05-04-2010   #1
Albuquerque, New Mexico
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 24
Hyside raft repair questions

So I just picked up a 13' Hyside self-bailer with a lace in floor and it needs a little TLC. The floor has a leafield A6 PRV installed into a 8" donut patch. I'm assuming that the donut patch/valve is an aftermarket addition because the boat has military valves everywhere else.

Anyway, the donut patch is leaking in about 4 spots, where the patch passes over the I-beams. I had originally planned on replacing the donut but I don't want to compromise the I-beams underneath it when removing the old patch by yanking/heating the area. The patch itself is in pretty good shape, and not peeling off, I just think it has a little separation beneath each I-beam.

What are my options besides redoing the donut? I was thinking about removing the prv and applying some aquaseal around the inside of the patch where it meets the floor.

If I do end up redoing the donut, there are some wear spots right at the edge of the existing donut, and I'm worried I'll have nothing to glue to. Is there some sort of filler I could use on the threadbare spots that I can then glue a patch onto?

finally, I have found two pinhole leaks on the tubes, should I aquaseal or patch these? I'd hate to put a 3" patch on the boat for a little pinprick hole, unless that's what's called for.

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Old 05-04-2010   #2
slavetotheflyrod's Avatar
Littleton, Colorado
Paddling Since: 98
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 387
If you can, you might think about going over the donut with a larger donut - if there's room.

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Old 05-04-2010   #3
Canon City, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2000
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 426
I'd do aquaseal around the outside of the donut patch, and if you're really into it, on the inside like you suggest, although I think that might be a difficult proposition. Aquaseal is probably also a good choice for the pinholes, especially if they're in goofy spots, like near a seam, or other ridge where a patch will be problematic. I've used it with good success on commercially used Vanguards (pvc). It will peel off eventually- I think I got 2 commercial seasons out of my aquaseal patches. If you have many pinholes, it might be worth using something like FlexTuff on a large area of the tubes. Don't sniff too much glue! happy patching.
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Old 05-05-2010   #4
Land of Lovin, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2006
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,449
Tear-aid might work better than Aquaseal - TEAR-AID Repair Products
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Old 05-05-2010   #5
Canon City, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2000
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 426
I just ordered the free sample they send out. I guess we'll see how TEAR-AID does. I've used something similar on a thwart that wouldn't stay inflated on a commercial trip, and it did OK. Stayed inflated for, oh, almost the rest of the half-day trip. It seemed like OK stuff for temporary, emergency use, but as a long term fix wasn't happening. I'll post back after I get the free sample.
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Old 05-05-2010   #6
Albuquerque, New Mexico
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 24
Yeah I'd like to hear how the TEAR-Aid works out. I really don't feel like redoing the donut on the valve so I may slather on some aquaseal and see how it works. Thanks for the replies.
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Old 05-06-2010   #7
Albuquerque, New Mexico
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 24

Here is what I'm talking about with the donut. The foamy areas are obviously leaking. Any suggestions?
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Old 05-06-2010   #8
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 103
Try adding a donut over the existing one. My floor valve did the same thing and this stopped the leak. It was my cheap, low tech approach and I was suprised how well it worked. I had my raft on the Grand for 20 days, pumped the floor once mid-way and it was still solid at Diamond Creek. Give a shot, you can always use a heat gun and pull the donut off if it doesn't help.
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Old 05-06-2010   #9
Canon City, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2000
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 426
Yeah, that's some pretty rough leakage. I still think your best first shot is Aquaseal. The floor is such a tough place to glue to because of the I-beams, the edge of the floor, etc. And in this particular case, to get a donut over the top of the existing donut, it'd have to be 2" or so bigger in radius than the existing donut. That's going to be problematic for you because the edge of the floor is close, the footcone is close, the leafield valve is close, and the junk in between the two valves, plus the 2 I-beams are going to get in your way. Use plenty of aquaseal around the outside, and if it doesn't work, you're none worse for the wear- you can still go back an do a patch over the top if the aquaseal doesn't work. Post more pics of whatever you end up doing- I'm always interested in seeing repairs.

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