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Old 03-26-2014   #51
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Flagstaff, Arizona
Paddling Since: 1990
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 520
"Wear- and Water-Resistant DelrinŽ Acetal Resin
Considered the workhorse of plastics, DelrinŽ acetal resin combines moisture resistance and a slippery, wear-resistant surface with an ability to hold tight tolerances. Also known as acetal homopolymer, it's often used for gears, bushings, impellers, and other parts that require its strength and rigidity." - McMaster-Carr website

"zero tolerance, self lubricating bushing system" Personally, I think Canyon may be reaching a bit here. But, it is great stuff!

The McMaster website does specifically call UHMW Polyethylene "self-lubricating" but not the Delrin.

Just FYI.....

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Old 03-26-2014   #52
Denver, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1993
Join Date: Oct 2013
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Originally Posted by elkhaven View Post
Have you taken your oar locks out in a while? If so have you looked inside this system? I assume that it is two delrin bushings inserted into Al tubing (one from above, one from below) then the bolt on oarlock holds it lightly in place. As B4Otter noted, I've heard delrin touted as being "self lubricating" as well. I suspect this is the meat of their "zero tolerance, self lubricating bushing system". I may simply add a delrin washer underneath my current set up to eliminate all metal on metal contact.

Sawyer sells delrin bushings for about $6 a piece...
Elkhorn , I think that delrin would probably be the quick fix to your setup, I think that chafe on the back of your sl for the rear seat is awesome by the way.

I had the oarlock out after around the 5th trip on my boat, we had some filthy boats so I pressure washed them and hit the oarlock with the pressure washer so hard it was zinging. I took it out to see if it was full of water and to see if I melted anything .

The Oarlock doesn't hold the bushing in ,it is was firmly seated in the tower and it looked like a top and bottom sealing surface internally. The oarlock was bone dry inside and there was no normal patina like you get on brass shafts so far. After that I put it back together and didn't fuss with it anymore. I think the zero tolerance name comes from no play in the lock. these things don't have any play, up ,down, or side to side but spin freely like there is no friction. The bushing is stamped (VICTREX) on the edge?

I will probably re inspect after this season to see what they look like inside.

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Old 03-26-2014   #53
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Flagstaff, Arizona
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Sounds like it might be interesting to try but ineffective cost wise at $140 per foot for 1 1/2" rod:

Do you know the cost of those bushings Riverbound?

Benefits of VICTREX PEEK polymer:
Excellent strength, stiffness and dimensional stability in high temperature and harsh environments
Easy to process and lightweight compared to steel, aluminum and titanium
Low coefficient of friction and high wear resistance without lubrication
Chemically resistant and insoluble in common solvents including acids, salts and oil
Features low outgassing, low particle generation and inherent purity for reduced contamination
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Old 03-26-2014   #54
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Belgrade, Montana
Paddling Since: 1991
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Posts: 1,660
Thanks riverbound, my wife calls it the diaper so I'm glad some one else likes it.

I did install delrin bushings so we'll see how that goes. If I can find just a washer locally I might put one of those on the bottom of the system to finish it out. If not I won't worry about it for now. I just need to get the damn thing into the water...
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Old 03-29-2014   #55
NOCO, Colorado
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Join Date: Feb 2014
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Bacon Fat for the true purest. Eat the remainder
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Old 04-24-2014   #56
Cortez, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2007
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 151
I hate squeaky oars too....and there's some good ideas in this thread....and what I use is a wax based spray for lubing bike chains. You can spray it on anytime, without having to take the oarlock out of the tower. I find that once or twice a season is enough. I just don't like the black stain from the petro-chem products.
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Old 04-24-2014   #57
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Evergreen, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2003
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 446
I was a firm believer in greasing until I heard what GCguide said about grit attracting to the oar locks and creating pretty much sand paper. I thought BS at first but last week I noticed my oarlocks are loose as hell in the mounts. I took them off and sure enough you can see where the oar lock has obviously worn down. I now use dish soap you have to do it more often but i just keep it in my captains bag. Luckily my friend has left his frame at my house for years and hasn't used it so I swapped mine out for his freshies.
Pool and a pond... Pond be good for you.
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Old 04-24-2014   #58
Durango, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1997
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 2
I've used PVC tubing in the past to tighten position the oar lock if the mount isn't the same depth as the oar lock shaft. A little PVC tube cut to about 1/8" ring on the top and more of a tube on the bottom. Seems to keep them from whining so much and from banging when working the oars or when a trainee gets on there and gets all pumped!

I've typically just spit on them in the past as they don't seem to whine when wet from splash.
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Old 04-24-2014   #59
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+ 1 for Bronners'
Wear shoes in the Safety first, then teamwork.
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Old 04-25-2014   #60
Austin, Texas
Paddling Since: 1990
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Originally Posted by lhowemt View Post
Lithium grease, as it is waterproof. Wax is good too.

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