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Old 08-27-2015   #1
Bismarck, North Dakota
Paddling Since: 2012
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 207
Best seat positron for a mini-max?

I haven't finished my frame but have all the pieces so I'm still flexible. Should the seat be in the middle, towards the front or rear?
My trips will be just day trips on the Yellowstone and Gallatin rivers. Maybe a small small cooler, drybay and maybe a passenger. Plus I have double side rails that will be getting decked.

Remember what the door mouse said.......................feed your head.........feed your head
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Old 08-27-2015   #2
oarframe's Avatar
Gardnerville, Nevada
Paddling Since: 00
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 447
Probably More forward than you think, but a lot is going to depend on if you have any extra weight up front like passengers, gear, etc. My 170 lb carcass sits above the front edge of the rear thwart and it still seems stern heavy when setup for solo day runs with no gear. I use the front thwart as a foot bar and stuff my toes under it occasionally. The max will want to surf holes, so I want more weight forward to help it punch thru stuff. Too much in the rear and you'll do wheeleze.

more snow = more water
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Old 08-27-2015   #3
East MT, WestMT, Both sides of the Yellowstone
Paddling Since: 09
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,112
Keeping your weight centered is key in a small boat. Weight forward if your in bigger water. You will need to adjust depending on your intended payload. Small boats are kinda like cats, you need to load correctly or you will lose handling.
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Old 08-28-2015   #4
thinksnow's Avatar
Salida, 81201
Paddling Since: 1995
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 143
As long as your cam straps are long can adjust the frame between the D rings to accommodate the payload and keep you trimmed out. It may just take some trial and error. That boat is a blast and super easy to put it where ever you want on the river. Any pictures of the frame on the boat?
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Old 08-28-2015   #5
Oslo's Avatar
Niwot, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1993
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 58
I purchased a mini max for mainly solo trips. I ended up buying the riverboat works two bay frame and......wheelies all over the river. First time I put on this season it was insane. I couldn't push the frame far enough up to be centered. The seat is welded onto the back bar so it can't be moved. I'm probably going to sell that frame and get something where I can center the seat for solo and slide it back if someone is upfront.
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Old 08-28-2015   #6
Fort Collins, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2013
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 82
I made a frame with NRS parts and the weight of bottom is above the rear thwart. I typically have a passenger, but when I don't I put a large water jug in the front to balance the weight and the payload makes it way less squirrelly. I find it is nice to have the oar locks right in the middle to take advantage of the great maneuverability. That said, when the weight is too back heavy you get to know the holes and shoals real well.
"Ski bums need something to do in the summer, and river rats need something to do in the winter."
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Old 08-28-2015   #7
Whitewater Machine Works's Avatar
Groveland, California
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 31
For solo rowing I like to have the seat slightly aft of centerline. With leg weight/oars etc. it seems to be pretty neutrally balanced this way, feels stable and works well for surfing. The boat is so short, I don't notice that the oars are away from the pivot point.

For taking passengers, the seat bar and foot bar position can be swapped. Throw a cooler/drybox/piece of plywood in the front bay for a seat. Or remove the front bay with a couple snap pins on the side rails, leave the front thwart in and take a couple paddlers. (An extra d-ring is required on each side of the boat to rig the frame this way.)

I don't know how you're doing your double rail setup, but if you're using speedrail or similar fittings you could lay it out this way, swapping crossbar positions as needed.

(The plywood seat was a quick prototype trial for a new setup I'm working on. Setup would be the same for a tractor seat, etc.)

Good luck with the project!
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Old 08-28-2015   #8
Searching for water....., Nevada
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 168
If rocks are as negative as we all say they are, I want my electron forward and my seat positron rear to repel the bloody rocks and avoid pins.

I find that if i don't balance my positron with my electron I can spin out of control, but its all relative.
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Old 08-30-2015   #9
Bismarck, North Dakota
Paddling Since: 2012
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 207

This is what I have so far, just a dry run to figure out how much need to be trimmed. All the pipes were bought long knowing I would fit them to the raft.
The seat is still kind of up in the air. Sitting on hard surfaces is rough on my lower back. When I paddle with my kids I'm sitting on the tube and is comfortable and pain free (I have an AIRE river couch in my living room). What are my options? Thinking about gluing in some patches to attache a thwart more towards the middle.
I think I'll give Jacks plastic welding a call and see what might be.
Any suggestions for seating would be great. Or any other suggestions on this rig. I get 4 maybe 5 whitewater trips a year but hit the Missouri River several times a week this boat is going to get wooden decks, Bimini top, cooler,water canons, payee pirate flag and a squeaky pig.
Remember what the door mouse said.......................feed your head.........feed your head
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Old 09-04-2015   #10
Wolf Hole, Arizona
Paddling Since: 1980
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 45
Looking at your set-up, I would suggest adding one additional crossbar with a welded plate for a seat. Then get a tractor style seat with a low back. The seat back keeps your ass in your seat when your boat takes a hit. The independent seat crossbar can be adjusted forward and back as needed according to your load. Also the thwarts aren't really needed with a small rowing rig and one or both should be removed to make room for more important stuff - like your legs and beer cooler. On my Mini-Me, I added a foot brace bar that I can also adjust forward or back as needed. If all this stuff won't fit in the frame size you now have, get side rail pipes that are a little longer.

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