Wedging in a cooler - Page 2 - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 08-11-2016   #11
 
Calgary, Alberta
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 364
I have a 13' RMR with the same stated interior width and I bought the exact same cooler.

I do have to wedge it in. With no thwarts the interior dimension is a bit less.

It doesn't have any noticeable effect on the boat so far. It is funny (visually) that the front of the boat is a bit wider than the back (which is only noticeable when I see how the frame sits on the tubes).

If anything it probably tightens the boat up a bit... and I really love the cooler so I'm happy with my purchase. So many good features and ice holding is amazing.

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Old 08-11-2016   #12
 
Rifle, Colorado
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 51
I have a 12' Maravia and a Canyon Prospector. I did have to wedge it in a bit, but I haven't noticed any excess wear and tear. I will try and post some pictures later. I would highly recommend going with the Canyon, it's a fantastic design.
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Old 08-14-2016   #13
 
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Bozeman, Montana
Paddling Since: 1980
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 496
It will work. I have that same situation with my Spider and had it with my Puma. Sometimes I do have to let air out to get the cooler in but it works well and is held snug. I always run loop straps over.


Jim
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Old 08-15-2016   #14
 
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Flagstaff, Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Osseous View Post
But where will you stash your empties?!

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I call that the "live well" where I keep 'em river cold.

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Old 08-18-2016   #15
 
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at my house, Montana
Paddling Since: 2020
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,396
Hey Bighorn- Thanks for this thread.
We have never been in the market for a "good" cooler. Our Igloo worked fine for us, and we had a seat on a board on top. I always thought that the good coolers were too tall for our setup. Well, we are re-configuring our rigging, we have ditched the seat and can now stand a bit more height above the rail. With our igloo, we'd still need a board because the lid is not sound on it's own. What better solution than to upgrade to a good cooler and we won't need that stupid board anymore!

The drain plug in the center is going to be AWESOME! No more pain trying to open the side drain as it is so hard to get a hand in between it and the tubes. Yeehaw! Better ice storage!!!

There can never be too many cooler posts on the Buzz......
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Old 09-21-2016   #16
 
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lafayette or Grand Lake, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1961
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 562
This is a follow up report. I got my 12 RMR with a drop stitch floor, Canyon prospector cooler 103 qt. Spent most of the day designing the frame. What I now know is the cooler fits perfectly with a little shoving (put it in before inflating past 1 lb). The distance from the top of the floor to the top of the tube on a drop stitch floor is 12 compared to the standard floor of 10. To the top of the frame 13 5.8 (perfect fit). No discernable width difference on tubes after wedging. More to come later. Thanks for all the advice from everyone.
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Old 09-21-2016   #17
 
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Hampden, Massachusetts
Paddling Since: 1999
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 203
Looks really nice. Really nice. I think the tight fit will help firm up the raft. Jealous a prospector cooler doesn't wedge into my super puma. Stuck with the tall canyon 75, which I love, but needs straps below. Maybe canyon will make a mini prospector 60 or something
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Old 09-21-2016   #18
 
Denver, Colorado
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 177
Hey, aren't those Canyon coolers the ones that used to be Saturn coolers?
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Old 09-22-2016   #19
 
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Summit County, Colorado
Paddling Since: 92
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Posts: 99
Im assuming you have used pvc for a frame before? How long does it last? Are you only using it on mellow floats? Or running class 4? Just a mock up to figure what you want made later? Im very intrigued. looks great!
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Old 09-22-2016   #20
 
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lafayette or Grand Lake, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quiggle View Post
Im assuming you have used pvc for a frame before? How long does it last? Are you only using it on mellow floats? Or running class 4? Just a mock up to figure what you want made later? Im very intrigued. looks great!
I buy the pvc, make a mock up, return all the joints for refund and save all the pipe for the next time. Costs about $20-$30 to do a mock up before doing a build from 1.66 OD aluminum pipe. The mock up you are looking at with a foot bar and oar locks final cost will be about $400 including shipping. It helps me plan and visualize the final product. I will post final photos and costs when done.
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