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Old 04-02-2009   #11
teacher= SUMMERS OFF
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I bought some Gorrilla Tape (from the Gorrilla glue people) and wrapped the shafts. I then heated the tape with a heat gun (industrial stregth hair dryer) to make it adher to the aluminum. It seems like its on there for good, however I need to submerge a oar for a few days to see if it holds. I really like the stuff, I once made a major emergency snow sled repair and attached poles to the contraption using Gorrilla tape and it lasted for an entire 5 day backcountry trip. Anyway, back to the oars, it looks pretty good but now I want to water proof it. I like the idea of the Rhinoliner on top of the wrapping or would marine epoxy work better?

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Old 04-02-2009   #12
Vail, Colorado
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How about garage floor epoxy paint. Truck bed liner is pretty tough stuff. Just try to get it without the grit mixed in.

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Old 04-02-2009   #13
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the trouble with epoxy is that it doesn't flex that well...i don't know how much your oars flex when you pull/push, but it might be enough for the epoxy to just spider-crack and chip off...maybe if you fiberglassed it might work a bit better, but epoxy doesn't really like to stick to aluminum anyway...don't know about adhesion to gorilla tape though.
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Old 04-02-2009   #14
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SE, Wyoming
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Why soak an oar for days? Sounds like you're good to goŚ

Just take it on a trip, with a roll of Gorilla tape in the fix-box.

What's that saying? Perfect is the enemy of good?
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Old 04-05-2009   #15
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billings, Montana
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If you go to your local electrical supply house they can get you shrink sleeves for large electrical cable, it is usually designated in mm. The stuff is incredibly durable/UV resistant and has hot glue on the inside that sets when you shrink it down. It's available in 4' sections and is most commonly made by RAYCHEM. It will cover a wide range of sizes, but it thickens as it shrinks so you might end up too fat for your locks. 4/0 tray cable would be the closest size to carlisle shafts. Maybe you could get rid of the poly altogether and just use the shrink tube?
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Old 04-15-2013   #16
missoula, Montana
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Sorry to revive an old thread, but this is the closest one I've found to my current issue.

I recently came across a set of carlisle oars that have the sheathing COMPLETELY removed. It actually took me a while to figure out that is what they were until I noticed remnants of the sheathing left under the sleeves/

They came with a used frame I bought and the guy I got it all from didn't seem to know any different either.

I guess my question is... what do I need the sheath for?

These are obviously way lighter than my sheathed carlisles, but I am assuming they're less rigid... I just don't know if I need to do anything with them, or if they're suitable for use as-is. There are a lot of good ideas on this thread on how to fix or re-sheath... but I am not sure of the purpose. (<-clearly totally new to oar work)

Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-15-2013   #17
Canon City, Colorado
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I'd say the biggest thing is keeping aluminum oxidation off of everything that touches them and just generally for looks. I don't believe the sheaths give any real strength to the oars.
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Old 04-15-2013   #18
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Kalispell, Montana
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As long as your oar sleeves aren't too loose, go for it.

If you're concerned about black marks, get some vinyl wraps made or use that big shrink wrap.
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Old 04-15-2013   #19
missoula, Montana
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Thanks fellas, that's just what I was looking for.

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