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Old 11-02-2013   #11
North Creek, New York
Paddling Since: 1997
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 51
Floor Plan

I was going to coat the sheet with spar varnish after I heavily sand the edges and holes. I was going to mix some sand in for the cockpit area. How long should I allow for that to dry? Does marine plywood need to be sealed?

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Old 11-03-2013   #12
prescott, Arizona
Paddling Since: 1982
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 276
Originally Posted by natepelton View Post
I Does marine plywood need to be sealed?
i'm sure someone here is an expert about the actual atomic makeup of marine plywood but my experience with it is:
it's still plywood.
7 ply instead of 5 ply, better exterior surface, maybe better glue, fewer and smaller voids but,
it is still wood.

i hope that give's you some perspective. i wanted it to be some magic material, myself, but it's just wood.



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Old 11-03-2013   #13
prescott, Arizona
Paddling Since: 1982
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 276

too much talk about wood in am!
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Old 11-03-2013   #14
Florence, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2001
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 180
Prob with spar urethane is when water gets under it, it still peels. H&C makes an additive called SharkGrip that can be put in any material for grip. I use it on steps for grip, both interior and exterior. Whatever you use, get good materials.
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Old 11-03-2013   #15
fairplay, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1999
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 12
Spar varnish is the way to go. Sand the plywood before the first coat, let dry for as long as you can (at least over night) sand the varnish with a fine 150 grit sand paper and repeat as many times as you can. The nice part is if it scuffs you can just sand it and put on a few more coats. Make sure you leave a hole in the floor for your valve!
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Old 11-03-2013   #16
Wondervu, CO, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2001
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 390
Patio paint will hold up much longer than spar. Look at the can, you will see that spar is not rcommended for below water line. The alkiline patio paint is formulated for exterior wood and concrete patios.

In my experiance, spar needs 6 or more coats to seal and needed to be touched up every season. The patio paint took two coats and has lasted for over three years with out any maintainance.

The 'marine grade' in the plywood just means....

1) void free, the knots blemishes are punched out and filled in both the outer and inner layers. (look for the little 'footballs in the plys)
2) a water resistanst glue was used.
3) number of plys varies with thickness and manufactor, 7 ply is stiffer than 5 ply.

The plywood must be sealed, especially the end grain that shows up in the edges. The pores in the wood act like little straws and suck water deep into the plys. Epoxy can be used to seal the edges and holes, the slow set stuff soaks in deeper. A hair dryer will help to thin it out.

I prefer a slot over a hole, less material removed. Just make sure you leave at least 1.5 X the hole diameter at the edges for strength ( ie. a 1" hole needs to be at least 1 1/2" from the edge. Cut your hole or slots big enough to pass the buckle, not just the web.

Poorly sealed plywood will start to delaminate in a 7 day trip, based on my foolish efforts. If you are going to float for 22 days you need to seal it up good!
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Old 11-03-2013   #17
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Evergreen, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2003
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 446
I wouldn't over think it too much I use oil based min wax from ace but I do sand and restain it every winter. Gives me something to do in the winter and takes about 30 minutes. Your cock pit floor is going get the most wear and tear. My beaver tail and front hatch boards last for ever because they are always covered. I cut my holes so the buckle cant go through then you arent losing straps down in unrechable areas. I've wondered how one big board would work let me know what you end up doing.
Pool and a pond... Pond be good for you.
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Old 11-23-2013   #18
Clarno, Oregon
Paddling Since: 1992
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 22
Try Restore for decks and patios. One gallon does 50 ft sq. already sanded and waterproof.
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Old 11-24-2013   #19
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Kalispell, Montana
Paddling Since: 1997
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,436
If you use epoxy, thin with 10% acetone and it will saturate deeper. It does weaken it, so this isn't recommended for a structural application, but we're using if for its sealing properties here.

You can also warm it in the microwave to thin it, but remember this decreases its pot life and accelerates cure time. Do this only with medium cure epoxies or slower--or use the hair dryer after application!!

Epoxy thickened with silica fume would add a lot of abrasion resistance inside holes and around the edges. Saturate first with unthickened, then coat with a 'peanut butter' consistency mix.
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Old 11-25-2013   #20
West of Boulder, CO
Paddling Since: 1996
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 96
Was thinking of trying this to coat my new decks:

Grizzly Grip

I think someone on this forum mentioned it. Anyone have experience?

"Nothing says dirtbag like a mylar pillow with a spigot."
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