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Old 04-28-2013   #31
slamkal's Avatar
vancouver, Washington
Paddling Since: 1996
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,146
Originally Posted by BilloutWest View Post

Do you have oars where you can change the 'button/collar' location?

Or just grin and bear the balance change?


I would think the longer oars also for any upcanyon wind days. Regardless of draft.
Is that out to lunch?
I never did a trip longer than 7 nights, so no need to. If you count food consumed minus weight pooped its probably 100 lbs lighter at the end of a trip

I ran 11' oars (no C/b) on a MFS at 2.1' last August. No issues with hitting the oars against boulders, being too big, or not efficient enough rowing.

The water can always take all the force i can deliver. Its comfortable and feels right. A lb or two of counterbalance would be nice. Maybe epoxy a stack of washers down the shaft

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Old 04-29-2013   #32
2kanzam's Avatar
Charleston, West Virginny
Paddling Since: 1996
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 461
I just wanted to chime in with my somewhat unconventional set-up and all of your posts had me really re-thinking my oar length this winter. I was given the set of 10’ oars that I have, so I had just figured I’d deal with it or cut ‘em down if I had to for either my 14ft Hyside or my 14’ Revolution which are both virtually the same size.

I have a 60” NRS stern frame, I believe 6” towers (could be 8, I keep meaning to measure) and I’m 5’9”. Most of the formulas say I should have 9-9.5’ foot oars for my set up (BilloutWest’s first one actually works out to 10’). And given my frame the 10’ oars can’t get too close to the 2/3 to 1/3 “rule” so I counter balanced them with 2.5 lbs on each stick.

With the counterbalance running a stern rig it is quite comfortable for me. I was just looking closely this weekend while on the water and I would be hard pressed to lose 6” off the length without adjusting my stroke to make the blade dig deeper….I’m guessing that these formulas typically don’t account for the tube’s kick for a stern rig….and I don’t think too many of you run a stern frame, so I guess that is making the difference?

My most unconventional set-up is when I’m hauling gear. I move the stern frame up to where the seat is about where the rear thwart would be. The seat part of the frame sits up on a wooden bench I made which puts the platform the frame sits on at 5 ¼ in above the tubes and the seat is about 7-ish inches above the tubes (basically 2 “pillars” made of 2 pieces of hexagonally cut 2x8s stacked on each side-with a single 2x8 spanning those pillars and the width of the boat)

3 Waterproof barrels are suspended from under the bench off the floor and it gives me a nice flat surface on top to strap a dry box and tackle box to that makes getting into them easy. A cargo carrier is suspended from the back of the bench to the rear and rear/side d-rings and my cooler and extras suspended in a single bay in front of the captain’s bay. The single cargo bay stops short of the front thwart, which I leave in place, because the GF likes a cushy place to sit.

This all keeps the geometry pretty close to the stern rig geometry so I don’t have to adjust anything and 10 foot sticks still work fine for me.

Someday I’ll post some pics of my hillbilly engineering.

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Old 04-29-2013   #33
Redmond, Oregon
Paddling Since: 1973
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,031
Originally Posted by 2kanzam View Post
With the counterbalance running a stern rig it is quite comfortable for me. I was just looking closely this weekend while on the water and I would be hard pressed to lose 6” off the length without adjusting my stroke to make the blade dig deeper….
I would expect none of these formulas correlate very well with the high seat stern mount.

Two primitive thoughts. Beat me up.

Rowing more vertically has drawbacks. Shallow water or hidden hazards in mirky water.

In a more normal captain's height going to shorter oars can mean some rock avoidance and easier shipping. Understood.

But one loses not just leverage with shorter oars. The arc of the shorter oar is tighter and it covers more degrees of the circle with the same range of movement by any given oarsman. That is bad.
A greater portion of the time the shorter oar is pushing somewhat away from the boat and not in the optimal, there is that word again, right angle to the boat.


Does any oar manufacturer put out a blade like the grooved flippers?

I'm just wondering about being able to use a smaller blade because water is held some and not allowed to slide off the sides as much.

Just asking. I don't even know if my reasoning on any of this post is correct. Just my mind wandering.

I have feelings too so go light.......

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