Mee Canyon climbing - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 08-29-2016   #1
 
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Mee Canyon climbing

I was looking on mountainproject and see there are some nice routes (5.10/A1+) up the towers up Mee Canyon along Ruby Horsethief. Anyone happen to know if there is anything in that area that can be top-roped? We'll be there with a very varied group and was hoping during a layover day we could find something to climb.

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Old 08-30-2016   #2
 
Salt Lake City, Utah
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The towers in Mee Canyon are fairly serious. Tailwagger is really good 5.10 free climbing with a short harder crux that can be aided, but is 4 pitches long. The first pitch of Moon River on the Forward Lookout is not easy. The other two(Arch Tower and the Garston Trout) are most likely unrepeated.

The cragging on the buttress by the river is really good, but definitely not topropeable. Drinking with Gambino could be easily aided if you aren't up for leading 5.10.

I've spent a lot of time nosing around there and haven't found anything that looks like it would be worthwhile for toproping. Desert rock just doesn't really lend itself to that - getting access to cliff tops that aren't huge or total choss is just not easy.
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Old 08-30-2016   #3
 
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That's what I thought but I wasn't sure if there was some small hidden gem of a face somewhere. Guess not
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Old 09-08-2016   #4
 
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Seems to me like you could always find something around to toprope. As long as you can build a bomber anchor and your rope reaches.
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Old 09-08-2016   #5
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColoradoDave View Post
Seems to me like you could always find something around to toprope. As long as you can build a bomber anchor and your rope reaches.
Yea - the "as long as you can" is the key part. 1st you need to be able to lead to a spot that the anchor needs to be built. 5.10 A?. Then you need to find a spot you can sink enough gear in to create a good TR anchor. Then....you need to go back up there, create an anchor you can rap off of or casually down climb 5.10.

That, IMHO is beyond reasonable TR conditions
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Old 09-09-2016   #6
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColoradoDave View Post
Seems to me like you could always find something around to toprope. As long as you can build a bomber anchor and your rope reaches.
There are two other complications that are a big deal in the desert - you need to be able to reach the top to build an anchor, and there needs to be a climbable route.

The buttress above Mee Canyon looks like this:


It is about 400' high. The lower angle white rock is very soft and sandy, and not really climbable without a crack unless it is really low angle. We were pretty nervous rapping off the top of the tower because it is so soft, even after putting in 3 long 1/2" bolts.

It might be possible to scramble around and put a TR from a tree on one of the scruffy short butt crack features, but it wouldn't really be worth the time. None of the good varnished stuff is accessible without leading.

You should definitely consider aiding Drinking With Gambino and TRing that though. It would be as easy as C1 gets, and wit the halfway anchor you wouldn't even need a monster rack of cams. Its a great 5.10 thin hands crack.
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Old 09-09-2016   #7
 
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There's a trail up river from the campsites that takes you all the way to the top of the cliffs in the picture above. It's a bit of a hike but only takes an hour or two.
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Old 09-10-2016   #8
 
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Yea - we camped at mee corner and hiked up to the top of the cliffs then traversed down river. There is some possible climbing at spots but getting to the start of the climb would also be a challenge. Lots of good rappelling. I think we will set that up next time for the kiddos.


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