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Old 08-07-2016   #41
 
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Niwot, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sledhooligan View Post
Do not just replace a bearing without replacing the race with it. Unless a hub is damaged from a full on bearing failure you don't need to replace the hubs.
Napa should be able to measure the seal and bearings and get you what you need.
Have you ever done a job like this? You need to know how to pack the bearings with grease and adjust preload.
Ummm....I know..isn't that what Sherpa9543 along with a few others have said?

Nope - never done it before but I've done a lot of other wrenching so I'm pretty sure I can figure it out. Google/youtube is my friend.

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Old 08-08-2016   #42
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I had a catastrophic failure with my trailer that made me very careful about bearing maintenance. I felt a thud and saw my tire passing me. I had gone to Napa and they sold me the closest match to repack my bearings the week before.

I then replaced the axel and bought extra parts. Napa had an exact match and I have been able to buy new seals and regularly repack the bearings. No need to replace the race if the bearings are the right match. I wouldn't wait for the other to fail. Old grease is contaminated and should be replaced.
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Old 08-08-2016   #43
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gremlin View Post
I had a catastrophic failure with my trailer that made me very careful about bearing maintenance. I felt a thud and saw my tire passing me. I had gone to Napa and they sold me the closest match to repack my bearings the week before.

I then replaced the axel and bought extra parts. Napa had an exact match and I have been able to buy new seals and regularly repack the bearings. No need to replace the race if the bearings are the right match. I wouldn't wait for the other to fail. Old grease is contaminated and should be replaced.
The OP was actually started from the fact that I had grease coming out of the hub. Other than that, it spun freely, had almost no play in it and was without issue.

I decided to dig into it to see what was causing the grease to come out - something I still haven't figured out.
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Old 08-08-2016   #44
 
Denver, Colorado
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My utility trailer with 15'' wheels is 5 years old and doing fine, I think..I put a few hundred miles a year on it...I have not touched the bearings, but don't get the wheels let alone axles in the water....what should I be doing for bearing maintenance and how to learn about it?? thanks, Chet
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Old 08-08-2016   #45
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CROE View Post
My utility trailer with 15'' wheels is 5 years old and doing fine, I think..I put a few hundred miles a year on it...I have not touched the bearings, but don't get the wheels let alone axles in the water....what should I be doing for bearing maintenance and how to learn about it?? thanks, Chet
Bearing maintenance is pretty easy lots of YouTube videos. Basically wash the bearings clean and repack.

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Old 08-15-2016   #46
 
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Final thoughts on the job:

I just wrapped it all up this weekend. To summarize, I pulled both hubs, took out the races and replaced the races, bearings & inside seal (castle nut and cotter pin too, but just because it came with the kit). So - notes on the job:

  • All bearings and races replaced were USA Temkin - seems like there is a difference between these and some roll-the-dice China made ones
  • Cleaned everything with degreaser & brake cleaner
  • Spent quality time packing the bearings
  • Hub spins freely with tire with no play in it (side to side)
  • Cleaned and replaced bearing buddy
  • There was substantial grease in the hub (between the bearings) that seemed due for removal - just putting more grease on with the bearing buddy wouldn't have solved this
  • Used quality marine grease for everything
If I were to do it again.....


They make new galvanized hubs with quality bearings (you can even get them pre-packed). I'd probably go this route as my wheels do get wet from time to time - but still, probably nothing close to seawater wet.


The whole experience gave me a much better understanding how it all works and I'm glad to have done it. The toughest part was getting the old cotter pin out as it was too big for the spindle and took close to 20 mins to get it pulled.

Takeaway: These parts are the life blood of your trailer. The wheels/bearings/hubs/tires are the most likely failure point so putting time into properly maintaining them is well worth it.
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