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Old 09-10-2014   #1
washoe99's Avatar
Helena, Montana
Paddling Since: 1988
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 55
Drybox Hanging Tab Height ?

I have a few new dry boxes without tabs to hang them with. I found a local shop to weld the tabs on but I'm unsure how far down on the boxes.

I also have two new engel 123 deep blue coolers (ouch $ but I will now have ice for more then a few days).

My thought is to have the coolers at a height that I can access the latches and then base my drybox height to match the coolers so everything is flat. When I do that I come up with the tabes at 5.5-6" down from the top of the boxes which seems pretty high given that the boxes are 18" tall.

If it helps everything is hanging on a 6 bay NRS frame in a 16' diminishing tube Maravia (previously known as the Orange Beast)

Anything I missing or lost on?


Sent from my cat while running the Upper Lochsa

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Old 09-10-2014   #2
MT4Runner's Avatar
Kalispell, Montana
Paddling Since: 1997
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,436
Really depends on top of frame to floor height when your raft is floating.

I measured mine on a paddle one time and found that for my AIRE 156R that's about 12-13".

So your measurement sounds reasonable from the bottom, as well.

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Old 09-10-2014   #3
Canon City, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2000
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 427
I like everything as low in the boat as possible. So, like MT4 suggests, I would measure up from the floor, to the top of the frame. I'd give *maybe* an inch between the bottom of the box and the floor, possibly less. But, I'm not that worried about pinching the floor between the box and a rock- some are.
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Old 09-10-2014   #4
Andy H.'s Avatar
Wheat Ridge, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1995
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,909
One thing to take into consideration is that if you're concerned about the box rubbing against the floor, you should measure the depth from the top of the frame to the floor when the boat has a load in the water.

Good luck,

Nothing in the world is more yielding and gentle than water. Yet it has no equal for conquering the resistant and tough. The flexible can overcome the unbending; the soft can overcome the hard. - Lao Tse
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Old 09-10-2014   #5
washoe99's Avatar
Helena, Montana
Paddling Since: 1988
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 55
Good point. Thanks

Sent from my cat while running the Upper Lochsa
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Old 09-11-2014   #6
2kanzam's Avatar
Charleston, West Virginny
Paddling Since: 1996
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 461
To expand on Andy's point...."boat in the water" makes a big diff.

IIRC, I have about 3"-3.5" of clearance from the floor when my boat is on land (when I was building it), but when it's floating that gap closes to about 1.5"
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Old 09-11-2014   #7
I'm right 50% of the time
brendodendo's Avatar
Paddling Since: 1977
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 857
Use 6ft NRS Loop straps under your coolers and dry boxes for a trip or 2. This will let you adjust their height / depth on the fly and let you play around with frame configuration. When you are comfortable with your setup, get the NRS cooler mounts and weld on tabs.
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Old 09-11-2014   #8
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,136
Cut strap slots in the tabs BEFORE welding.
Great to be able to cam strap just the tab without strap over the drybox that has to be removed for opening.
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Old 09-11-2014   #9
caverdan's Avatar
C. Springs, Colorado
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,443
fwiw.....I have two boxes with tabs. One is at 10" and the other is at 12". (Measured from the bottom of the box.) The one with 12" tabs was designed to be used with 2" diameter pipe and the 10" one was designed to be used with a 1" pipe frame.

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