Do R1? Is it possible? How? - Page 2 - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 08-15-2016   #11
 
Eagle, Colorado
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Best technique I've found is to get your belly on the front tube and forward paddle from there. Doing J strokes from the regular guide position is way too tiring.

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Old 08-15-2016   #12
 
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I appreciate all the responses, and I am serious about how effective the R1 could be.

That video has me sold.

My plan is to R1 over nighter's like the salt, etc... With my gear. I think it will be easiest way for me to go.

I will try out some day trips and see how it goes, I think I'm going to start with Shoshone.
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Old 08-15-2016   #13
 
Minturn, Colorado
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Let me know when you head out to Shoshone, I'll fire up some r1 in my mini max with ya. I also found that r1 at a playwave is a good way to get a feel for boat control, propelling your boat in current, dump trucking, and the rotisserie.


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Old 08-15-2016   #14
 
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Post Falls, Idaho
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The video dosent answer a lot for me, I find that my paddlecat is fairly predictable to r1 in moving water, and rapids. I simply can't paddle it across pools. This may be exaggerated by how well the boat turns even compared to the small rafts.

I am familiar with the J stroke but it seems to take a very demanding j stroke to keep it straight. I have had better luck just holding my blade in the under current. I hope I can figure it out as it seems like a lot of fun.

I've tried to find some resources online describing techniques with little success.

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Old 08-15-2016   #15
 
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Boulder, Colorado
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I fail to see why you'd give up the power of a pair of oars, unless it were for a highly maneuverable boat like say, a kayak.

Maybe if a lot of portages were expected.
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Old 08-15-2016   #16
 
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Post Falls, Idaho
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Simple because I have a Ford focus with a company gas card. No room for frame and oars, I'd be fired if I strapped stuff on the roof. Plus I'd just like to be able to do it, for those times I have a swimmer.

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Old 08-15-2016   #17
 
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Denver, Colorado
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Sounds like a good cause! However, r1 with much weight is no fun. I'd go as light as possible, which is probably already in order due to the smallish company car. Obviously not having a frame makes securing gear a pain. I'd install a few extra d rings and get a net if your running a small raft or get a airtight inflatables dry bag which is made to fit shredder size boats.

Have fun! Practice with a empty boat and play with prying off the tube at the end of a stoke, I like to j stroke with a pry. Ultimately working with the river is key.
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Old 08-15-2016   #18
 
Minturn, Colorado
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http://youtu.be/569045LN51s


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Old 08-15-2016   #19
 
Indianapolis, Indiana
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https://youtu.be/V_O-MflnFn4
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Old 08-15-2016   #20
 
Salida, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Frank View Post
I fail to see why you'd give up the power of a pair of oars...
Because frames and oars are not only heavy but also clunky to schlep around. They are not necessary everywhere.

In my commercial days, my way to deal with the summer doldrums was to see how FEW paddle strokes I needed to call from my passengers. I never counted them, but I swear I could get a 6 load from fish bridge to the railroad crossing with under 30 strokes, probably less. The de-rig was easier to boot. I've R-1ed the kids and their friends through class 2 with nobody else paddling many times. So ya, R-1 is a viable option, even with others aboard.

Yes the J-stroke is hefty in a R-1, but this is not a canoe. The technique I use in place of a J-stroke is more of a lever where the tube of the boat is the fulcrum, as K2 describes. I also sit off the very back of the raft rather than on a 'hind quarter'. The farther away from the center of the boat you are it is easier to spin the boat. Sitting toward the middle gives you more forward/backward leverage.

In R-2 we would more often run in a diagonal position rather than side by side. This allows to spin on the dime while maintaining capability for efficient forward/ backward movement.

There are lots of ways to skin this cat.
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