Trailer hub question - Page 4 - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 08-07-2016   #31
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spencerhenry View Post
the race is not "part of the hub".
a race is pressed in, or driven in with a mallet. drive the old one out with a hammer and a punch.
Yea - after writing that I watched some videos and then look back at the hub and realized that those races are just pressed in. It's just that from first inspection it seems like they are integral to the hub.

That being said - they look like they are in perfect condition and I'm just going to replace the bearings and seal.

Thanks for the tip on the bb and putting the hub back on the spindle. The sheer volume of grease that the bb allows to be in the hub seems like an issue as it accumulates over the years. I'll continue to use the bb but will probably still pull the hub every few years to clean out ALL of the old grease.

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Old 08-07-2016   #32
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I'd recommend replacing the races as well. Our Napa out here carries SKF bearings, and they work great. The place I work also carries SKF brand bearings, so I have installed lots of their bearings in all sorts of applications. You will want to rent borrow or buy a bearing race installation set too.( I know our O'Reilly auto parts out here loans them) They are designed to install the bearing race without damaging the wear surface. You can also use the old bearing race as an installation tool, but it takes some care. The bearings I take apart on vehicles and trailers typically have one issue, corrosion. I don't see many bearings that just look worn out, I almost always find rust pitting on a wear surface of a wheel bearing that lead to the failure. I'm a firm believer in making even a cheap bearing last by keeping it good and lubricated. I also think you can junk a good bearing by not keeping in lubricated. It sounds like you are on the right track.
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Old 08-07-2016   #33
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Read_N_Run View Post
That being said - they look like they are in perfect condition and I'm just going to replace the bearings and seal.
If your replacing the bearing......you need to replace the race too. When cleaning old bearings, make sure to get them back in the same race they came out of.

The bearings and races make wear patterns you can't sometimes see with the naked eye. If you mix them up, they wear out quicker due to the different wear patterns being introduced to each other. If a new bearing goes into an old race, it's not going to be a smooth ride for the new bearing. Trust me...I use to be an A&P mechanic.....replace them both.

Once again.......Always replace bearings and races as a set and don't get them mixed up when repacking them. Buy your parts that you depend on.....like wheel bearings......from NAPA. They sell quality parts and will try and get you whatever brand you want.

Edit to say....Learch and I posted at the same time....I agree that SKS bearing is a good brand to go with
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Old 08-07-2016   #34
 
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All good stuff...you guys rock.

Ok. If I'm going to replace the races too, at what point it it just worth it to replace the whole hub that comes with the races and bearings as a match.

And yes, I know the bearings I buy will come with races.


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Old 08-07-2016   #35
 
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It comes down to whatever is cheaper and/or more convenient. If you don't have the tools or know how, it might be better to go with the whole set up. If your cheap like me and have done it before.....I replace exactly what's needed.....if it's cheaper that way.

I doubt your going to get Timken bearings in a cheap complete assembly.

As far as your question on when to replace the hub. When the race doesn't fit tight when you drive the new one in.....it is time to replace the hub. Last thing you want is the race to spin in the hub.
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Old 08-07-2016   #36
 
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I started this thread with a blow-by-blow so why stop now

Can't find any place locally that has everything in stock - bearings, oil seal, races, etc. So, it looks like I need to order it online. That means I've been asked "by the powers that be" to move the trailer out of the garage. I slapped the hub and bearings back together with the old ones without any grease. I figured all I need to do is roll it out of the garage and across the street - and I can do that without grease and a oil seal.

When the bearing kit comes in, I'll be pulling the races as well and then putting it all back together. For the other side - I'll have a look at how it is as well and may or may not replace the bearings on that side. I'm guessing the only issue on the other side is that it's got some really old grease in there from when the trailer was first put into service.

Side note - I found a faint "made in china" on the bearings that I pulled out so I assume it will be an upgrade to timken from the current bearings.

Once again - thanks to everyone for their help in this project and I'll follow up once the new parts are in.
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Old 08-07-2016   #37
 
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Wow, I thought it was hard to get things in bozeman... This should have been a simple fix, bummer it was such a hassle! Go have a well deserved frosty cold one.
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Old 08-07-2016   #38
 
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If you replace the bearings REPLACE the races also. I learned this one the hard way. You cannot be positive that one make of bearing/races dimensions will match what you already have inside. I put a new bearing inside of old races that had a slightly different pitch (unbeknown to me at the time) made it about 100 miles and the new bearing was thrashed. Luckily I made it to my driveway to find this out, but I wasted time and $$ trying to cut a corner.


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Old 08-07-2016   #39
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sherpa9543 View Post
If you replace the bearings REPLACE the races also. I learned this one the hard way.<snip>
Yep - will be replacing the races as well. I'm just glad I didn't remove the current races since I had to put the hub back on in order to move the trailer temporarily.

As soon as the parts arrive I'll be stopping by O'Reilly to borrow a race setting kit.
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Old 08-07-2016   #40
 
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Do not just replace a bearing without replacing the race with it. Unless a hub is damaged from a full on bearing failure you don't need to replace the hubs.
Napa should be able to measure the seal and bearings and get you what you need.
Have you ever done a job like this? You need to know how to pack the bearings with grease and adjust preload.
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